Woodcutter

Hi, Can anyone recommend a good (high r value) closed cell, or similar sleeping pad. ie NOT an inflatable that can puncture. It's for alpine use, so I'll probably cut it down to a 3/4 & put my feet up on my pack. Many thanks Jake

Yup, that's the thing, Don't fall. The rope helps for peace of mind when you're a few 1000' up feeling exposed. So my formula would be a 60 or 70m rope with a guy at each end and one in the middle. If there is a piece between each guy, that means one picket/ screw/ fluke every 100'. So 6 pickets will get you up 600' before the leader needs them back, and you'd want a belay to bring the other 2 guys up to to gather the gear back. Assume you make the belay from axes, the leader has to carry 6 pickets. Personally I'd solo it, but the rope is nice to have. Thanks Jake

Sounds good. I'm worried about one fall taking all 3 climbers off and the snow/ ice protection being too weak to hold 3 climbers. I don't have a lot of faith in pickets unless you T them in (which takes time), and good ice screws are rare on those mellow angle routes. Would you require the leader to sink more pro?? I reckon this is the way to go, but it means the leader has to carry & place more gear which slows the whole show down. Thanks for the reply. Jake

3 of us climbed N Couloir of Buckner last oct, perfect conditions but we had to pitch it rather than simul because I don't know how, or even if it's possible to safely simul with 3 climbers on snow/ ice. Do you do it? How do you do it? Any thoughts most appreciated. Jake

That's a really great website, thanks everyone for the input. Dane, appreciate the offer but right now I'm not ready to buy anything, just checking out what exists and how well it works. Seems that the boots one is wearing dictate the ski-ability of the setup. Watched a friend carry his alpine boots dangling off his pack nearly 15 miles a few weeks ago while we skiied into the Cirque of the Towers. Seems there should be an easier way. Thanks again for the info. Jake

Can anyone point me in the right direction....... I need to know what bindings work on alpine or mountaineering boots for approach skiing on full length backcountry skis? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jake

Ha. Respect.

Excellent photo's, you can really see the snow terain, corinces etc. Cool Jake

I'll forgive you for not climbing the peak grit, but next time, the North Wales Slate Quarries. Or I'll have to take you there myself. Jake the Gyt

That's just what I needed to know. I posted a beta-request on Supertopo: Reports of 250% snowpack & conditions 'pushed back one month' have led me to re-think the Sierras. Might just have to do a ski tour and embrace the gigantic snowpack http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1512478/High-Sierra-beta Thanks Curtveld, nice reply.

Looking for conditions reports & some advice about where to head in the Sierras in mid June? Looking for long multi-pitch rock routes, with multiday traverse options if possible. Read about Matterhorn, Incredible Hulk etc, which look good. And Bridgeport is closer to the North so shortens the drive from Seattle. Any input would be really appreciated. Climb around 5.10, got 8 days. Thanks Jake the Brit

Yes - excellent - that's it. Any other recommendations would be great, but I will probably throw dawn for the NF fission unless (like Yoda said)...... there is another. Ha. Tanks.

I'm on the hunt for a light (below 3lbs) synthetic sleeping bag. In the 15-20 deg range. I've looked at the Mountain Hardware Lamina & Ultralamina & they look reasonable. The Mont Bell burrow-bags seem heavy, but I've not looked at them. Any insight or recommendations would be great. Thanks. Jake

Would any of you old hands feel like spilling the beans? I know where starbucks is, and REI, and Mt Stuart - but where exactly is that good granite & ice?

ah yes - I know that feeling, the one where you don't want to split 10 miles in to start climbing. I do ride a split, but do not own a sled - I have thought about it but couldn't handle the mechanical breakdowns on the cheapie sled I'd end up with. I did think it may be easier to get hold of the CleElum snowmobile group and throiw down some cash for a tow into wherever you want to ride & then skin out at the end of the day. ...then again, those long slogs in do keep you on a wholesome vibe. Where are you thinking about sledding into?

Thanks. Gonna try some boots on & hope la nina gets frosty sometime soon.

Boreal Kangris. They are a little heavy to be trying to climb technical mixed (1400g each boot) and you really know when you've spent a couple of days in the cascades. I like the look of the stiff Evo Superlights but was really trying to find something that might still climb alpine rock in the summer too. Tall order I know. Any thoughts appreciated.

Looking for a lightweight boot to climb mixed routes & day ice - W3 maybe W4 Is the sole stiff enough on the Trango S Evo (the red one). If not, any recommendations - I have big 3lb winter boots already. Thanks