Lodestone
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Posts posted by Lodestone
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Check yer guidebook. P 19?
page 19
C
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The corner in the pic is Sundance, but he's right - the route to the left is unnamed, at least in the 4th edition...
BTW I am finding RB is a hard place to learn to rock climb. After starting off at Horsethief Butte I have been getting my butt kicked at RB. Most of the climbs are hard, from my perspective - a very humbling experience for me!
Don't worry about the numbers. Just climb what you can and have fun!
Chad
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Where are you located? I have a friend in Portland that wants to go the opposite direct (no loops -> loops).
Chad
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"His friend said he just wanted to sit on the edge and he slipped," Austin's cousin, Jaymee Shannon told KGW
those polls are are just irresponsible journalism. disregard the facts, acquire sensationalist knee jerk reaction from gawkers.
Well put.
Chad
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Scary. I've girth-hitched horns fairly often. Thanks for posting this. It sounds like it might be worth changing my methods.
Chad
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That's too bad. It seems unlikely that the guy was or attempting to climb. I hope he makes it.
Which reminds me, I topped out on Blueberry Jam a month ago and there were two little boys running around and playing games near the edge of the cliff.
Chad
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It seems that Giant's Staircase at Broughton Bluff would be a good climb for kids. Straight line, rockfall seems very unlikely, clean, brand new anchor, and setting up a TR is a cinch if you don't have a belayer. It's not that tall but I bet a lot of kids would consider that a plus.
Chad
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I took 200-300 hornet stings rapping a new line @ 2 years back.
Bill, there would be a little wooden cross at the base of the cliff as a remembrance if that would have been me.
Chad
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i always stick myself with an epi pen before a hard redpoint. pull wayyyy harder
Funny that you say that. I had a friend who's a nurse that said something to that effect. I don't think he was joking either.
Maine-iac, I'm a bit embarrassed to say that I only carry one (and leave another at home) because of weight savings. 15 minutes would barely get me back to the car in most cases, let alone back to civilization.
Chad
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Bolt it and they will come.
For better or worse, this is very true.
Chad
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Wait, what; why am I not allergic to bees? My face swelled up to the point of not being able to open my right eye. I don't have much 'data' to go off of but once when I was a kid I got stung twice and started to pass out on my run home. So getting stung twice (or more) has been something I've always feared. Granted, I don't know much about this stuff, the physiology, medicine, etc. Does everyone have swelling when they get stung?
Chad
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I was hiking up to do some climbing on Sunday when I got stung on my face. I uttered some explicatives and sprinted up the trail. Looking back I could see a dark ball of wasps(?) just above the ground. Thankfully I was able to get in a day of climbing before the swelling got really bad.
Out of curiosity, anyone here ever use an epi-pen? The though of using one scares me but I carry one just in case.
Chad
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Trip: Clackamas River Watershed - Coethedral
Date: 7/30/2011
Trip Report:
The somewhat adventurous nature of Coethedral and what seems to be an annual pilgrimage seems to warrant a trip report.
The approach is not too rigorous although there are several newly fallen trees over the trail. Where’s the Beacon Rock tree cutter when you need him? I marked the trail with flagging tape as finding it at the slash pile can be a bit tricky.
I had high hopes of creating a new climb that I narrowly missed working on last fall. Sometimes though, things don’t work out as planned. Climbing up the first one-and-a-half pitches of Bewitched allowed me to rappel into a suitable location for a new anchor. Rappelled in, cleaned a little, coughed from breathing some vaporized yellow lichen and started TR soloing. Holly crap, this thing is flaking off like an onion. Disappointingly, I could barely make it through this exfoliation to the sweet grapefruit section that reminded me of Lake Tahoe’s Candyland. I ended up working my way to the top but my performance was quite ugly.
Rightfully so, I think that Josh was getting tired of my dangling around on a fixed line. We moved over to Excalibur. This thing is excellent!
Above this, we ended up climbing the second(?) pitch of Trench Warfare before rappelling to terra firma.
In an effort to maximize our time we moved over to the right side of the Coethedral formation to sample some of the (shaded) half-pitch climbs. I didn’t take any pictures but we climbed Rad Plaid and Glad and finally Runaway Weasel. Both mellow, fun climbs.
Chad
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I imagine the climbing is pretty good in Miami..
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I'm sorry to hear this.
We have a few Nates in the Portland climbing community. Would somebody mind cluing me in. I have an idea but don't want to speculate.
Chad
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I've got 15 NEW Climb Axe SS bolt hangers that I'd part with for $25. Call me, as I don't check this site or the email registered with this site hardly ever.
I'm on the eastside and frequent the vertical worlds.
425seven three six7818
Pat
I'll buy them if RS2 doesn't. Are you going to pursue these RS2?
Chad
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Looking to buy some stainless bolts and hangers. I guess if you have extra sds bits laying around I would buy those too. Let me know what you have! Thanks so much!
Are you looking for a handout or wondering where to buy this stuff?
In case it's the latter:
304 SS 3/8" studs:
http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/wejit-ankrtite-wedge-anchors-stainless-steel-p-9142.html
SS hangers:
http://www.climbaxe.com/climbaxebolthanger.aspx
Chad
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There 1/2. Not mine just saw them.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/fs-12-rawl-5-piece-bolts/107218567
I don't think those are stainless steel.
Chad
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There's a Hurricane drill being auctioned off on eBay right now. Ten hours until closing.
Chad
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See you guys out there.
Chad
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This edition?
Awesome!
Chad
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Hey Ben
There's a local climber who has written a very nice, comprehensive guide to Rocky Butte. The place is covered in Portland Rock Climbs (http://www.portlandrockclimbs.com/portland-rock-climbs).
I'll stop and say hello if I ever see you soloing out there.
Chad
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Wow, that tempting and I don't even need a set. Maybe if they had the off-set Master cams for half off...
Chad
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I drove by there at around 6:30pm today and was surprised to not see any cars there.
Chad
Potential new DT area at Rocky Butte
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
With the recent spat of ivy removal at Rocky Butte, there's a nice looking swath of rock to the right of the Poodle Pinnacle that may be of interest to the drytooling community. Unfortunately I don't have a picture.
Chad
p.s.
The lone lead bolt on Poodle With A Mohawk has been replaced and the climb is clean. Now's the time to get on it.