Dallas kloke

Trip: Boston Peak - South Face Date: 8/20/2010 Trip Report: Jill wanted to climb Boston Peak as part of her goal to do the 100 highest in the state. My only ascent of Boston was back in 1962 with the Skagit Alpine Club. The descent of the chossy peak was pretty scary back then as we down climbed it. Reaching the base of the peak, we ascended pretty much the rappel route. This didn't seem like the route back in 1962; very steep and also loose. We did rope up and I was able to put some reasonable pro in. The summit register is impressive! Three raps of 50 to 75 feet gets one to the base. I found a snow picket in a notch at the start. If you lost it, let me know. Gear Notes: 8mm - 60m rope, 5 stoppers, 3 slings. Approach Notes: From the trail head to summit and back, 12 1/2 hours. I hate that 3.7 mile switch backing trail on the way out!

Trip: Split Rock - Spelunker's Chimney and The Northwest Passage Date: 8/4/2010 Trip Report: After a successful trip last week locating Walker Valley Boulders (Devils Rock Garden), I teamed again with Mark N. for a bike ride to Split Rock - 41 years after my first visit. Quoting from my 1971 guidebook Boulders and Cliffs, "Split Rock consists of three separate rocks or summits. These large rocks are named the East Summit, Northwest Tower, and the Southwest Summit. Split rock is surrounded on the north side by a boulder field, on the west by several beaver ponds, and the east and south sides by forrest. A deep, narrow gorge separates all summits from one another on the inside. This gorge, or inside passage, is about 100 to 120 feet high and 30 to 40 feet wide." Spelunker's Chimney in located on the north face of the East Summit, which is the largest rock of the three summits and the easiest one to ascend to the top. The route follows a prominent chimney. A few feet off the ground we made a 20 foot traverse left across a slab to the base of a large crack. Then ascended this crack for 25 feet to a good belay ledge and the beginning of the chimney. The chimney is about 50 feet high and several feet in width. After stemming to the top, which exits near a tree (our rap anchor), a short mossy slab, left, took us to the top. Although access to this area is difficult, (motorcycle in from Walker Valley?) several new sport routes have been recently added. Gear Notes: Bike, medium rack, 50 meter rope Approach Notes: 7.3 mile bike ride from the Lake Cavanaugh Road (2 hours) 2300 feet of vertical

In the late 1960's, I ascended the south face via the easiest route possible to check it out. There are several walls with cracks and chimneys but not really worth all the time to clean the rock. I have this rock in my old guide: BOULDERS and CLIFFS. SPLIT ROCK, located to the north and higher is a neat climbing crag. I haven't been there for almost 40 years. Approach is the problem. The WALKER VALLEY BOULDERS (The Devil's Rock Pile) has a couple huge boulders: Blockhouse and The Wedge. One can hike past the Boy Scout camp to the area. The best climbing in the Cultus Mtn./Iron Mtn. areas is the CUMBERLAND CREEK CRAGS.

Trip: North Cascades - Washington Pass Area - Mushroom Tower & Big Kangaroo Date: 6/13/2010 Trip Report: Our plan was to finish with Melted Tower but time and soft snow ended that. With Jason Griffth kicking steps for the 3000 foot approach to the base of Mushroom, Mark Nelson and I followed up a more direct route then what I've done in the past. The step across under the summit rock on Mushroom was wet because of a large snow patch on top. We rapped off Beckey's two 1/4 inch bolts - having been placed 68 years ago. The traverse to the notch for a rap to the gully for Big Kangaroo was soft and dicey in a few spots. The gully that leads up to the start of the rock climbing for Big Kangaroo had the most snow in since I did the 3 Tower Traverse in 1973. From the ledge just below the summit of Big Kangaroo, we belayed each one over and back one at a time. There is only one 68 year old bolt on top. Down climbing with a top rope seems safer then rapping. The prominent gully directly below Big Kangaroo makes a quick descent with about half being glissaded. 8 hours round trip. Thanks for the beer, Mark! Jason took some great photos. Gear Notes: 60m - 7.7mm rope, small rack, crampons, Approach Notes: Start at hairpin turn below Washington Pass, cross creek and head up. Stay in trees, then follow left side of gully up ridge, some rock scrambling. Just below steeper rock, traverse left and then up steep snow to the base of Mushroom.

I coach high school track till about 5:00pm during the week to the end of May. After daylight savings time goes on, I'd be interested in getting together. Probably won't be light enough until April. Dallas Kloke 293 - 2904

Trip: Sauk Mtn. - SW Flank Date: 2/20/2010 Trip Report: Another Sauk Mtn. climb on a beautiful day. For access, steep snow, and fantastic views, it's hard to beat Sauk. Mark D. , Mark N. and I attempted a new route on the West Face. From just below the summer parking area at 4300 feet, we climbed the large snow slope below the face to the base of a rock wall. Almost two pitches up, a short step with little snow forced a retreat. After two raps, we traversed over to the SW Flank and climbed to the summit from there. There's no ice, but snow varies from fairly hard to very soft. Gear Notes: For the new route (two tools, a few cams and pitons, one picket) Approach Notes: Drive Sauk Mtn.Road for 6.3 miles, then hike road for about 1.0 mile.

As a Christian, I don't pray to Jesus to make me a better climber, or for ascending a route or peak. Starting my 50th year of climbing, I've always prayed for His protection and guidance; to use good judgment and for the safety of my companions too. However, when it's my time to die, it could be a climbing accident.

Trip: North Cascades - Sauk Mountain Date: 12/30/2009 Trip Report: Sauk Mtn. has good access, steep snow, several route possibilities and excellent views. No views on our trip. Kevin and I were able to drive about 5.5 miles on the road. We hiked another 2 miles to just below the summer parking area. The southwest flank slopes range from 40 to 55 degrees. The snow was powder about a foot and half deep with some sections of harder/icy snow. From the old lookout site, a traverse on the ridge is made to the summit. One 75 foot section is very exposed (250 foot drop on the left and 50 foot drop the right)with little snow and slippery rock. Time up 2 hours and 40 minutes. On the descent, we made two 75 foot rappels to the north of our ascent route. Gear Notes: two tools, crampons, small rack, runners and rap slings. Approach Notes: The Sauk Mtn.Road had little snow but was very icy from the past two cold spells. Normally in winter, one can drove to the 3 or 4 mile mark.

Trip: Slippery Slab Tower - West Face Date: 9/22/2009 Trip Report: Jason Cancro and I wanted to climb the West Face route of 1971. Upon reaching the base of the face, it was difficult to find the start. We spotted a faded blue sling and climbed to that on the first lead.(someone rapped from a nut) From there it didn't look to inviting as cracks were filled with moss/vegetation. A 75 foot traverse was made right on a narrow ledge system with one short section of 5.8. (good pro/horns) A belay was made on the southwest arete. From there, two pitches reached the top. The West Face is suppose to be 3 pitches, all 5.7 and on good rock and good pro. We found lots of blocks and flakes, and some cracks with moss and vegetation. Gear Notes: Pro up to 2.5 inches Approach Notes: We hiked in via Trail 1061 to Hope Lake, then Trail 2000 to Trap Pass. It's longer(about 12 miles round trip) but one starts at a higher elevation and it is more scenic.