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TMO

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Posts posted by TMO

    Advice for a first ice tool

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I would recommend the Petzel Aztarex. Pairs up nicely with a mountaineering axe, is fairly light and most importantly has a removable pinky shelf so you can shaft plant it.

     

    I have a pair of them.... I haven't climbed a bunch of water ice with them yet, but so far they seem promising. Mostly I pair the hammer with my piolet in the moderate 'pine.

     

    $200 should bag you one.

    Design an Alpine Rock Shoe

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

     

    Great topic. One that I have thought of often. I have always wanted a shoe that is somewhere between an approach shoe and a Kaukulator.

     

    High top for sure. I am fond of leather and laces (good song) but it would be interesting to try some things that Salomon has been doing with their running shoes;

    •Breathable mesh uppers

    •Gore-Tex seam-sealed inner booties

    •Kevlar Quickfit lacing system (to the toe of course); lace pocket hides lacing away for safety.

     

    Don't laugh too hard... but seriously, I have often thought that the ideal climbing shoe would mimic a goats hoof.... hard (not too hard) around the edge and a softer, slightly raised "pad" in the middle so it would both edge and smear well, maybe....

     

    I would call them "Goat Shoes". Google it, it's pretty funny.

    Fuel for Rainier

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I typically take 1 canister per person per day and come back with extra.

     

    Well duh.

     

    So four people for four days you would carry 16 canisters?

     

    "Typically" I am in a party of 2 for 2 days and have one 100gm canister left over incase I get stuck on the hill, smart ass :)

    Ingraham Direct on Sunday thru Wed?

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    Ricko, I think you hit on a good point.

     

    I live 45 min. from the park. I always wait for perfect conditions to give it a shot. It took me a couple of years to fiqure that out though! An old climbing partner used to live in the south and would come out once a year to climb Rainier. With his considerable time and money investment he had a "summit or plummet" attitude that I just don't have.

     

    That being said; I have been in an avalanche that I triggered(The Zipper on Lanes Peak). Youthful enthusiasm and inexperience were certainly factors. I have since learned to guage conditions and choose to avoid even moderate avalanche hazard. But it is a personal choice for each of us.

     

    Soloing on Rainier?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Thanks for your efforts on this topic Dane.

     

    I have applied once for a solo permit, about 6 or 7 years ago. It was actually approved in a timely fashion. Never did it though...

     

    I am considering a "fly under the radar" ascent this year. Government bureaucracy bothers me.

     

    Not exactly a solo but I always unrope when not on a glacier and not putting in pro. Liberty Ridge is a good example; rope for the carbon, Liberty Cap to the Summit and the descent.

    Your gear list on Rainier?

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    Here is what I have been packing lately on Rainier. My strategy is to sleep during the heat of the day and when I wake up cold, it's time to go for the summit.

     

    Clothing:

    Head

    -balaclava

    -WHITE ball cap with a skirt on the back

    -Glacier Glasses

    -Helmet

    Upper Body

    -wicking shirt

    -WHITE button up dress shirt

    -wind shirt (dri-clime)

    -shell jacket (marmot pre-cip)

    -belay parka (wild things)

    Hands

    -Glove Liners

    -Fleece Gloves

    -Alpine Gloves

    Lower Body

    -wicking pants

    -light weight fleece pants

    -Light Colored thin Soft Shell Pants

    Feet

    -Gators

    -1x Sock Liners

    -1x Wool Socks

    -Double Plastic Boots

     

    Climbing Gear

    -Harness

    -Crampons

    -Ice Axe

    -1 Picket (per person)

    -2xPrusiks

    -Z pulley kit (biners, pulleys, runners)

     

    Misc. Personal Gear

    -Backpack (Wild Things Ice Sack)

    -35 degree Sleeping Bag

    -Sleeping Pad

    -Headlamp (petzel zipka)

    -Extra Batteries

    -Map and Compass

    -3 liter insulated water bladder

    -Toilet Paper

    -Sunscreen

    -Lip Balm

    -1 Treking Pole

    -Knife

     

    Food

    -6 to 12 Gu's

    -2 days worth of munchies (nuts, beef jerky, delicious halva)

    -1 freeze dried dinner (or 2 cup-o-noodles)

    -1 freeze dried granola (or instant oatmeal)

    -COFFEE!

     

    Group Gear

    -Tent (maybe)

    -Rope (30 meter ice floss for 2 guys)

    -Stove/pot (jetboil)

    -1 Spork

    -Fuel (1 canister per person per day)

    -Lighter

    -Blister/First Aid stuff

    -Watch with alarm clock

     

    Ingraham Direct on Sunday thru Wed?

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    I would recommend waiting for better conditions. Conditions are everything; post holing vs. cramponing, fun vs. scared, etc.

    I have attempted Rainier too many times in scetchy conditions and had to bail. My preferred method is to wait until all conditions are as perfect as possible, then go for it, ignoring dates and schedules.

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