franklinb

Thanks. The steep spots had an added pause at the exposure. Questions in the mind -was the snow in good condition, would anything slide, would something fall from above... I think the exposure more than anything else gave the "pause". -just don't look down. I've found up is much easier than down. Lincoln showed that true. No ropes for the ascent, but after hours of downclimbing we opted to rap the steep stuff. And with warming temps the snaw started changing fast. Now to see what comes after Lincoln...

Trip: Lincoln Peak - X Couloir Date: 6/21/2012 Trip Report: Lincoln Peak (9080’, p720’), Black Buttes/Mt Baker X Couloir June 21, 2012 DonB, DonB (PJ), TomS, FranklinB After planning and several years of waiting we finally gave a shot at Lincoln. A first trip of summer, a reminder with the Lincoln Vampire killer movie coming out, but more that conditions, weather, group were all aligned and ready. The video has the best impact and below some brief narration. This is a trip I’m glad I did and seriously doubt I’ll be feeling like going back to repeat. [video:vimeo]44637793 The actual trip started with a few emails after The Don’s skiing Baker. Conditions seemed a go. A midweek weather window didn’t slow things done, work or not timing needed to be right and the window for Lincoln seemed to rest in a month period of end of spring beginning of summer. If you hit it right it would be so much better than the alternative –ice, front-pointing, rockfall, avalanches, cornice drops, thin covering over rock, rotted snow… The route starts on the west flank of the Black Buttes (Mt Baker)at the east end of Wallace Creek. A ski approach could be from Heliotrope Ridge over the Thunder Glacier, Our approach was up the Middle Fork Nooksack River Road (watch for logging trucks even at 6am). Then an hour walk up the switch-backed road east of Rankin Creek (a bicycle would have been great). Then follow the overgrown old roadbed and cut up to the lakes at the head of Rankin Creek. Rounding the ridge at their NE end is the first view of the Black Buttes and the forbidding west face of Lincoln Peak. Even though the west side is imposing, the north and east sides are more so with vertical cliffs falling thousands of feet. We arrived a day before and early in the morning to see where and when the sun hit the slopes. The forecast was for freezing to be about 8600’, so soft snow and movement would be an issue. It was a stellar day to lounge, hike to the ridge just west of the Buttes and relax. This spring has had mixed weather and the heat and sun was not lost on us. We started in the dark hoping for a quick ascent. Over the 6200’ ridge, NE and down around the buttress on the south of the bowl. The first 1200’ were relatively mellow. At c7400’ we came to the large shrund and found a way over the gap and up and over (two tools…). The next pitch steepened as we worked left, over a rib and across to a narrow gulley. The steep gulley had a mix of kick-able snow and firn. Tom having a grand time Topping that we move up the next rib before crossing. As the theme of this trip it was even steeper. New morning light on the Twin Sisters as Tom rounds the upper rib, and Don waiting DonB (PJ) loves the steep and lead over the rib (65+deg) and across the very airy exposed traverse. The snow was compressible, it appeared we had conditions as good as you could ever get for this climb. Plunged tools would offer a little resistance, but maybe not a full self belay, due to the quality of the snow pack. Across the traverse Don was singing as he ascended the upper gulley past the Leaning Tower of Pisa. I kept my slow plodding stopping to admire the view and try to catch footage in the new light of morning. Tom was getting jazzed and hitting the firmer firn shifted gears front-pointing up. After his mention of being done with Lincoln I wondered why he’d go for a second summit (fourth attempt). Now I know why. There are a lot of great trips, but only a few like this that are remote, seldom done and give you the feel of a big mountain adventure/experience. Arriving at the summit saddle It was still before 6am when we arrived at the saddle north of the summit. The snow was rotted and with some digging Don crawled his way up the last airy crux to the summit. This spot would have been nice with firm snow. A plunged tool would offer little more than balance. Looking down, if you slipped the next stop would be three thousand feet below… 6am on the summit, a beautiful morning, alpineglow done on the Twin Sister Range. Grant Peak covered in its own private cloud. A tent city a top the Railroad Grade and another to our left on the north side of Heliotrope Ridge. A few groups heading up from the Heliotrope side and it looked like 4-5 groups heading up toward Grant from the Emmons side. Did they hear us as we let out a summit yell? Don waiting his turn for the summit with route extending below. Don and I on the summit Just below the summit it was fairly comfortable, popping on the top there was a cold wind. Standing atop a sloped 5’ snow cap on the summit looking down, vertigo was teetering on the edge. This was airy, really airy! We didn’t hang around and the closest spot to take a break was the cornice on the saddle. It would have been great to hang out more, but it was cold and besides needing to warm up, we needed to get off this berge before the sun hit the steep slopes, or loosened the frozen rock starting rockfalls. A long way down Don at the Leaning Tower Don on the airy traverse The airy upper traverse Don at the rib Downclimbing seemed to go on forever, past the Leaning Tower, across the über airy traverse. Over the ridge then the first rappel into the steep gulley. Mid-gulley another rappel from a dubious rock. Near the bottom of the gulley we hid behind a bit of rock to avoid the shower of ice chunks from the next rappeler. hiding from falling debris Tom at rap station 4 Another short rap to a rock island with a sling from four years ago, to rap down to warm sunshine on the steep slope above the waterfall gulley. Rap into the gulley via a runnel, then re-climb to un-stick the rope. Prepping the waterfall rap ... will it be wet or frozen? Last rap over the luckily still frozen waterfall. And over 1600 vert of glissade. A little uphill over the 6200’ ridge and we were back to 5700’ camp around 11am. tracks on the upper mountain Wheh! A little elation, but more deep thought. Maybe little of the mind being numb of the possibilities of what could have been. This climb did not offer much for misses or slips. Luckily, we’d nailed it. Now to pack up and head out. I knew the 4.6 miles out would feel long, but the final road walk felt like torture. As a climb buddy said before, “I’d rather shot myself in the head than mindless road walks”. Heading out... This was a serious climb and long in the waiting for me. Glad I did it, and watching the video reminds me of my feelings during it. Happy trails! FWB Stats: Total: 12.8m, 7020 vert (about half for approach/half for climb) Approach: 4:10, 4.6m 3400 vert Climb: 4:30 up, 5:00 down, 3m, 3620 vert Return to car: 2:00, 4.6 million miles Gear Notes: Crampons, slings and rope to rap, ax and tool. Approach Notes: Up Rankin Creek to west side, camp at 5700'

BTW Mesahchie, is Native for Evil, Nasty, Bad... Sounds like you found that out. The easy route up is to traverse from the first switchback before heading down Fisher Creek -no need to descend unless you like punishment. Traverse west on teh south side fairly level. Heather, rock, not bad, but a little scrambling. Aim to end just above a bowl (6400'?) go above the bump east of it then drop down the 50-100'. Good camping. Then scramble up cl3 starting NW then N up col. Up highas the gulley narrows a buttress on the right with a carin below it. Traverse below the buttress east, then up to the saddle west of the peak. Then a ridge gulley to the summit. All cl3 with some standard Cascade loose stuff. We passed through Easy Pass yesterday from a long loop -a bit late I guess to run into you guys. Amazing the snow still on the trail in places this time of year.

Congrats. I hope the beta helped. Looked a little more melted out. Much nicer having the clear rock than fresh snow.

Congratulations. I was wondering how your trip went. I thought it was going to be pretty hot with your carrying skis up in the hot open hillside from town. I booted up on the 2nd, not sure if the tracks were still up there. Was fresh snow that melted off quick. Route finding was an issue. Luckily, I found slings I unburied on my way up. I dug out a bit of the summit down to some rocks, but didn’t find a cairn or reg. Was it more melted out when you got there? I heard Sunday’s group of three turned around near the first rap. It was definitely more a challenge than when the route is melted out. Did you see more wolverine tracks? Had a fresh set 50’ from my bivy on the bump east and 400’ up from Holden Pass. I’ll try to get to posting a tr (gear used… crampons, 50m rope and a few slings for rap stations).

LOL, white bones littering the route... The Hook has become my preferred route up. Fast at 5 hours or less and easy access with minimal issues. I like the log and slab walking. It's the lower part up to Yellowjacket that sucks and not to partial to the loose stuff up the top. Looks like you may have done the same route we did last year, but we must have been on a little different version, we found a 5.2-4 leftward crack at the bottom and the one ~5.7 crack after the hidden flake. The rest was class 3 with some cl4 near the top. We stayed tied in all the way not knowing if there were any surprises up higher. Always interesting how each group can have a variation of the similar experience by just going a little right or left. I like the spice. I've found The Mole one of those places I'd like to stay longer and work a few more of the routes. Here's our tr showing a bit different conditions in the summer. Mole SE route topo Glad you guys had a great climb, -fwb

I think Becky leaves out a lot. Not nearly as nice or easy as his discription. And no mention in his about the potential of dumptruck loads of boulders coming down the gulley you have to go up...

Looks like we were behind you a few days. Saw your tracks up to the false summit of Luna and on top of Fury, but no sign ins in the East Fury or Luna reg. The storm had obliterated your tracks up to the Fury summit so was wonering on the up. Did see some faint down tracks.. The Ne sounds like a nice alternate to the SE Glacier Route (was scenic and easy walking). Though that storm got us at 8000' on Fury for two nights and 6-9" new snow. BTW the Fury reg was on the rocks west side of the summit not buried, even after the snowfall. It was wired with green wire to the rock. Congratulations on a great trip.

Thanks Tom, Nice to pull a trip together on the fly. I think I've recovered from that Denny's food (ugh...) would have been fun to have daylight going up the chute. I know it could have been awesome looking down it. I added a few pics: Paradise Fox Our Route first dot of sunrise above Gib Rock Tom on Columbia Crest Ingrahm Direct Cadaver Gap and Cathedral Rocks High winds on the way to Paradise

Trip: Big Four - Dry Creek Date: 12/11/2009 Trip Report: Talking with Tom, I saw an opportunity for Big Four. With ice and low snow (and minimal avy) I didn't think I'd see as favorable conditions for quite a while. Erin has had this hanging on her and with a little persuasion talked me into giving it a go. With the short amount of daylight we figured we'd be starting and ending in the dark. A good use for my Mt bike headlamp. Was a bonus to have a "bright" light. MP 27 direct to river, follow river east (up river) .4m to a large old log to cross. Then directly west to intersect Dry Creek. Up dry creek on the rightish side til hit the cliff (all in the dark). Put on crampons for some mixed granite, ice and snow. Across a frozen stream, up a snow field and right up the "Hidden Gulley. Low snow so on and off of snow, rock & ice. Top of gulley didn't go with a gap in the middle . Looking back and to the left (as Tom suggested) a shorter gulley took us up above the lower cliffs to the mid snowfield. Dawn had started and no lamps needed. We headed up then east over a frozen creek then up and left to the bottom on the upper gulley. The pitch had been gradual and looking up we could see it was steep from here on out (~2000 vert). Just below the cliffs on the right side (west) we could see the steep ramp that Tom's group used to access the NF. The snow was firm enough to need two to three strong kicks to make a toe hold. My calves got a good work out -nothing like 2k of front pointing and kick stepping to give a workout. I'm very glad I took my boots into Custom Boot Service and had the toes pushed out. No more toe bang while kicking in. Coming to a steeper section I tried going left, but felt uncomfortable with the thin cover. We worked back down and went up a chimney with frozen WI. Glad I'd stopped by and picked up a few shorter screws at Pro Mountain Sports, ice took them well and was even thick enough for a 22cm. Above the chimney the pitch continued with some softer snow. At the saddle we followed the ridge and the protected the final traverse to the Summit ridge. Ridge took a picket and in the middle thin snow so placed some small nuts in a crack. Could have used a lost arrow, but the nuts were fast and easy. We summited at 1:30. Erin all smiles having finally made it to the top of B4. Coverage on teh true summit was thin and the summit cairn was obvious. a little snow clearing and we found a broken register filled with frozen water and paper. I brought it back dried it out and recovered the list. I'll take it into the Mountaineers for archival and hopefully someone going up will place a new reg. We ate, high fived, a round of summit photos, wandered around to the other summits. BTW, the further west one is lower, though recorded on Peakbagger.com as the summit. Walking over to the ledge it was a straight shot down to the base and parking lot. I think we saw two cars, but nobody waved back. We packed up (that brass frozen reg had a heft to it), and headed down our same route. Rapped the ice chimney and downclimbed a majority of the upper gulley. Never saw the lower part in the daylight. The crux was downclimbing granite into a frozen creek then across to a thin sloping ledge that ended. A jump without a slip and landing on a small snow patch in balance –not a place to tumble. All gloriously fun in the dark. We hit the log crossing spot on. Trickiest part was avoiding the swamp that is east of the route from river to car. The river takes a bed so it is disorienting the direction. Erin had her compass out and we came up within 50 feet of the car. This was a fun trip with some nice challenges –a little of everything (except skiing –did that the next day :-). More pictures and TR on NWH (Link) -fwb Gear Notes: Had hard snow -60m rope, crampons, ice screws (more snow could avoid the WI, pickets. Approach Notes: From MP 27 go direct to river (short cutting will et you in a swamp). Follow river .4 miles up stream (left) to a large old log to cross. Then head due west to hit Dry Creek.

Good meeting you. Glad you enjoyed our steps and thanks for being patient up the Needle. The steps were getting firm when we came down Klawatti, so figure they'd be solid for you in the AM.

In the AM when we saw you heading to the col we were wondering if there would be enough ice or where else you'd be heading (Was scrambling on the Towers). Wasn't thinking the ice would be in. And nice timing popping up right ahead of us up the knife edge. Glad the summit shot came out and thanks for taking ours.