yasso1am

Trip: Pan Dome - Mount baker Ski Area - Pan Dome Falls Date: 11/24/2010 Trip Report: What a great Thanksgiving - truly a lot to be thankful for. Spent the morning climbing Pan Dome, and the afternoon skiing. As far as Pan Dome is concerned, was able to place six 13cm screws, with one of those screws girth hitched with about an inch still out of the ice. Probably could have placed another screw or two, but only had six 13s and I don't think I could have gotten anything longer in. Some of the placements felt like good ice, to sugar snow, to good ice - so they were questionable. Fun was had. The scariest part was topping out into the terrain trap that is the gulley above the climb, my partner remote triggered an 18 inch soft slab above me. I definitely recommend rapping the route with two ropes if you do it the next day or so, instead of walking it off. Here is a crappy cell phone picture I took from Chair 2. I'm sorry about the quality, I know it is horrible but it was all I had and it is better than nothing. Gear Notes: Six to eight 13cm screws. Approach Notes: Behind the top of chair 2.

No idea on the conditions. If someone has a positive forecast though I would be happy to come down and climb with you guys. Cheers.

Oh that sounds good. We heard the first thunder, waited about 30 seconds, and then heard the second thunder and decided to bail. We were maybe 150 feet from the top but it was still shrouded in clouds and all we could see was the fog billowing up and building in the thunderhead. Basically what I'm trying to say is, our weather, 1/4 of a mile away, was worse then yours. That's right, I made it a competition.

Cool, what is the W. ridge of the STS like? Pretty similar?

Yeah, it was a Sunday and we knew they probably wouldn't have ripped the bridge up while we were gone. Also, we knew the road looped around so we weren't too worried. Saw a ton of cars at the gate before the uphill approach, yet we were the only ones on the West Ridge of the Twin. Didn't see anyone else all day. Where did they all go?

Trip: North Twin Sister - West Ridge Date: 8/29/2010 Trip Report: This route has been profiled before, just giving you some useful beta for the next few days. Coming from Glacier, off Highway 542, the bridge is closed on Mosquito Lake Road right before the turn onto FR38. There is a road block and a back hoe blocking the road. Can be circumvented with a smaller vehicle. The bridge is solid, just the guard rails haven't been put up yet. It's probably clear by now. We just really wanted to scramble... Gear Notes: Approach shoes, bikes for the descent, and a small car. Approach Notes: Hit Mosquito Lake Road from the Acme side (south) instead of Glacier to avoid this road block.

Haha, that is awesome.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2444316&id=21723138&l=f1b7f8fb24 Follow for more photos of the climb for conditions. I was on the route with alpinweiss and his partner, great party to share the route with. Some of the photos are credited to alpinweiss and his partner.

Get what Randy recommends to you. A) It will make his life a bit easier and B) he knows what materials fit his style. Randy is a good guy and makes solid packs. You won't go wrong. Way to support your competitor! I really respect your neutrality, even though Randy is one of the few people up there making pack's like yours. For sure picking up a Cilogear after this one. Thanks for your input crackers. Will probably be talking to you soon.

Hi guys and girls, I'm looking for a partner(s) for the month of October to come climb with me. Places I'm looking to hit: The Sierras for long ice couloirs Joshua tree because I've never climbed there Red Rocks for long, quality grade IVs and fun sport climbing I have a vehicle, although I am open to many transportation methods (ride share, hitching, your vehicle, buses, etc.). I'm open to hitting other climbing areas as well, and essentially want a little taste of everything (alpine, sport, long trad). So yeah, if you're feeling motivated and would like to join me for a month of climbing, shoot me a message. You're also welcome to join me for only part of the trip, or shoot me a message about anyone else looking for partners in that time frame. You can be more or less skilled than me. I'm happy to learn and follow someone, or to lead the whole time. I rock lead at 5.9 to 5.10- on gear, 5.11ish on sport, and am mostly comfortable on WI4 ice. Hope to hear back from someone soon. Maybe we can climb in the Cascades and see if it will work out.

Second ascent also usually has some in stock.

Let's be honest here, I'm going to end up with both a CCW and Cilogear pack at some point. On paper they are both fantastic packs, and in the field both have been tested and excel at what they do. I guess I'll just have to take the time (and money) to find out which one does more for me. I think I'll probably go with the 500d w/ spectra grid for the CCW pack, and then when I get a Cilo gear I will let them pick the fabrics. Crackers seems to put a ton of different materials on each pack (a combination of all the fabrics above) so I'm assuming he has an idea (understatement) of where each fabric is best suited.

Kurt, I was going to say, "shouldn't you be in the field?" but I figured you would respond, "shouldn't you be handling registrations!?" Anyway, Randy over at CCW has been super helpful and has given me all the tech specs on the fabrics. He certainly has first hand knowledge, I guess I was just looking for more input from other users on their experience with the fabrics. Cilogear makes some wicked looking/featured packs, but I haven't used one yet. I guess I was sticking with CCW because I bought one of their packs on a fluke and ending up loving it. Tough choice. I'm assuming crackers works for/is Cilogear then?

I am not going to pro deal a pack because I'm going with a Cold Cold World pack and they don't offer pro deal. Yes I know I could probably pro deal 2.5 packs for the same price I am going to pay for the CCW one, but I like Randy's packs and I believe in supporting the little guy. (not meant to start a flame about little guy vs. big guy and all that crap). So because I'm spending a little more money for a custom pack, I figured I would pick the most appropriate pack. I fully expect this to last me many, many seasons. Thanks for your input.

tl:dr - looking for opinion on following fabrics for packs: 500d Cordura w/ Dyneema Ripstop/Gridstop 1000d Cordura XPAC Ripstop Nylon VX21/42/50 series fabrics The Full Story: I am working on building a custom alpine pack for "extended" trips in the cascades and I am having difficulty choosing the fabric for the main portion of the pack. I will be using this pack mostly for trips 5-6 days (65 liters) and it will be used as a guiding pack. Durability is by far the most important, but seeing as I will be carrying extra group gear (large first aid kit, etc.) light weight would be nice. Also guiding will be on anything from basic snow and ice to alpine rock and cragging. Here is what I know about the materials. 500d Cordura with Dyneema gridstop: very abrasion resistant, tear resistant, puncture resitant, water resistant, moderate weight 1000d Cordura: Everything above + more, including weight XPAC Ripstop Nylon: Don't know much here, appears to be similar to the material below. VX21/42/50 Series: Amazing tear and burst resistance, however not that great on abrasion. The lightest of the four fabrics. Again I am looking to get the most life out of this pack as possible, while keeping weight in mind. If you have other fabric suggestions I am open to them, but please do not suggest Non-Woven Dyneema or something like that. As I said I will be using this for guiding, that should tell you something about my financial situation. Thanks in advance.

Check this one out: http://www.camp-usa.com/products/ice-axes/alpax-special-hammer-100402.asp The red grip slides up and the pinky rest folds away. Also comes in an adze model. Additionally Grivel made an Air Tech Evolution with a sliding pinky rest that was pretty awesome. Their new model includes a stupid leash, but find an old one and it will work.

Hey I'm new to the area, sorry if I'm using this section incorrectly, but was interested in checking out a few routes on the Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth. Anyone been up there lately? Is there snow up to the base of the climbs? How about the ledges? I would like to head up there this weekend/Monday (to avoid crowds?) Thanks in advance! -Andrew