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Lodestone

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    Broughton Question

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Howdy All,

     

    I gots me a question about your climbing at broughton.

     

    Anybody here who's actually led Otto feel it goes at 11+ R? Am I missing something? Like a sandbag? :confused:

     

     

    I've never heard of Otto and I'm pretty familiar with Broughton Bluff. What wall is it on?

     

     

    Chad

    Attention Climbers

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Just did it. One piece of feedback: I've been injured climbing three times, but they were all athletic injuries to my fingers due to over-use and had absolutely nothing to do with free-soloing. This will likely be a common data point unless you reframe your questioning to filter out this type of injury. (my assumption is that you're looking for a correlation (or not) between free soloists and injury)

     

     

    Similar situation here. I've free-soloed climbs occasionally. I'm also dealing with elbow tendinitis. Neither are related.

     

     

    Chad

    Climbing in Columbia Gorge

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    The weather is looking kind of iffy for the weekend. If it ends up being dry, Ozone Wall, the Farside/Dropzone, and Broughton Bluff are nice places for cragging. The first two are in WA and Broughton is in OR. All are west of Hood River and are quick to get to. Horsethief Butte misses a lot of Portland's rain, so you could head out there for some bouldering and short routes.

     

     

     

    Chad

    Is resoling rock shoes worth it?

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    DPS, genepires, the prices you guys are quoting is not for a hole repair.

     

    In my opinion, if you can see your toes, it's time to retire the shoes.

     

    This is what Mountain Soles has to say about hole repairs on climbing shoes: "Please note if you have a hole that goes all the way through your rand and leather (so that you can see your toes), you might be out of luck. We can often fix these problems and it adds a little to the cost of a resole. However, if the shoe is in really bad shape we might recommend that you buy a new pair of shoes."

     

     

    Chad

    Top rope gear

    in Newbies

    Posted

    I'm a new climber looking to transition from the wall to the rock. I'm planning a trip to Smith this summer and looking to do some top rope climbs. I need help determining what gear to purchase and what to take.

    What's your top rope gear set up?

    I currently have:

    -Helmet/ Harness/ chalk bag/ climbing shoes

    -Camping gear

    -ATC

    -2 7mm 30ft cordellet

    -5 single (24) and 4 double (48) length Dyneema runners

    -6 D lockers/ 2 HMS lockers/ 2 ovals/ 14 wire carabiners

    Working on getting a burly rope with solid sheath. I'd take suggestions on that too.

    Should I look to get nylon slings as opposed to the Dyneemas (which I currently have) for abrasion?

    Thanks for the help-

     

     

    You may want to do some cragging around Portland before your trip to Smith. Otherwise, you may be a bit overwhelmed when you stroll down the trail to the bridge for the first time.

     

    You have more than enough equipment to set up a top-rope off of a fixed anchor. With that said, you or your partner will need to lead the climb to set up a TR unless you are just going to sequester yourself to the Norther Point area. Keep in mind, there are often classes using many of the sweeter lines in this area.

     

    If you want to head out to one of the local crags sometime, sent me a private message.

     

     

    Chad

    [TR] Penis Lunch Wall - The Christmas Tree Ascent 3/26/2011

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Fun reading and great pictures Ivan. Thanks for posting. I may have missed it but what is this route? Bubbas In Bondage > Picnic Lunch Wall?

     

    Not that I have any experience with it, but it looks like Journey To Ixlan will get you that little extra mileage you desire by continuing up the highpoint in the formation. Although the description alone is making me sweat.

     

     

     

    Chad

    Smith Rock State Park Fees

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Yes, the fee to bivy at the Park covers the day use fee. Unless something has changed recently, you can drive out of the bivy area and park wherever you want as long as your payment stub is displayed in the window. The Northern Point parking lot would be a bit of a walk from the bivy lot.

     

     

    Chad

    ropes

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

     

    problem I see with the bi-weave is that one side inevitable stretches out longer than the other side. do you think this is true?

     

     

    Haven't had this problem with the three bi-pattern ropes I've owned.

     

     

    Chad

    ropes

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Here's the thing: with a bi-color rope you still have to find where the pattern changes which IS NOT nearly as easy as a good black mark, especially on a bright rope.

     

    This is another reason I like bright ropes like the Sterling Nano and Beal Stinger.

     

    And oh, I like the Sharpie and also mark 10 meter marks.

     

     

    I disagree, finding the pattern change has always been easier for me than finding the center mark; particularly when ropes get older. Also, using a Sharpie to mark your rope is not a good idea. There are some pretty nasty solvents in these markers which can damage the mantle.

     

     

    Chad

     

     

    Grigri 2

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    The metal on the new gri gri is cheaper than the old grigri. We are wearing out ropes about every 4 months at the gym and whip on the grigris every 15 minutes.

     

    Can you explain this a little more? Also, how do you know the metal is cheaper on the new version? I don't doubt it, just curious as to what you are seeing or have heard.

     

     

    I wonder if Petzl will continue to produce the original Grigri for their tactical and industrial line?

     

     

     

    Chad

     

     

    Grigri 2

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

     

    The Lowering in my experience is VASTLY improved with the GG2. I never had an issue with the GG1 but it was quite an on or off kind lower. My wife hated the old GG1 because of this. She felt she had less control with it. The new GG2 does have a 2 stage lower where the release of the rope "eases in". It's noticeable and awesome.

     

     

     

    I agree. Whatever they did with the cam shape seems to have alleviated the on/off nature of the old device. Hopefully this will translate to less frequent reports of partners being dropped by panicked belayers.

     

     

    Chad

    Grigri 2

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I thought that the 2 was going to be an improved version of its predecessor. What I've found is that it's better in some regards and good in certain applications but hardly a jack of all trades. A lot of people are going to love it. I just got rid of mine this afternoon.

     

    Wait...?! To clarify, you just got rid of that Gri Gri2 you JUST bought like a week ago?

     

     

    Yes, got rid of it. The one you fondled. I used it several times yesterday at Rocky Butte and it solidified my impression that it was not the tool for me.

     

     

    Chad

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