g orton

An update on the Acker Rock Monitoring this September 3 and 4. Friday, Sept 2: Camp at Ash Flat Campground or an alternative campsite if Ash Flat is not available. Plan: who ever gets to Ash Flat will pay for and reserve 2 campsites in the campground. Directions: Drive to Tiller Ranger Station. From the Tiller Ranger Station cross the South Umpqua bridge and turn right onto Road-49. Stay on road 49 heading north along the South Umpqua for about 18 miles. Ash Flat campground will be on your right next to the river. If no sites are available the next option will be a remote campsite on Buckeye Creek. Drive about a mile upriver from Ash Flat campground, before reaching the South Umpqua Falls swimming hole to Road-29 (Buckeye Creek Road). Turn right from road-49 onto road-29 and follow road-29 for 0.6 miles to the first bridge crossing buckeye creek. Just before crossing the bridge you will see a side road blocked by boulders on your left that access two remote campsites next to the river. If this site is taken the next option will be a dry camp on the 800-spur (there is no road number sign). To locate the 800-spur continue up Road-29 (paved) to Road-2839 (there will be a sign directing you up the 2839 to Acker Rock Lookout). Once you've located the 2839 turn around and head down Road-29. The first road you will come to from the junction of Road-29 and 2839 will be the 800-spur (right side). Follow the 800-spur until Acker Rock comes into view where you will find some camping areas to the right under the trees. We'll plan on placing a sign at the turn off where camp is finally set up. If you are coming from I-5 your last cell phone reception will be from the town of Days Creek. Saturday, Sept 3: Drive to the trailhead and hike into the Acker Rock Lookout. From there we will make a short climb (5.6) to the end of the Peregrine Traverse, rappel down the chimney, scramble up to the false summit where the register is located, and then rappel and downclimb to predesignated rappel points along the south ridge. We will then make 60m rappels down the southwesterly side of the ridge counting the buckwheat and the distances down then placing the next rappel anchors and repeating until we reach the main walkway were we will regroup and walkout. My hope is that we will be able to make several rappels down both the Southwest and Southeast sides of the ridge. Equipment to bring: Drills, 12mm bits (I have 5 extras if anyone needs to borrow one), accenders, Motorola walkie talk(s) I'd like us to rappel in teams of two so please bring a partner if you can. Let me know if you still need a partner. We can also use more climbers without drills to help out as well, so please pass this along. Thanks, greg

The closure at Acker has been lifted.

The Peregrine on Acker are fledging later than expected this year. Therefore we are rescheduling the rappel monitoring to the first weekend in September. Sorry for any inconveniences. greg

Jamie, We're deffinitely interested in your help. I'll ask Dave for your number and give you a call. greg

I'm trying to get out the word that we are helping to organizing a rappel day to inventory a rare buckwheat that has only been found on Acker Rock. Anyone with a drill to place bolts on rappel with in encouraged to join us on July 16 and 17 or the following weekend depending on when the Peregrine closure is lifted this year. Rappels will range from 300 to 600 feet. You will see some great views of a lot of yet unclimbed rock. If interested, please contact me at gorton@q.com

Yesturday on the Umpqua Old Man - Old Woman Tyrolean, Spring 2011.

Spring 2011, a new season. I'll start this thread back up. Chris, nice report on your climb up Old Man on the Prize. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1018254/TR_Old_Man_The_Prize_5_21_2011#Post1018254 I'll pull the poison oak out at the base of the Prize again when I'm up there next weekend. In your email, you asked about the gate to the Callahans. It is still open and we are still driving gear in on Saturdays and Sundays. After March 15 it can close at anytime. Usually they will start locking the gate on a weekday or lock the lower gate and leave the upper gate unlocked until everyone is out. That said last year I got locked behind the gates on a Sunday, so you never know. Your safest bet would be to drop people and gear off at the top and have someone drive back and park your rig at the lower gate. But, they will be missing the true Callahans experience of the walk in that offers a great morning warmup and for me, a badly needed spring workout.

Gary, As I understand it, Rick Brittsan was a Yosemite climber who settled into Roseburg in the 80s after he was diagnosed with cancer. He saw potential at the Callahans and before he passed away he and Harold Hall establish several first ascents and a vision. Here is another one from Old Man. The first Tyrolean between Old Man and Old Woman, August 1980.

Winter in the Callahans Harold Hall exploring Lizad's Ledge, New Year's Day

Gerry Kirk may be able to shed some light on the history behind this scratch of paper since his name is on it.

fgw, Double check your photo of the Old Man register. I think the photo may actually be from the top of Old Woman.

Bill is right on. The Access Fund's effectivness in Oregon can only be a reflection of Oregon climbers williness to be involved. If I was to make a list of areas in Oregon that I'm aware of that the AF has had some level of involvement it would include: Madrone Wall, Beacon (pseudo OR), Pilot Rock (Rogue), Greensprings, McKinley Rock, Acker Rock, Callahans, Youtlkut Pillars, Williamson Cliffs (Klamath), and The Menagerie. I'm sure others are aware of other efforts up North or the east side over the years. Just last week I was on the phone with them on access issues to The Menagerie, Williamson Cliffs, and Peregrine monitoring. http://status.accessfund.org/ Other local efforts such as Adopt A Crag Days offer effective ways to begin advocating for your area http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.5000889/k.166C/AdoptaCrag.htm Adopt A Crag Day is an easy way for ANYONE interested in donating their time to a crag. While the AF officially only has one Regional Coordinator in OR they also afiliate with several organized climbing groups in OR http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.5052157/k.4F44/Whats_Happening_in_Your_Backyard.htm, and then there are behind the scenes more cloak and dager conections with OR climbers that help represent that rogue climbing element that has always been a part of Oregon's more remote and lesser known sites. They have a strong Grants Program that has beeen very responsive to funding needs at our smaller crags in W OR. http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.5023595/k.98A2/Grants_Program.htm I encourage everyone to become a member to help support climbing as a self-managed sport. Your donations will help support AF efforts at both the State and National level. http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.4992345/k.BC76/Mission_and_Vision.htm

MEMBERSHIP: https://www.kintera.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.4917803/k.BEA7/Join/apps/ka/sd/donor.asp?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=4917803&en=kfIKISOuG5IFLNPnGbIOJZPIJjLOKYPuFeIPLTMxHcJOKaK This is a plug for becoming an Access Fund member. Most climbers would be supprised by the amount of behind the scene advocacy for rock climbing that goes on both Nationally and in Oregon. Our ability as climbers to continue to self-manage climbing in our local areas is no accident. I think most climbers would be supprised at how many ongoing issues there are currently being address in Oregon. And, you may be supprised by what a long process it becomes to resolve or mitigate these issues. Over the past 20 years the Access Fund has played a critical role behind the scenes of Oregon climbing.

I don't think I would incourage making the 3 hour drive down from Portland for winter climbing in the Callahans. That said, the absolute best time for climbing here in the winter is when the cold heavy valley fog has set in. The heavier the fog the better. How many days does it take to dry out? Faces with south aspects like Lizard's Ledge dry almost as soon as the sun hits them. Three days of sun is a safe bet for other less south facing walls.

Great we need a campsite in the valley. Where did you find land? The weather was great last week until Saturday night. On Friday we found three new cracks to climb in the Callahans and on Saturday spent the day with students on Acker. I posted a photo from our Acker trip above.

Or boulder on the coast? Keep an eye out for the King Bolete. Saturday, Nov. 7 was a perfect day on the Peregrine Traverse. On the top of pitch 2 even found a bunch of Matsutakes Mushrooms. Fall climbing and Chanterelles!!

For anyone braving the climbing on the west side, the changing weather has brought out the Golden Chanterelles this week.

Justin, Glad you had fun on Eagles Dare! That is a fun route, especially at night. http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Oregon/Southern_Oregon/Acker_Rock/Eagles_Dare/ greg

Drederek, I doubt the gas station attendent was a climber or he would have given you directions. Guides for the Umpqua are sold in Eugene at Back Country Gear, REI, and McKenzie. In Roseburg at While A Way Books on Harvard St., in Ashland at the Outdoor Store, in Medford at the Gym. The Callhans have just over 200 routes spread out over about 2 miles so it's not to hard to find the place to yourself. The rock is a fine grained sandstone of sediment from the Idaho granitics.

Thanks, Bill. That brought back memories or the first time I saw BB King at the Mira Mar in Montecito, just after I got out of the hosptital from my first sking accident in early '70s. Back in the days when short skis on the hill, leashes on surf boards, and cams in cracks (early '80s) were considered cheating. The room he played in only had about 10 small cocktail tables. He played to each table, it was an incredible show. If you ever get down this way that offer for the Ripple still stands.

No problem, Bill. You can even try our high octane home made Ripple made from our hand picked Thompson Seedless. greg

Being fall, if you are visiting the Callahans, this is also the best time to visit some of the winerys in the area for wines that are just coming out. Especially this year. Hillcrest Vineyard (http://www.hillcrestvineyard.com): When you're coming down Callahan Rd from the upper gate turn left (north) onto Elgarose Rd (about a mile before coming to Melrose Rd). Take Elgarose to the top of the hill, then turn left onto Vineyard Ln where you will also see the sign to their tasting room. Melrose Vineyards (http://www.melrosevineyards.com): Heading north (more or less) through Melrose at the store turn left onto Melqua Rd and drive about a mile or less until you see the Melrose Vinyard on your right. Cruz Farms (http://www.krusefarms.com): Just before you turn from Melrose Rd onto Garden Valley you will see Cruz Farm's outdoor market on the right side of the road. This is the place to get fresh sweet corn. The only way the corn could be any fresher is if you pick it and eat it right at the stalk. which they would probably let you do if you asked. Reustle Vineyards (http://www.reustlevineyards.com): If your heading back to Eugene instead of turn right at Garden Valley Rd into Roseburg, take a left heading northwest on Garden Valley. Just after MP 12 turn right onto Cal Henry Rd. Drive this road up into the canyon were you will take your first left through an iron gate and down a steep hill to the tasting room (10:00-5:00). They offer a wine pairing that I recommend. Henry Estate Winery (http://www.henryestate.com): Continue north on Garden Valley Rd to where it crosses the Umpqua River and dead ends into Hubbard Ck Rd. Turn left onto Habbard Ck Rd and drive 1000 feet to where you will see Henry's on your right. Lighthouse Bakery (http://lighthousecenterbakery.com), closes 6:00pm (4pm on Sunday). From Henry's head the other direction on Hubbard Ck Rd past the Garden Valley Rd bridge. Hubbard Ck Rd will become Fort McKay Rd and the Sutherlin-Umpqua Rd. You will stay on this road until you come to I-5 at Sutherlin. But, at the jct of Fort McKay Rd and Tyee Rd be sure to stop at the Lighthouse Bakery. I wouldn't recommend visiting four wineries in a single trip, but if you do you'll probably want to stay the night in Roseburg or River Forks Park (where the N and S Umpqua meet)in which case you'll want to visit McMenamins downtown at the railroad station.

Access is again open to the Callahans after a short closure for fire season. The upper gate is open on Saturaday and Sundays, sunrise up to sunset, and typically remails open until March 15 (consistant with hunting season in that area). If this year is like past years the lower gate on Touchstone may or may not be open at times, so I recommend entering and leaving throught the upper gate. After March 15, hunting season ends and you run a higher risk of being locked in.

I think you're over thinking this when you start dictating webbing at rap anchors as an ethic. Personally, every rap anchor I origanlly placed has been slings, but only because I'm cheap. When I'm at a slinged belay anchor that I don't know the history of I cut the original sling and leave a new one. To suggest other wise is foolish. I do agree that webbing can be pretty mainky and still be strong. I've rappelled off some very bleached white and crusty webbing in the past, but I've never particularly felt any honor in doing so. I do encourage anyone that climbs any routes I've set to leave as much chain or new webbing as they like. The only thing I really promote as an ethic that when it comes to leaving slings is that they be neutral in colour.