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cjw250

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Everything posted by cjw250

  1. $545 for 16 cams total. 1x .3 2x .4 - 3 1x 4, 5 & 6 Would strongly prefer to sell full set. Well used but all in decent condition with good action and no rust. Many are from between 2010 and 2015, some may be a little older as it doesn't say on the tags. All have a little dab of blue nail polish on the heads (see last photo for an example). In Bend, OR but will ship. All the photos are on the MP post below. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120271899/fs-full-set-of-bd-camalot-c4s-3-6
  2. As alluded to in an earlier reply, there is a direct route up the buttress, and (big surprise) it's generally referred to as the Direct East Buttress. I've done it a couple different ways, but you can either start from the left or right of the lowest mini-buttress. When it's in, left is WI3+ maybe, and the right is similar but thinner. Mixed, snow, thin ice and a few little rock steps take you to the top of the buttress where you can make a short rap or downclimb to attack the upper portion as described in Oregon High. Picture is from Feb '13.
  3. Lost a BD #6 nut, a sling, a few Oz biners and a #3 Camalot somewhere on the North Ridge on July 5th. Also dropped a camera, but I think I saw that smash. Lemme know if you find anything! Cheers, C
  4. Not sure if it's worth mentioning, but I replaced the first bolt off Bohn St. on the Monkey Face bolt ladder with a glue-in and removed a couple worthless old ones near the belay. In addition, I also removed an old one on the diving board and replaced that with a new glue-in that, coupled with the one decent expansion bolt, should make a decent belay for tyros and slacklining and such. I know a lot more need to be done on the bolt ladder, but I haven't gotten to them yet.
  5. Thanks for the comments guys. Right on all counts - It doesn't top out because it would just be scrambling from there (we did go to the top once I think), it is that wall you see headed up to the Pass from Mazama, and I believe it's generally called the Cutthroat Creek Wall although as far as I can tell from having asked around and asked Bryan Burdo, this is the first route on it. The schwack to the base really isn't that bad though, and I'd love to hear of someone climbing it. Shoot me an email if you do climb it or want more beta!
  6. Trip: Washington Pass - New Route - Wright/Pond (5.11, 4 pitches) Date: 10/4/2010 Trip Report: I'm not sure how much climbing weather we'll have left this year, but we did a new route up on a feature near the pass and if anyone wants to go climb it and let us know what you think, we'd be stoked. It's all set up with bolted belays and a handful of lead bolts, and the route is pretty clean and super fun! It takes about an hour to get to, each of the first three pitches are rope-stretchers and are awesome and I'd say it was worth a day if you're looking for something new. Now!Climbing There's a complete write-up and more photos here if anyone's interested. P1 5.11a/b, 55m – Begin by climbing the obvious left-facing arch depicted in the photo below. At its terminus, head directly up gaining a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb this past one bolt to a strenuous pinch at an overlap. Gain the pinch and move left to a stance (crux) below a handsome, right-facing corner to the right of a large roof. Climb left around a flake to gain the corner and climb the corner crack to a bolted belay at a ledge with a small tree. A bold lead. P2 5.10c/d, 50m – Leave the belay to the left and head up a large flake towards a bolt on a small overlap. Clip the bolt and step right into a clean open book. Stemming and thin fingers lead through the open book and past another bolt to gain a stance. Step right and follow the line of six bolts up the face (crux) on small edges and pockets. Step left past the last bolt to a clean, shallow, right-facing corner. Follow the corner to another bolted belay. P3 5.10a, 50m – Head up the obvious right-facing corner (mostly fingers) until it closes out. Work the corner and face past one bolt until a small roof. Pull left past the roof into left-facing corner crack. Climb the crack up and left before another crack trends slightly rightward. Jam fingers and hands to its finish and climb a short, easy slab up and right to a treed ledge and another bolted belay at the base of a left facing corner/chimney. P4 5.8, 45m – Climb the blocky corner/chimney up past a tree until you gain a low-angled slab. Head left across the slab to a wide hand and fist crack hidden in a left-facing corner. Exit the corner up and right on blocky but easy ground to low-angled ledges. A tree with rappel slings is on the left. Descent: Rap the route in four double-rope rappels. Gear Notes: Double rack to #3;, emphasis on smaller cams and wires. RPs useful. Approach Notes: Turn off Hwy 20 app. 4.5 miles east of Washington Pass following signs for the Cutthroat Creek Trail. Drive about a mile down the road to a trailhead parking with a bathroom on the left side of the road. Walk up through the woods (no trail) towards the wall, gaining elevation quickly before traversing leftwards in open forest and on slabby benches. You should reach a shoulder near the base of the wall’s right-hand side within an hour to an hour and a half.
  7. I left some gear at the base of Free Lunch on the Picnic Lunch Wall today and when I came back it was gone! I'm pretty bummed about it as it was a rack of 12 draws, a pair of recently resoled size 39.5 Miuras, a Gri-Gri, a black Metolius ropebag, a sling, a water bottle, and a red stuffsack with my lunch in it. I'm hoping someone just thought it was left there, but I'm not going to hope too much. All the hardware has blue nail polish on it. Not happy. Maybe it was swiped by someone hoping to sell it? Who knows. Let me know if anyone sees this stuff up for sale though!
  8. I left some gear at the base of Free Lunch on the Picnic Lunch Wall today and when I came back it was gone! I'm pretty bummed about it as it was a rack of 12 draws, a pair of recently resoled size 39.5 Miuras, a Gri-Gri, a black Metolius ropebag, a sling, a water bottle, and a red stuffsack with my lunch in it. I'm hoping someone just thought it was left there, but I'm not going to hope too much. All the hardware has blue nail polish on it. Not happy. Maybe it was swiped by someone hoping to sell it? Who knows. Let me know if anyone sees this stuff up for sale though!
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