LeTiger

Ha! Thanks... WB on a Brown wall is bloody hard. Eerily insightful, Hugh has managed to unearth where all of my finances have gone recently... http://strobist.blogspot.com/ anyone?

Hey Folks, Winter is just around the corner, and like any sensible fellow, I need to get rid of all my unused winter gear before the snow hits. - Go Figure. All prices listed are shipped and PP'd, so what you see is what you pay. Prices are in US dollars, and all sales are ConUS. (If you are outside the US, YOU PAY the shipping and PP fees, sorry, but I keep getting burned. Feel free to make offers, but keep in mind I am pretty firm about these prices, and will ignore low ball offers. (but go ahead, make me a deal!) I am keeping some leftovers from my dream to do Denali, and some I will need to acquire again when that dream once again becomes reality. My loss, your gain? 1. Ice Screws - Gone! Thanks everyone! 2. Arc' Teryx Gamma MX Hoody - Gone, Thanks Maxtrax! 3. Wild Things eVENT Mens Medium Bib - Bought last year on a semi-whim because I had heard good things about them from a lot of folks. I ended up being slightly too tall for their "small", thus defaulting to my other pair of waterproofs. One small crampon tear in lower left calf area, sewn and works fine, could be sealed for extra protection if super paranoid. Other than that, essentially new. Pic shows the tear, with a penny for comparison sake. Wildthings site is being all sorts of confusing (no current pricelist?) Asking: $140 4. OR S/M Black Balaclava - Never used actually, it didn't layer with my Gorilla-Clava, No Smell, no problem! Asking $14 PP'd and Shipped 5. Okay... Here's where I get to feel like an idiot. La Sportiva Oly Mons,Mens Size 44.5 (UK). trained in one season in prep for Denali, way too warm for the Cascades, and not going to see use in the future (until I get my butt in gear for Denali... with current circumstances, it will be a while...) Rating: I'm going to go with a conservative 8/10 (see pics). There are superficial crampon scratches on both inners, all are surface, and non-structural. There is also a rub spot where the inner-boot lace hook did not agree with the outer boot, on both boots. Picture shows, but I have not found any way to address this (grow larger feet?). The great news is that these are pretty much broken in, and actually pretty comfy to wear. Sale includes original box and unused insoles (I switched them out for mine when wearing) New: $900 My Price: $525 Shipped and Paypal'd (PM me if you have any questions)

Unless you are very confident with your abilities, I wouldn't say they are skiable right now... The Mazama shoot is definitely doable, as well as the one lookers-left to it, but Pearly, not so much. Let me know how it goes if you manage to pull it off though! It really would be fantastic to see that. - G

For anyone interested: From today, we were worried about avy danger as well (probably worse tonight, but too late for that now...) did about 1 dozen "box" tests, and the snow seemed to be doing just fine, of course more rigorous methods might have shown something different. Either way, it was an amazing day to climb, and if it repeats Tonight/Sunday that would be superb. [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3323/4590493671_9fc7f9764b.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4590491947_9ee748d320.jpg[/img] I believe the Mazamas turned around at the bottom of Hogsback, don't know why, didn't ask. My group was one of the first few on top, and put the trail in to the right of Hogsback (don't know the name), then up the first couloir towards the left of the "V". Full sized photos can be found HERE

Long shot, but I lent my parka to a friend when our group split to bring down some of climbers not interested in braving the winds last night. She may have not secured it properly in her backpack, but it was a yellow Feathered Friends stuffsack, probably about 3L size, and lost approximately 1/4 mile before Hogsback where they stopped to put on crampons. If anyone had a gander and picked up, shoot me a PM and I'd be happy to reward the find. Cheers! - Guthrie

Haven't decided as of yet, but most likely Southside. Waiting to see what the weather does, (as always) I don't have any beta on it either, (sorry!) It will be my first climb of Adams, and I'm doing it with a class, so my guess is that the route will be tailored to everyone's median experience levels, and we'll get done what we can Bummer about the dump of snow though! Guess that wipes out possibility of using that path... I was hoping there would be at least a 2 day window, but I guess that's what you get on Jefferson... it being winter and all...

Unfortunately not We were already an hour out before I had realized I left my camera at home. Will try to get pictures next time I head up, for sure. (might be a little later this year, as I will be climbing Adams next weekend, and had a one-shot opportunity on Jefferson as far as I know...)

Up, price drop in Bivy... again...

Trip: Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier Date: 3/27/2010 Trip Report: Took a try at Jefferson yesterday/last night, We (Tworedshoes, and I) left forest grove yesterday at 12:00, and arrived at the end of the road around 2:45, were geared up and were heading up the road at the snowblock by 3:30. Weather was amazing (kicking myself, forgot the camera back in the grove) and fully clear all day. Some very nice skiier's had already broken 4 miles of trail, and we made it to PCT, and then the right turn up the ride up to Jefferson Park glacier by 7~ish. since the skiier's only went 4 miles in, we ended up breaking the last 3~ miles up the trail and ridgeline in about 3 feet of powder, and when we broke on top, were running about an hour behind schedule. Above treeline the weather forecast was accurate, and we were soon buffeted with 30mph winds as predicted. We hadn't counted on breaking that much powder up the ridgeline, and with the winds and incoming snow forecast, decided to turn back about 1/2 mile from the bottom of the Jefferson Park glacier. In total, 6.5 hours up, 4 down, and a pretty solid snowshoe trail now up to where the snow finally firms up... Just wanted to post in case anyone was giving Jefferson a try and wanted a pre-broken path up most of it. (although the weather forecast for tonight might make that trail a VERY short window) Reflections: If done again in March (or winter for that matter) I would definitely make it a 2 night trip, and probably bring an AT setup if the snow was similar to how we found it. The stream at the bench was accessible for water, but that could change depending on recent snow pack, so a stove would be mandatory as well. Gear Notes: SNOWSHOES/SKI's!!! (unless you feel like post-holing for 6 miles) Ice screws: 3x 22cm 3 pickets 2 tools per-person 2 prussiks 60m 8.6 rope 10 carabiners harnesses... etc.. Approach Notes: Road is clear til about 1/2 mile from the Trailhead, take the left at White River road and head as far as you can. High clearance vehicle & chains highly reccomended

Bump: Price update on Bivy.

Hey Folks, Through figuring out what works best for me on Hood, I've had a couple calculation errors and thus need to put some things up for sale. (blasted mail-order) 1. Outdoor Research Expedition Crocs - Sold! Thanks Kletterhund! 2. OR Ninjaclava Size S/M (sized wrong to fit with the Gorilla-clava) used twice. $12 Ninjaclava 3. Black Diamond Bipod Bivy - Green (been having much better luck with my one-person tent, surprisingly enough...) Used less than 4 times, item is as well, like-new. $160 Bipod I am happy to ship, but would prefer to meet locally in the Portland area to avoid shipping costs. Shipping split 2-ways. Cheers, and stay safe out there! - Guthrie

You have it custom made? I thought FF only did eVENT with their Icefall Parka's? (I may be the ignorant one though, excuse the question if so)

Finals Man... I tell ya.... Been REALLY painful not to be able to head up this weekend, and last, however the punches have been rolling, and the grades come before the mountain. Will most definitely be up and on it starting Late December, as I will be in Southern Oregon getting a WFR certification from the 12th through the 20th. (hopefully a good confidence booster as well) The pics will come, oh yes, the pics will come. Very excited to make my first TR, just gotta wait for school to settle down a bit before. Thanks for the advice everyone, again, I am always interested in hearing people's views, and it is always appreciated. - G

Gosh, people must think I am easily offendable! -(No Such Case ) I actually plan on doing well at both, but yes I get your point. Not falling is ideal. However, show me one person who would seriously jump up wanting to go on the mountain with someone who readily admitted to "not knowing/practicing self arrest" because they "climb well enough to not need to practice" - Seems like pretty slim pickin's to me... - G

No offense taken, and concern definitely appreciated, I won't be getting up on cooper or any of the harder routes for a good time. Mainly focusing on getting up on the main route for now. I just asked here about screw suggestions because I had a chance to pick some up at a good price, and wanted a future proof ice rack for when I was ready to tackle such routes that need those kind of pieces. If at all, nothing works out then I plan on using them for glacier ice up at where I will be working this summer in AK (hence the single 22 for setting v-threads) Was up at hood this weekend on Saturday night, and just went up for training to the top of the ski-run (Timberline), and then back down to Bivy in the parking lot (Didn't feel like getting scooped up by snow-cat's on the hill) Definitely going to be playing it safe and smart until I am ready to do the harder routes. Cheers, - Guthrie

Thanks for the report, definitely good to have some perspective on that. I went ahead with what sweatinoutliquor suggested, so no worries though cheers, - Guthrie

Hey Folks, Looks like this climb will not be happening after all (damn my ambition!) Hopefully by summer 2011, I'll have my ducks in a row, Much thanks for the interest shown, and best of luck to all who find themselves up there this season! - Guthrie

Even better, if you get really good at it, you can even place your hexes as active pieces! (Who needs cam's anyway.... )

Sweet! Thanks for the feedback everybody, it's been super helpful! I will definitely be taking my time up there, and getting my hardskills with self arrest with axe and poles down pat before attempting to get even close to the "Summit" (luckily for me, I've read too many books about summit fever to ever make that one of my primary goals, I'm mainly concerned with getting up there, and freezing my ass off to enjoy some excellent sunrises, and try some fun routes.) I already have some experience with ice climbing from doing it a bit this summer up on some AK glaciers, just never had my own gear, so was wondering if any was actually needed for hood. Looks like I'll be going with 6 screws, 1x22, and 5x16cm. (or maybe 13cm?) Again, thanks for the feedback! - Guthrie

Hey Folks, I found a pretty good deal on BD express Ice screws, and was wondering what/how many you folks use for Hood (or eventually Rainier) on the moderate routes *(Cooper Spur?). I was planning on getting 1x22 (Vthread rap)and 1x16, does this sound adequate to you folks? I have not yet been up on Hood during the wintertime yet, but plan on being up there every weekend the weather and avalanche conditions are safe. Thanks in advance, and Cheers! - Guthrie

I own a pair of the Gamma AR as well, and have to say they have failed to impress me. They look nice, feel nice, but when it comes to repel-ency after 3 or 4 uses, I have not had much luck keeping them treated. I would have bought the Patagonia "Guide" or "Super Guide" pants had they been available at my store, as I have heard nothing but rave reviews for patagonia's softshell line. my 2c - Guthrie

A good friend of mine uses his Sub-Zero on Hood in the winter with not many qualms. You might try checking out the Jacket w/hood option, as E-OMC has it a bit cheaper (and is a CC Sponsor as well!) http://www.e-omc.com/catalog/products/1121/Mountain-Hardwear-Sub-Zero-SL-Hooded-Jacket-Mens.html (Check out the XL "Tiger" colored one for 70 bucks off your quoted Whittaker price) Another great option would be the FF (also a CC sponsor) Volant or Frontpoint Jacket, although quite a bit more expensive, definitely excellent quality. (Lighter, packs smaller, I have their "Icefall" parka, but its overkill for your average outing on Hood in acceptable weather) http://www.featheredfriends.com/Picasso/Garments/Mid/VolantJacket.html (Make sure to get the hood version!) http://www.featheredfriends.com/Picasso/Garments/Mid/FrontpointJacket.html As far as -20 use of the Sub Zero, that might be pushing it if your on belay. I've seen it used comfortably down to about -10 with relatively zero windchill and a light underlayer, but at -20 you might need a heavier base layer to keep comfortable while on belay or at camp/bivy. Of course, this always depends on the person using it....

"Ships within Canada only." - MEC Shame.... $630 though after currency exchange rates calculated...

http://alaskamountaineering.com/Product.cfm?id=1219 Cheaper than you can find it pretty much anywhere else, I'd sell you my Icefall, but I plan on beating the shit out of it this winter

My friend just got one of their 30L packs shipped to OSU.... I'm pretty sure they will ship to the US... But if your dead set against Canadian shipping...