g orton

Photo from this weekend on the TURKEY MONSTER with Plaid (Portland), Logan Wetherell UO, Benedict Springe UO, Willie Long SOU, and Ray Williams (Roseburg).

Sunrise in the Callahans.

Some beta on the Peregrine Traverse. There has been a lot of confusion added by people's descriptions over the years. I recommend Acker Rock descriptions in Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2, Umpqua, 2007 Mtn N' Air Books. Park at the gate to the lookout road. Hike the road a 1/2 mile to the climber's deer trail which takes you into the Sun Bowl (map, pg 43). Over the years someone has cut out most of the down trees that have fallen across the trail, it has been well flagged, and there is now a clear foot trail into the Sun Bowl. Pitch-2 (50+ m) use slings to extend the length of your quick draws and reduce rope drag taking this pitch all the way to the ridge. I don't recommend clipping the belay in the middle of the pitch, it only adds drag. These are the top anchors to Sinister Footwear (.10a, 50m). Once past these anchors continue straight up for two bolts. From here you can continue straight up to the ridge or traverse left passing either below (.7-) or above (.6-) the tree (Topo D, pg 52) using the cracks for protection to the top of the prow out at the very end or the ridge (variation P2c) and one of the most picturesque belays (2 bolts) on the route especially in the fall. Pitch-4 (5.5- with a couple new variations). Once you've made the down-climb into the saddle (Topo E, pg 54) you have three options for accessing the shelf at the base of the headwall of pitch-5 (Topo F, pg 55). Once in the saddle your options are: 1) scramble around the left side and up to the shelf, or 2) as you move around the left side of the corner look for a semi-crack where you can place a cam (Metolius N0. 4?) for a single .7- move with a scramble to the top, or 3) as shown in Topo E take the lower wall head with 2 closely placed bolts protecting a .8- crux then scramble. [WARNING: If you come off your will deck just from the rope stretch. Unless your comfortable on-sighting .8, consider repositioning your belayer to the saddle.] Note: contrary to most uniformed descriptions I've been reading over the years, once you've started pitch-5, unless you really know your way around the rock you are committed until you've reached the base of the chimney on Pitch-9. Pitch-8: down-climbing scramble from the register, down into the saddle, to the base of the dirty chimney. Do not rappel of the punky Doug-fir at the register. For one it is going to go one of this days, there are ants, it is dirty, and there is a much better way to go. Refer to description for Pitch-9 pg 54. From the register (top anchors for Black Magic) scramble out to the end of the ridge approx. 30 to 40 feet, down climb the right side approximately 8 ft to a short trail that contours into the saddle. There have been enough people on this route that it has become a fairly obvious path when you see it. It is possible to place gear on the down-climb. Once at the chimney you can rap off and bushwhack up to the lookout, but I recommend the chimney. People really seem to enjoy it even though begins a little dirty at the bottom. Once on top, belay from the small tree or continue and belay at the final rappel at the end of the ridge. (Disregard the two anchors back in the crevasse from the tree, they are for something else). The final rappel. No matter how many times you do this rappel you'll find yourself whining about it. But there is a trick to it. As you lower yourself over the lip there is a hole for your left foot to step in. Then rappel to the base of the large Doug-fir on your right, NOT FARTHER. From the base of the Doug-fir pack up then follow the scramble trail up through some madrones and to the lookout. If there are people renting the lookout be sensitive to how they may accept your intrusion into their world. 99% of the time they will be excited to see climbers and will want to visit, but be sensitive to the 1% or less. Note that there is a rare buckwheat that is only found on Acker Rock. It is grayish green in color and you will see it all along the Peregrine Traverse. Also, I have yet to be on the Peregrine Traverse and not see at least one Peregrine. In the spring and summer you will see them shooting up using the updrafts just to the left of Pitch-5, and in the later summer and fall they will usually be seen staying low over the tops of the trees below you. On our climb in November we were able to watch them scrap with a bald eagle. Last note for anyone considering climbing the route with multiple rope teams. In November we added an option at all belays where needed so that teams can work back to back.

Menagerie Access Alert! click on blue (above)to go to the access alert or green (below)to obtain more information Please help us to voice our concerns. More information on this closure.

Menagerie Access Alert! click on blue (above)to see access alert or green (below) to obtain more information. Please help us to voice our concerns. More information on this closure.

Can't talk about the Menagerie without bringing up current public access issues. There is currently a seasonal Falcon closure at the Menagerie. Unfortunately, I was unable to capture the photo below so have borrowed it as an example of how Falcons have begun to pop up more and more as they continue recovery after being delisted as Threatened and Endangered almost 15 years ago. FALCON NESTED IN TREE Peregrines are an important part of our climbing environment at the Menagerie. It is important we respect a "reasonable" seasonal closure of the "primary nesting management area" each season until "two weeks after the young have fledged." Unfortunately, closures at the Menagerie are not reasonable and have become a national poster child for unreasonable Peregrine management. We are still encouraging interested climbers to take the time to read more on this issue and send a response to the Forest Service. WARNING: The information I've provided under the cascadeclimbers ACCESS FORUM is at least three beers worth. So assign a designated driver before leaving your tree.

Sorry for late response, I've been out of town. Currently the Forest Service is in the process of developing alternatives to their original proposal to expand the seasonal closure in Keith Creek drainage. These alternatives will be in response to issues raised by your comments. They are still taking comments! I encourage anyone who hasn't commented to do so. US Forest Service - Menagerie Closure

The Forest Service is interested in knowing where there are potential problems with how information is being generated and used by the Agency. The following is intended to provide anyone interested in helping to red flag this or similar issue of generating and using bad information within Forest Service. USDA Forest Service Quality of Information Guidelines http://www.fs.fed.us/qoi/'>http://www.fs.fed.us/qoi/ Request for Information Correction under the Information Quality Act: http://www.ocio.usda.gov/policy-directives-records-forms/guidelines-quality-information/correction-information Where to Submit a Formal Request for Correction Formal requests for correction of USDA information must be submitted by letter, fax, or e-mail to the Information Quality Official(s) of the USDA agency or office that disseminated the information (henceforth in these procedures, the term "USDA agency" shall mean "USDA agency or office"). For requests for correction concerning information on which USDA seeks public comment, submit the correction request during the comment period. Quality of Information/Peer Review Officer USDA Forest Service George Vargas, Data Quality Official Mail Stop 1143 1400 Independence Ave. SW Washington D.C. 20250-1143 Quality of Information Web Site: http://www.fs.fed.us/qoi Peer Review Web Site: http://www.fs.fed.us/qoi/peerreview.shtml E-MAIL: gvargas@fs.fed.us PHONE: (202) 205-0444 FAX: (202) 260-3245 Information That Should Be Submitted to the Appropriate USDA Agency with a Request for Correction Requests for correction of information should include the following elements: • Statement that the Request for Correction of Information is Submitted Under USDA's Information Quality Guidelines • Requestor Contact Information The name, mailing address, telephone number, fax number (if any), e-mail address (if any), and organizational affiliation (if any) of the person requesting the correction. • Description of Information to Correct The name of the USDA publication, report, or data product; the date of issuance or other identifying information such as the URL of the web page; and a detailed description that clearly identifies the specific information contained in that publication, report, or data product for which a correction is being sought. • Explanation of Noncompliance with OMB and/or USDA Information Quality Guidelines An explanation that describes how the information fails to meet either the OMB or USDA Information Quality Guidelines. • Explanation of the Effect of the Alleged Error An explanation that describes the requestor's use of the information in question and how the requestor is affected by the alleged error. • Recommendation and Justification for How the Information Should Be Corrected The requestor should state specifically how the information should be corrected and explain why the corrections should be made. A request for correction that is specific and provides evidence to support the need for correction is likely to be more persuasive than a request that is general, unfocused, or that simply indicates disagreement with the information in question. This guidance for the content of requests for correction of information is not intended to constitute a set of legally binding requirements. However, USDA may be unable to process, in a timely fashion or at all, requests that omit one or more of the requested elements. Requestors bear the "burden of proof" with respect to the necessity for correction as well as with respect to the type of correction they seek. USDA will base its decision on the merits of the information provided by the requestor.

Here is a photo of the viewshed from the eyrie on Rabbit Ears to go with the viewshed map.

November 29, 2013. Finding the sun at McKinley Rock. A perfect day in the sun. Ray Williams leading Pitch_1 (5.10a) of "Big Balls in Cowtown". Logan Wetherell topping out after leading the right variation to Pitch_2 (5.10c). After we all took turns backing off Logan finally took the lead on the third pitch (5.10c) of "Big Balls in Cowtown".

There has been some miss information going around about the current access into the Callahans. Each fall and winter there has been drive-in access to the top of the Callahans on Saturday and Sundays. This access has generally been maintained through mid-March. A lot of people are still walking the trail when they could be driving to the top. You will still need to hike the trail Mondays through Fridays. COOS BAY TIMBERLANDS MILLICOMA TREE FARM Weyerhaeuser Hunter Hotline: 1-888-741-5403 http://www.weyerhaeuser.com/...-Hotline-Message.pdf "Gates will be opened 1 hour before daylight on Saturday and close one hour after sundown on Sunday." The most complete information for the Callahans is still Rock Climbing Western Oregon - Umpqua, 2007 Mountain N' Air Books Climbing during the winter months is best when there is a heavy valley fog or two days without rain. Rustic camping free to climbers with Access Fund or Mazama membership(541) 670-0412 of 440-9848

The seasonal Peregrine closure at Acker is lifted two weeks after the young have fledged. Typically some time between July 1 and July 15. The Peregrine traverse may seem anticlimactic following a Mt Shasta ski though. I'd recommend doing the Peregrine first followed by the Shasta ski. And yes, climbsworegon.com has been down for sometime now. We've been transitioning to a place in the Callahans and hope to have climbsworegon.org up and running once we've made the move and I again have a place to write.

You can find driving times on page vii behind the table of contents in Western Oregon Rock Climbing, volume 2, Umpqua, 2007, Mountain N' Air Books. This is currently the most complete guide to climbing in the Umpqua area. Portland to Roseburg = 3 hours Eugene to Roseburg = 1 hour Roseburg to Acker Rock = ~2 hours Roseburg to McKinley Rock = ~1.5 Both Acker and McKinley Rock require short hikes. You can camp pretty much anywhere you like, within reason, for free on the Umpqua NF, except designated campgrounds which charge a fee and are closed anyway during the gov. shutdown. There are no parking or trail use permits required at any climbing areas on the Umpqua. There is now free camping for climbers just outside of Roseburg in the Callahans. This option is just getting started so still a bit rustic. For more info call (541) 670-0412 or (541) 440-9848. Also, an update on Roseburg, Oregon. In the past several years Roseburg has taken a leap towards becoming more culturally diverse! We now have more microbrew pubs, and wineries than churches.

The Forest is still looking for comments. Don't feel like you need to have climbed at the Menagerie to send your comments in. You just need to care how Peregrine closures are being over regulated. This is an issue that can affect other areas the Forest Service manages as well. And, you can bet those speaking out for increases in closures have never climbed at the Menagerie or most likely never been to the area they are commenting on. From the Forest Service: If you are not able to get your comments in to us by September 3rd you can still submit your comment via email or mail after that date. The September 3rd date is suggested as it is most useful to us if we receive comments before we start developing alternatives, but we welcome comments at any point throughout the planning process. http://www.fs.fed.us/nepa/fs-usda-pop.php?project=38620

The Mazama's have responded with a good letter. https://cara.ecosystem-management.org/Public/ReadingRoom?Project=38620