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      Huge thank you to Bellingham based The American Alpine Institute for being our sole sponsor, taking care of our hosting costs,  which is our biggest cost.  @Jason_Martin  of AAI reached out to me, and really wanted to support the forums.  They have supported us in the past,  and now stepped up to support us again.  They will be our sole sponsor for 6 months.   Big time, and they are a local climbing related company to boot!  


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About Soulken

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/18/1979


  • Occupation
  • Location
    Lynnwood, WA
  1. Kautz 7/12-14

    We are looking for a third climber to climb the Kautz for a 2 or 3 day trek starting on 7/12 or 7/13.
  2. Leavenworth 9/7-9/9

    Something alpine anytime Wed-Fri. Mt Stuart/complete N ridge, Aasgard Pass/Acid Baby, or a long one in Darrington like Holy Greyell (Friday looks good for the latter). kbdyer@gmail.com
  3. Cascade Alpine Rock Partner ?

    I'd be in to climbing one of those with you. I have Tues-Friday off this week. Ken kbdyer@gmail.com
  4. Dragontail or Prusik, Car to Car 9/19 or 9/20

    You find somebody? I'd love to do a lap up backbone. kbdyer@gmail.com
  5. Rebel Yell

    Thinking to drive up to lone fir campground tomorrow or Sat night, c2c the sucker the next day. I'm up for multiple objectives or another good singular climb in the wa pass area if the air quality is okay. kbdyer@gmail.com
  6. I've never been up Ingall's and think that'd be fun. Otherwise w ridge of Stuart, which I have, car to car tomorrow if there are any takers. Please hit me up. kbdyer@gmail.com
  7. Acid Baby

    I'm looking for a solid alpine climb (and partner) Weds and/or Thurs this week. Acid baby sounded fun but something else at WA pass would work. Send me an email if interested. kbdyer@gmail.com
  8. Yosemite April 28-May 5

    Looking for a partner for the RNWF of half dome-perhaps with one night on a ledge. Some other multi pitch climbs like Steck-Salathe or the E butt of el Cap sound mighty fine too.
  9. Spitballing ideas here: orbit, S face of Prusik, 3 o'clock rock Darrington, anything at WA pass. What's your pleasure? Sat, Sun or both (9/27-9/28). I've got the gear and can lead to 10s.
  10. Coming from Tacoma, I'd like to crag one or two days around Index to 10s. If Beacon is better, let's do that. I was thinking Slow Children or Dodd's to Dastardly, respectively...or whatever's clever, your preference. Thanks!
  11. partner needed, anytime 8/25-27

    I happen to have Mon and Tues off. If you haven't found a body, I'd be more than down to do something cool at WA pass.
  12. Index Thurs 8/21

    If anyone has the day off (or just the afternoon), and has the itch let's hit it! Leading 9s and 10s. I actually haven't quite finished Lovin' Arms but I'm down for whatever.
  13. You're absolutely right. Very philosophical. That is a good attitude to have. That's what headlamps are for anyway I suppose.
  14. Trip: Enchantments - Dragontail Backbone Ridge Date: 7/7/2014 Trip Report: We climbed this beast on Monday starting from our base camp at Colchuck Lake. The company consisted of 4. I lead on twin ropes with Abraham (asong from CC) following. Yeum and Carmen came up behind also on twins. Mostly we climbed as 2 teams of 2. However we fixed a few pitches for the 2nd team, where our least experienced member climbed so slowly it added hours to the day. Permit in hand, we skipped up to the moraine. Having had climbed Serpentine a few weeks back with Esther Cho, we found crampons and axe weren't necessary for the soft snow; this time I figured a pole apiece would suffice (good to have for the descent too). The start of the route traverses laterally left along a tree line. We pitched the entire thing out so the climb would take our group all day. After the leftward tx, we scrambled upward and right, making our way past the 5.6 corner and to the base of the off width. This 2nd offical pitch was definitely one of the highlights and I thought fun as hell. Chimney technique worked for the first part. Then, as advertised, the crack widened, the nubbins on the R face grew more scare, and some off width moves came into play. I walked a c4 #5 a ways, then a c4 #6 quite a ways. I was glad to have both. We hauled packs on one of our alpine ropes. Abraham trailed the 2nd team's rope, where we fixed the pitch for them. Yeum ascended employing a tibloc method. Carmen brought up the rear, I can only imagine cursing and struggling the whole way. Some fun finger cracks immediately followed. I went R of a roof, avoided the end of another off width. Next was easy 5th all the way to the loose R trending gully at the base of the fin. The first fin pitch was the psychological crux of the climb for me. I had heard there were some twin cracks above but I couldn't see them. In hindsight I think I should've face climbed more on faith to reach them. Instead I started perhaps too far L, taking a lichen laden path with some less than perfect rock. I only went there because initially it looked like better opportunity for pro. The finish of that arete was indeed exciting. Once on the next big ledge the route became more obvious where a pitch or two kept on the L side of the fin. Stellar crack climbing eventually brought me to the R diagonal foot tx. Sweet exposure here took me to the crest where I belayed from a horn. At this point I debated entering the triple couloir gully on the back side but decided it was too early to bail that way. Further up I found that gully too chossy for my taste anyway. So I dropped back onto the fin going up diagonally again until a wider crack topped out at the fin's upper R crest. The rest was mostly 4th to the top. We descended Asgard with a little help from the moon. All in all a satisfying day despite the ample downtime waiting for the 2nd team to catch up. Gear Notes: Rack: (Burly) set x4 offsets, double c4s .4 to #3, #5, #6, stoppers, trekking pole, 2 liters H20, our own backbones Approach Notes: Don't go up too far. The start is easy. The ridge is gained from the left. Plan it out before you get too close to the wall and can't see the route.