Lodestone
-
Posts
266 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Lodestone
-
-
Looks like it could be a fun place. I'd like to check it out. Is it on public land?
Chad
-
Hey, at least you got to climb in Yosemite. Was there for the first time a month ago and it was raining the whole time. Anyway, glad you're getting out! Didn't want to ask anymore "how's your shoulder" because it never seemed to get better. Would love to hit up the traversing wall at RB with you...if you can still handle 5.7.
-
Yes! Fantastic news. Thank you Kellie for your hard work, and for the work ahead.
Chad
-
I guess I don't understand the distinction of grading things on an onsight vs redpoint. Yes, when I'm attempting to onsight a climb it often feels harder but I'm cognizant of this and can still categorize the climb relative to other climbs in the area. For me, Rolling Thunder is easier than House of Pain, Vicious and Chainmail but harder than Screaming For Change, There & Back Again, and Orion. Therefore (in my mind) it's about a 5.10d.
Chad
-
5.10d-ish
-
Anybody out there have some good suggestions for what I should climb out at the butte?
I'm looking mostly for finger or hand crack lines, but I don't wanna spend the time to find em myself...well...cause it's rocky butte and it ain't worth it!
Thanks in advance
Birds of Paradise, Blackberry Jam, Toothpick, Crack Warrior, Phylynx, and Fandango are all excellent climbs.
Chad
-
That's it.
Little climb x jankies.Is this the name of a climb?
i'm assuming he's talkin bou these things kevbone -
Presumably the same person added a bolt to the left variation start to P1 of Hanging Gardens as well as to Giant's Staircase. Both of these bolts were placed near naturally protectable sections of the respective climbs. Same Climb X hangers, same steel studs and the same time-frame. Both of these bolts were removed by a local climber.
Of the four new bolts leading up to the base of Sesame Street, I removed the highest one (old hole is puttied up). This one was placed within a yard (horizontally) of a large nut placement that would stop a train. Though I don't agree with any of these bolts being placed on a classic, established line, it didn't seem right to remove them all until getting more feedback.
While up there, I replaced the anchor at the base of Sesame Street with a pair of SS Fixe double-ring hangers. The old anchor was looking pretty junky/rusty.
Chad
-
P1 of The Line is the best pitch of climbing I've done. We were down there last month.
Chad
-
(going with the theme here)...Perhaps he has no nuts?
-
Are the DMM nuts still available?
I haven't heard back from the seller (but would like to).
Chad
-
Sent you a PM earlier today about the nuts.
-
BD 0.75 Cam welded behind the flake on Standing Ovation, not sure who got it in there but it is stuck good.
Anyone lead Big Dipper? Not much gear until midway, anyone tried a Big Bro?
I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing.
Chad
Not an unknown climber. I drilled the hole (I cleaned the climb and put the anchor in). We top roped it and decided it did not protect well at all. So we drilled the hole. Then at the last second decided not to place it. Then Micha came along and climbed it. He rated it 5.8 at first, where the rest of us top roping it thought more along the lines of 10.c. then he came to a final grade of 10.a which IMO is still very sand bagged. I wish I would have gone ahead and placed the bolt. Nobody climbs it because there is NO protection from hitting the ground if you screw it up. Oh well.
Thanks for clarifying things Kevin. So what did he use for protection on the FA, nothing? For what it's worth, Olson has it listed as a 5.11a in the newest PRC book.
Chad
-
What's the point of clicking on the notify button if the spam post is still up after more than a week?
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1107014/Bunny_Costume#Post1107014
and
Chad
-
BD 0.75 Cam welded behind the flake on Standing Ovation, not sure who got it in there but it is stuck good.
Anyone lead Big Dipper? Not much gear until midway, anyone tried a Big Bro?
I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing.
How would a .75 C4 get stuck behind the flake on Standing Ovation? That spot takes a #4 C4, no?
Chad
-
Update
The gravel back lot is now paved and there is a funky little parking area down a hill on the east (far) side of the restaurant parking lot. Might be good for climbers to use this parking area on busy evenings. Just throwing that out there.
Chad
-
Chalk is way overdone, and should be the one of the last things to add to your quiver. Somehow everyone starts with it anyway. Sadly.[/end preaching]
At the gym, at least, my hands get sweaty before too long, and then it's much more difficult to use them on holds. As soon as I mentioned this to my partner, another climber told me chalk is the solution, and gave me some of hers. It helped! A lot. (This hasn't been an issue for me outdoors, though.)
If chalk is overdone and almost not needed, then how else do I address this problem?
Taking the middle ground seems prudent and is something I need to work on. Chalking less often and only when sweaty, not out of nervous habit.
Chad
-
Update
I haven't had a chance to use these shoes but have tried them on (yes, bullshit review, I know) and they are fairly soft. So, if anyone is looking for a hightop that's soft this is the softest hightop on the market. My heel doesn't fit most of the Anasazi lasted shoes and these seem no different. I'm sticking with the TC's for now.
Chad
-
Regarding the gear4rocks single axle cams: Wild Country abandoned axle nuts early on with Friends as they can loosen or unscrew completely. Gear4rocks touts this as a design decision to increase strength whereas many would see it as history not learned.
Chad
-
In warm weather, the XS rubber is better than any 5.10 rubber by a mile. In cold temps,the 5.10 rubber definitely smears better but does not edge nearly as well.
I don't think you know what you are talking about. What leads me to believe this? You are not comparing types of rubber, just brands. 5.10 currently uses at least four different types of rubber for their various climbing shoes models. La Sportiva uses at least two types of rubber. What are you comparing, Onyxx, C4, Mystique, Edge, Grip....? If you are going to throw around generalizations at least state what you are comparing.
Chad
-
Ah ha, Left Torpeto Tube. Love the description on MP: "I would recommend against wearing shorts and a t-shirt on this one. I would also recommend against staring at this for too long before roping up and climbing it."
Thank you Dave and Matt!
Chad
-
What is the line in the image below? Looks like it's in Vedauwoo. The image is a screen capture from the Wide Boyz segment of the Real Rock Tour 7 video.
thanks
Chad
-
if you want the best in performance and longevity get petzl spirits with the beefy nylon draw for grabbin. nothing comes close. If you're looking for lightweight get wild country helium. If you don't want the best, then it don't matter - get the cheapest you can find
The "best" is subjective. I prefer the Mammut Element guickdraw to the Spirit quickdraws.
Chad
-
Ah good. Those Chameleons should suite you well. From what I understand they are a velcro version of the Spectres. I've ordered (and subsequently returned) Auroras and Legends from Amazon.com. The Auroras were a little too basic for my taste and the Legends are made for a high volume foot. Too bad, sweet shoe. Now I'm rotating between LaSportiva Katana lace-ups, LaSportiva TC Pros and my old Spectres. I've got too many other shoes but they don't usually make it into the rotation unless something has to go to Ramuta.
We must have similar feet as my old Spectres fit me like nothing else has. I'll let yo know if I come across a pair in your size (8 men's right?).
best
C
Madrone Wall - Construction Starts This August!
in Access Issues
Posted
That is great news. So is it looking like Madrone is going to have a seasonal bird closure? I'm not on facebook but would really like to stay in the loop on any upcoming trail days.
Thanks Kellie
Chad