Lodestone

That is great news. So is it looking like Madrone is going to have a seasonal bird closure? I'm not on facebook but would really like to stay in the loop on any upcoming trail days. Thanks Kellie Chad

Looks like it could be a fun place. I'd like to check it out. Is it on public land? Chad

Hey, at least you got to climb in Yosemite. Was there for the first time a month ago and it was raining the whole time. Anyway, glad you're getting out! Didn't want to ask anymore "how's your shoulder" because it never seemed to get better. Would love to hit up the traversing wall at RB with you...if you can still handle 5.7.

Yes! Fantastic news. Thank you Kellie for your hard work, and for the work ahead. Chad

I guess I don't understand the distinction of grading things on an onsight vs redpoint. Yes, when I'm attempting to onsight a climb it often feels harder but I'm cognizant of this and can still categorize the climb relative to other climbs in the area. For me, Rolling Thunder is easier than House of Pain, Vicious and Chainmail but harder than Screaming For Change, There & Back Again, and Orion. Therefore (in my mind) it's about a 5.10d. Chad

5.10d-ish

Birds of Paradise, Blackberry Jam, Toothpick, Crack Warrior, Phylynx, and Fandango are all excellent climbs. Chad

That's it. Is this the name of a climb? i'm assuming he's talkin bou these things kevbone http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=janky

Presumably the same person added a bolt to the left variation start to P1 of Hanging Gardens as well as to Giant's Staircase. Both of these bolts were placed near naturally protectable sections of the respective climbs. Same Climb X hangers, same steel studs and the same time-frame. Both of these bolts were removed by a local climber. Of the four new bolts leading up to the base of Sesame Street, I removed the highest one (old hole is puttied up). This one was placed within a yard (horizontally) of a large nut placement that would stop a train. Though I don't agree with any of these bolts being placed on a classic, established line, it didn't seem right to remove them all until getting more feedback. While up there, I replaced the anchor at the base of Sesame Street with a pair of SS Fixe double-ring hangers. The old anchor was looking pretty junky/rusty. Chad

P1 of The Line is the best pitch of climbing I've done. We were down there last month. Chad

I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing. Chad Not an unknown climber. I drilled the hole (I cleaned the climb and put the anchor in). We top roped it and decided it did not protect well at all. So we drilled the hole. Then at the last second decided not to place it. Then Micha came along and climbed it. He rated it 5.8 at first, where the rest of us top roping it thought more along the lines of 10.c. then he came to a final grade of 10.a which IMO is still very sand bagged. I wish I would have gone ahead and placed the bolt. Nobody climbs it because there is NO protection from hitting the ground if you screw it up. Oh well. Thanks for clarifying things Kevin. So what did he use for protection on the FA, nothing? For what it's worth, Olson has it listed as a 5.11a in the newest PRC book. Chad

What's the point of clicking on the notify button if the spam post is still up after more than a week? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1107014/Bunny_Costume#Post1107014 and http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1107015/Women_s_Halloween_Costume_Idea#Post1107015 Chad

I doubt that anyone has lead Big Dipper since the FA. I talked with Micah about the climb and he mentioned that an unknown person put a bolt in it and that it was later chopped. I don't see a good way to protect it but didn't scrutinize it either; too busy grunting and cussing. How would a .75 C4 get stuck behind the flake on Standing Ovation? That spot takes a #4 C4, no? Chad

Update The gravel back lot is now paved and there is a funky little parking area down a hill on the east (far) side of the restaurant parking lot. Might be good for climbers to use this parking area on busy evenings. Just throwing that out there. Chad

At the gym, at least, my hands get sweaty before too long, and then it's much more difficult to use them on holds. As soon as I mentioned this to my partner, another climber told me chalk is the solution, and gave me some of hers. It helped! A lot. (This hasn't been an issue for me outdoors, though.) If chalk is overdone and almost not needed, then how else do I address this problem? Taking the middle ground seems prudent and is something I need to work on. Chalking less often and only when sweaty, not out of nervous habit. Chad