TMO
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Posts posted by TMO
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Mount Stuart is VERY testicle in duct taped socks!
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I started on my feet, ended up on my butt!
Edit: What, and trash my boots?
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I too really like my Arc'teryx 300a, but after a day of cragging I've decided to only use it for situations where every ounce counts. After reading this thread (and seeing about a dozen people using these yesterday) I pulled the trigger on the BD Momentum AL for cragging.
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A climb I have wanted to do for a long time! Way to git er done!
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Damn rob...
I agree with most of what Ponderosa said, just replace "MUST" with SHOULD. I really think the first 4 years or so of climbing is more dangerous due to the learning curve. Add to that inexperience, youth ,autism and ambition and you've got yourself an accident waitin' to happen.
Josh, please don't take all of the insults to heart (dumbass, stupid, etc.). I'm sure you have the best intentions and a love of the mountains, you are obviously highly motivated and eager. Just don't run out and get yourself killed due to inexperience and ambition.
By the way; I sure hope your parents get to read this thread! As a parent this whole thing scares the shit out of me.
Douchebag
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For a two person team in the Cascades I use a 37 meter rope (120' +-), each person carries about 45' of coils with a 30' spacing between partners.
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I have the arc'teryx 300a... love it! Light weight and comfortable, almost forget it's on. My only complaint is the elastic risers that keep the leg loops up have gotten hammered from very little glissading... a little disconcerting given the price of those things.
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This really saddens me AND pisses me off!! It just doesn't seem right... From "High Lonesome" by John Long;
"He completely dominated the cliff with his grace and confidence. He never rattled, never lost control, and you knew if he ever got killed climbing it wouldn't be his fault. It would be a gross transgression proving climbing was foolish and all wrong. You'd sell all your gear and curse God for the rest of your life- on asthetic, not moral grounds".
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Garet,
I must say that I really enjoyed the North Ridge route. It affords a solitude that just isn't possible on the standard route. We had both the high camp and the route to ourselves. That being said- it is plain and simple a choss pile! I enjoyed it none the less... probably because we did the first half while it was still dark, daylight showed the gravity defying choss ridge.
Have fun on whatever route you choose!
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I have been up Adams twice in August and it seemed great, North Ridge and South route. Doesn't have the rockfall hazard of Hood!
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You should be fine in the Big Agnes Wade.
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I too have been eye balling the Flash 30
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I have used a 30m rope for 3 people quite a bit. You don't have enough rope for the two end people to have extra, but with a 3 person team i (personally) don't think it is necissary.
I have seen people (mostly rescuers 15 years ago) carry full sized ascenders, but; If you pre-place your prusiks on the rope before you head onto the glacier you don't need to worry about tying them in the crevasse.
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I would agree about your June 1st write-off... rockfall problems for sure!
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I did FF a few weeks ago... as mentioned above, the fan is nasty. We went uphill of the fan on the Nisqually and took the next gully to the ridge, there should be a path beat in by now. We experienced no rock fall on the way up the finger, and very minor stuff on the way down it. The tricky part was navigating the Nisqually between 11,400' and 13,000' as we traversed right, onto the Nisqually as opposed to going to the top of Wapowety Cleaver. Hope that helps.
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Thanks for the update Kevino! How 'bout some details, hmmmm? Good times? By lookin' at the pictures seems like you had a fun trip.
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Trip: The Castle - South side scramble
Date: 6/21/2009
Trip Report:
Another boring trip report of an easy route in a stunningly beautiful area.
The wife and I were staying in our cabin in Ashford celebrating our 22nd anniversary, but I had to sneak out for a quick adventure Sunday morning.
There was no one parked at Reflection Lake when I got there at 5:30 am. The weather had been mostly to partly shitty all weekend but the sun seemed about to break through at any moment (never did though). Nice firm snow right from the trailhead. I followed boot and ski tracks left to the bowl below The Castle. Instead of taking the ridge on the east side I went right up the bowl, keeping far right up steep snow to a rock scramble that soon led to the base of the fierce 50' south face.
I explored all along the south side looking at all the different possibilities... very doable routes around every corner. Below some orange tat was a nice looking bit I had not done before, so up I went. The reputation of the rock quality in the Tatoosh is sometimes deserved, but there IS some good choss and lichen as well... The route was easy 4.8 with good loose holds appearing every time you really needed one. I arrived at the summit 55 minutes after leaving the car. The mist and clouds were actually quite picturesque and didn't at all detract from the beauty of the mountains, a matter of perspective I guess.
I down climbed the same way as I had ascended. The firm snow was perfect for the standing glissade, which I used to great effect, but really wished I had brought my skis. 20 minutes of fun brought me back to the car and a passel of mounties. They were gathered in a great circle... discussing the pros and cons of venturing forth in such deplorable conditions. I assured them that wonderful times lay uphill and that, though damp, the rock was as good as ever.
Back to the cabin and my beautiful bride, still sleeping just as when I had left.
Gear Notes:
Alpenstock (no really)
Approach Notes:
Firm snow, no flotation required, but if you can ski bring 'em!
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It was indeed a great view. Funny... when time slows down you can shit your pants and admire the view all at the same time!
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LostCamKenny,
"Glad you're still with us!!! How deep was the gaper?"
She was a big one! My guess is probably 100+ feet, but it's hard to tell as I was in the process of shitting my pants at the time!
I knew it was a bridge as there was a maw to the left and a maw to the right but it appeared fairly bomber... no sag, deep snow, etc. So I stepped up to what I thought was the edge (correct) and was planting my axe on what I thought was the far side (in-correct), as soon as my axe hit the bridge an 8' by 25' section of it dropped into the hole. My feet were still on solid snow but as I was leaning forward I started to pitch in right behind the collapsed bridge. I was able to stick out my hands and catch the far lip and came to a stop completely horizontal.
Fortunately my partner had me tight at that point and was able to muscle me into a standing position!
Sobo speaks with great wisdom.
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Nice! Way to get it done! How hard was the North side descent?
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After 18 years of glacier travel I had my first up close look at the bowels of the Nisqually Glacier 2 weekends ago. If I had been un-roped I would not be here now.
I like to always rope up on the glaciers but un-rope on the headwalls (unless putting in protection). Remember though that roping up is only part of the game (keep the slack out of the line, arrest skills, rescue knowledge...).
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BD Firstlight is the best tent I've used so far! In all fairness though I stay home when the forcast is for rain (pain) so I don't plan on testing how waterproof it is.
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I am using a 62cm Petzel Cosmi'tec axe paired with a 50cm Petzel Aztarex hammer for steep alpine ice/snow routes (N ridge Baker/Lib. ridge Rainier).
So far so good... the angle cut "ferrule" on the Aztarex took me some getting used to though. This is a very light weight pairing that climbs great.
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They only open it for RMI!
Is Mount Stuart really that Testicle?
in Spray
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Is that Petzel thang behind the boot in the picture the cardboard box that the cramons are sold in????