Posts posted by xhen
I just wish you wet-siders would call the area by its actual name (Frenchman Coulee). There's actually no climbing at Vantage that I know of - not even choss-fests. Do you say you're going to Terrebonne when you're actually going to Smith? Vegas when you're going to Red Rocks? etc. etc. Frenchman coulee (not "Vantage") IS a wonderful place to climb, especially during the cooler months.
That's Freedomman Coulee. 'Murika!
i couldn't make glasses or contacts work w/ the outdoor lifestyle and after countless years of tears, finally contracted w/ a nice socialist surgeon to cut open my glazballs and shine a real bright light in there to make'em right
Any issues with this in the backcountry/altitute/whenever? I'm a corrective lens wearer, and for years would wear my contacts (Now the Acuve Oasys) multiple days. Few years ago found I just can't do it anymore. After a night, one of my eyes just starts to feel grainy and hurt. So now I just carry case, small solution, and glasses (back at camp).
But, I dream of Lasik every day. Someday.
I have two Attache 3D and I can't get over how awesome they are. I've determined that I will slowly (they are expensive) buy more. They are the ones I reach for all the time and am sad when I've used them all. I am in love with them. Light, smooth operation, tells you if it's locked visible.
Orthopedic Physician Associates at Seattle Swedish does sports medicine. Wife used to work there and has been a patient there. Dr. Manke is legit for foot/ankle
Still at Kirkland Costco. Comes out to like $4.29/ea, 4 types. Couldn't con the wife into it, and my season has been a bit slow.
And while you're there you can get enormous amounts of Kirkland brand hard alcohol!
Yeah I would take the god-forsaken talus over the dead-fall extravaganza of the creek anytime.
I just remember heavy pack, baking sun, seemingly endless hopping, jumping, scrambling. But I think our positive memories of the way out was largely due to snow covered dead-fall. Ah well, good on ya.YMMV. We took the talus in to the Ice Cliff Glacier last year, and the creek out, and found the latter much preferable.
We did the same, ventured into talus on the way out once, realized our mistake, dropped lower and picked up speed (and more post holes).
The talus seems to be the preferred route. Perhaps next time i'll bring trail runners...
Nice! We were up there over Memorial to look at stuff, eyed this route, but didn't feel we could move fast enough. The approach was a bit fun--yet we couldn't figure out if the proper way was the cairns over the God-forsaken talus or the bushwhack near the creek?
y'all with State Farm - did you get your policy *after* you had been climbing? If so, how long has it been since you've had your policy?
I've started to look, and the best I can tell, restrictions eclipse after the policy has been in effect for 2 years. BUT, if you climb, and you don't declare it, and you die climbing within those first 2 years, I suspect that there would would difficulty making a claim.
It also appears that State Farm makes a distinction between rock climbing and mountain climbing. Although I don't think they know enough to ask it specifically, if you die on a glacier within the first 2 years (and you don't declare mountain climbing as an activity), *and* they can prove you had in the past done some glacier travel (ie, mountain climbing), it seems like there would be problems making a claim.
Has anyone else run into this, or is it just me b/c I opened my big mouth? (fortunately, I just asked over the phone. no applications have been filed)
State Farm, after climbing. They asked me an inordinate amount of questions, and I made the gal asking ask her manager a few clarifying questions. Asked about gear and crap. They do differentiate between rock and mountain. The only thing that it made different was the cost. My premium is insane compared to my wifes. But I've already told her, if she eats it, I'm going on a climbing trip with my brother to mourn.
They didn't mention restrictions eclipsing after two years, but they did say if I don't climb for a calendar year (Which may happen in the future), I can get it removed. Then if I climb after, I'm still fine. I guess. When that time comes, I'm going to make sure my ass is still covered if i finally punch the ticket.
I'm with sobo. Declare it, be honest, otherwise they will screw you when you really don't want to be screwed.
I read thru my State Farm Policy and didn't see anything that excluded climbing related deaths. Suicide, war, etc. weren't covered, but climbing wasn't listed. Rates were very reasonable.
Should add I have State Farm too. And i'm covered if I take a whipper and deck or if I eat it in a crevasse or avvy.
Did the same thing last year. Had a lot of people scoff at it, but bottom line is, if I eat it, I want my wife to be taken care of.
Through my insurance company, they said if I don't climb for a calendar year, the added clause gets removed and lowers the price substantially. I can then climb after that, and it won't affect the premium. I figure it'll happen sometime.
I do know that American Alpine Club has a partner that offers life insurance. I never looked at rates, because I saw it right after I signed my policy. I'd say check that out, and perhaps other folks have some ideas.
Partner and I were over near Deception for our first time out this season. My brother heard of a SAR call at 38 and was calling/texting me trying to make sure it wasn't us.
Didn't see/hear anything, so I figured it was off near Far Side area.
Hope she gets better soon.
I've got a bunch of these and also really like them.Mammut Moses. Lighter than the Classic Wiregate, and still "almost" full size. Very skinny, great for racking cams.
+1. These are boss. Good price. Gotten most of mine second hand for even better price.
Awesome, thanks Dane. Always appreciate your input.
Make sure you throw it in on the dyer on high for 15 minutes or so to get full value from it.
But a great piece to replace a soft shell as long as you aren't dragging them against rock. The Nano will be warmer, lighter and easier to dry out. The Nano makes a great mid layer or an outer layer.
Some lengthy discussion in the gear review forum recently with e the Nano as part of a winter clothing system. More on the Nano specifically on the blog as well.
I don't want to get off topic too far, but I'm curious about this comment. I use a nano pullover in my layering system (base layer + r1 + nano or whatever. I'm a patagonia whore). I suppose my biggest concern on putting the jacket on high is melting it? But would it increase loft? Is this good practice for synthetic jackets (I only own a FF Daybreak jacket I usually use for around camp. Too warm for this area most the time)?
Any word on who's carrying it? I think Westcomb and Rab, if I remember Dane's stuff right? I see that the new GTX stuff is being carried by Patagonia (at least it's better to H2Crap) and others. But, I'm a Polartec (and Dane) fan and have been eyeing this for a bit...
Word on the street (from NOCA in Marblemount) is that the NPS is going to require bear canisters starting soon in the Cascade Pass/Boston Basin area and perhaps elsewhere.
I guess we need to stop reporting bear sightings and clean up any bear scat/paw prints we find.
There's a saying in the old country: shoot, shovel, and shut up
That first picture is so awesome.
I was going to ask how many books you read, but you answered that .
Way to get after it ! I'll look at your pretty pictures from my home office...
Not to mention how does a tourist feel when he wants to go hike and he can't because he has to go to some local hardware store for a pass, there is no way for the unsuspecting tourist to pay on the spot.
Way to stick it to the man/the tool/pine fuzz, etc.
Was out at the Far Side parking lot at x38 on Monday, and they had a drop box with envelopes for the $10/day fee. Haven't been anywhere else where it's required, but in at least one spot, you could do fine.
Anyone know if that guy in the chi-mo van parked near the USFS road turn off needs a pass? Does he have some sign taped to his forehead?
My brother has: http://www.montbell.us/products/disp.php?cat_id=61&p_id=2303179. Un-lined, but super light.
A similar thread on MountainProject (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lightweight-compressible-wind-shirts/107131469) led me to the Camp Magic Jacket: http://www.camp-usa.com/products/apparel/magic-jacket-1668.asp. Used it last weekend and dig it. I did get it on super sale.
Mikey won in my book with his awesome stuff in the Yosemite Nat Geo article.
Alpine - Approaching Liberty Bell
Scenic - Lane Peak
I talked to a party that did the SW Couloir on Friday. Said it was pretty sketch and spotty as far as snow was concerned, making it a little exciting.
Was up there on Friday. I'm super jealous you saw goats . Great job!
The Zodiac with a twist
in Climber's Board
Posted · Edited by xhen
I first learned of these guys, mainly Craig, when Chris Kalous interviewed Craig on The Enormocast. Unbelievable story, and Craig tells it well. When it posted it was May, and they were gearing up for June/July rematch with Yosemite. Freakin awesome.