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xhen

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Posts posted by xhen

  1. I was by FF for the first time a few weeks ago. I'll usually buy from REI cause it's like leasing gear. Return something for something else. They didn't have the crampons I wanted (Sabertooth Pros) and I knew FF would. Sure enough. I ask a few questions, got great service, walked out with some 'pons.

     

    I also bought a BD nut tool and asked at the register if I could go pound it into a crack at Index. That got a laugh.

     

    My brother ordered a bag and got excellent service. Props to FF. If I had more money, I would've been browsing the sale a bit more...

  2. Actually, I found reliable natural protection on garfield[for the difficulty of the climbing]

     

    I've heard, and seen from topos, that it isn't just a straight bolt ladder sport climb and needs some extra gear. Yes? No?

  3. Our boy Colin Haley posted up over on his blog: http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/. Has photos from when Garibotti chopped bolts, and then we he and Garibotti went back and did some more. And Colin has had some coversations with Lama.

     

    Best line of the blog:

    So this, apparently, is the much-anticipated courage and vision of gym climbers applying their skills to the mountains.

  4. My first time climbing at Vantage, my brother goes, "You know sobo, on CC?" My reply, "Yea." He says, "Read up on why he doesn't climb here anymore."

     

    Suffice to say, I have the utmost respect for sobo and dwell on that story each time I'm out there.

     

    In other news, it's awesome that you want to get your facts straight on this story!

  5. Dust, dryness and wind primarily, also very problematic if one is working in any kind of construction or industrial application.

     

    I got caught in a crazy sandstorm in China one time and I found out real quick that this is true. Definitely cursed having contacts, which I normally don't.

     

    I dream of getting LASIK done someday.

  6. Nice pics all. Looks like a great day out! Xhen, that first pic with you approaching is looking directly at "Kiddie Cliff", looking not worth it in it's current shape.

     

    The second pick is a close up of the first, once we got up there. Glad it's familiar to someone :)

  7. Was also up in the area on Saturday. We were the only morons wandering around without flotation. Saw some good sign. We went up to check out this section. Looked better than most! Wasn't long by any means. Never got higher than my axe as the trees above us starting raining snow on us pretty regularly. Then we realized we had one helmet between us. Another day.

     

    And next time we'll bring snowshoes.

     

    IMG_4855.JPGIMG_4859.JPG

  8. non local guide book authors suck

     

    I know prezwood pretty well and have climbed with him before. Great guy, great climber.

     

    Not saying retro bolting is cool, and some of his friends even call him out in the thread.

  9. I'm originally from AK and used to ship a pallet of stuff to and from college. It's not too bad.

     

    Boyer Barge Lines (Northland Services) or Alaska Marine Lines (AML) are your ticket. They both have offices in Seattle.

  10. My wife had a problem with her ankle after an accident and went to see him. He did some surgery and things are good now! She now works at the clinic he's at and he's comes highly recommended. She's picky as heck about her doctors, so that's saying something.

  11. You could get *really* lucky and get stuck at Muir with a group that hauls up a keg of beer. That's how one crew passed the time up there last weekend. Fortunately, someone remembered the tap.

     

    Are we talking full keg or one of the smaller ones? I can remember working in a restaurant and TRYING to move both sizes (ok, I WAS 16). What does one of those suckers weigh?

  12. BTW, on a totally separate note does anybody know any guide service does a 2 dayer on Suhksan sulphide... I saw a group doing a course up there when I went for a solo walk upto the base of sulphide a few weeks back, but I can't seem to find anything other that a 4-5 day that must be fisher chimneys

     

    RMI does some Sulphide Shuksan. I think they do a 3-4, but the first few days are the "how not to kill yourself" days.

  13. NOAA is calling for more snow over the next few days. We went up on Thursday and were postholing up to our knees, getting worse as we went. We saw avvy sign near Hot Rocks. Keep an eye on the forecast and snow levels. At this rate, Hood may be in for quite a while :)

  14. We made an attempt yesterday. Got up just before Hot Rocks and finally called it. We'd post-holed in 0 visibility for hours and were exhausted. Hard crusty snow, low visibility. Our water bottles froze with the wind chill.

     

    Did see some avvy sign near Hot Rocks and beyond.

     

    Gonna try again sometime, hopefully when things settle out!

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