fultonville

Wow, talking about setting the hook! Nicely done!

Trip: Ben Nevis Scotland - Point 5 Gully Date: 3/6/2013 Trip Report: When I first started climbing over 30 years ago in Idaho I tried to read as much as I could about the history of climbers and their climbs. One of those places I read about was Scotland, arguably the birthplace of modern ice climbing. Now I live in London and after 12 years I finally made it up to Scotland in the winter. The problem with learning to ice climb in the NW is you can almost always find the stuff. The problem with trying to alpine climb Scotland is if you guess it wrong you don't find ice but rain and really really strong winds. On March 6 2013 I got lucky. I found a good partner in the UK, Sam Read, who not only let me lead all the pitches but more importantly also drove (big result considering what side of the road they drive on). Eventually conditions looked like they'd hold for a while so we were off for the 9 hour drive from London. First thing to get on? The famous Point 5 Gully on the north face of Ben Nevis. This bad boy was first climbed in the late 50's by hard men who chopped steps! Thank gawd for Nomics, front points and ice screws. The walk in was a bit cloudy but for Scotland more than normal. Then there was the first sight of the route between clouds blowing in and out and the dot on the right above the arrow is a climber btw. Looking up the second pitch. On lead in between the constant spindrift Catching a glimpse of my partner Sam below me. The obligitory summit shot rime ice and all Wasn't able to get out a second day due to 65mph winds! Now that I've been there all I can think about is getting back. footnote: the Ben Nevis distillery is worth it for their award winning ten year old scotch! Here's some other random shots taken. Hope it gives a feel for the place. This is the SMC climbers hut and you're not allowed in if you're not a member. Here's the view from that hut. This is the Rogue pitch on Point Five Gully. Gear Notes: Brought rock gear but there was so much ice on the route we only used 6 screws! Some fixed gear here and there so be on the look out. 60m twins were also nice to have. Approach Notes: Besides the obvious flights, drive and or trains one might use to get to Fort William the actual trail in to Ben Nevis is well maintained and with views to stir the blood. If you are put off by climbing in wind and spindrift, stay home. Also I recommend staying at a place in Fort William called Calluna run by Alan & Sue Kimber Tel: 01144 1397 700451

Nice one guys! Now get your arses out to Scotland and climb The Ben with me! Oh yeah, you know I do have a spare pair of Nomics you coulda borrowed

It's simple: got this for Xmas, don't need it, can't take it back. It's brand new with the tags still on it. This is a great light weight jacket. Price? $175 and that includes shipping. Learn more here: http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Jackets/Gamma-SL-Hybrid-Hoody#Hybrid

...one last travel tip: the east face ain't quite done with it's geological facelift. BEWARE ::

Ah yes, the scuffle outside the Hydra. Them were the days. As far as tights Joe them's ain't even close to what we used to wear in the day but if it works for you like the #4 Friend I didn't use at the bottom of that corner than so be it The next important thing will be who will get 'that' crack on the newly remodeled east face. Not me unfortunately, I'm back in the UK and will have to get by on dreams of finger locks while racking up some gym time at the new plastic pull-down near me oddly named White Spider.

This is Joe near the top of the first pitch. Dead vertical btw. Rating? Old skool 5.9.

FS: Black Diamond Nunyo 180cm skis with Silvretta bindings and skins. Skis used once on a sledding hill. Silvretta bindings are used...of course. BD Ascension Hydrophobic skins, used on the sledding hill as well, $200 obo

Lichen and run away shoes very bad. Less than 7 hours? Damn, broke pu and mine's time!

Always liked this traverse. Nice shots by the way. Were you wearing approach shoes or run away shoes? Also, what was your time car to car?

Very cool to see you got up this bad boy link up! When I did it I led them all as I thought that was the best way to keep my head in the game. Also Dane suggested that was the way to get it...what the hell was I thinking! Remember the start of that third pitch well. Chilly breeze coming through that crack, eh? Got into that off-hands crack and ended up leap-frogging 3 1/2 Friends. Freaky. Jefferies followed wide-eyed but he made it 'cause you know, he's a sexual kinda guy. As far as the east face dropping off, whoa, really looking forward to checking it out when I'm back in August!

Selling my older splitboard with skins and light weight 'crampons' to get up those crusty sections. Been used but not lately and I'm selling as I was recently given a newer one. No bindings. $250 plus $25 for shipping but if you live in or around Coeurd'Alene I'll meet up.

Need to stay warm at the belay/unplanned bivi? These are just the ticket. Highly insulated, windproof, breathable pants; ideal for active pursuits in freezing weather. Got these a few months ago for a trip this winter that will never happen so I might as well make room for more stuff I probably won't use. New with tags. They retail for $298 but I'll let mine go for not $220 but $200! plus a little for shipping.

Did this as my first solo of a NW volcano way back in '88. I summited in near white out conditions to prove to a girl back in Seattle I could. Idiot. Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgement.

as posted by Wikipedia: Internet slang, a troll is someone who posts inflammatory,[2] extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community, such as an online discussion forum, chat room, or blog, with the primary intent of provoking readers into an emotional response[3] or of otherwise disrupting normal on-topic discussion i.e. by definition this response. Learning new shit every day! Thanks Dane