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Major Major

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Everything posted by Major Major

  1. I'm looking for a climbing partner to skin up and summit from the south side or Cooper once things get consolidated (i.e., once avy conditions improve). I'm not interested in not skiing unless someone would like to climb something more challenging. Anyway, the next few weekends are looking good for me. Give me a shout if you're interested. 971533424seven.
  2. Always bring a shovel in cold weather in case you need to quickly dig a snow cave.
  3. I will be in touch. If a window comes up that you're interested in, please let me know. numero es 971-cinco tres tres-4247
  4. I'm looking forward to some winter climbs and would like to extend an invitation to possible partners for Mt. Hood (Reid/Leuthold/Wy'east) or comparable climbs (ideas are welcome). I'm in for January and February (possibly December 26th-31st). I'm a mediocre climber with several summits of Rainier, dozens of Hood, and other places in MT, bla bla bla. Got basic avy and crevasse rescue. Screws, tools, etc, or just plain old ice axe. I'm kind of getting back into this after a one-year hiatus. Oh, AT skiing is a huge plus. Who really likes to descend 3,000 feet down a steady ski slope? Requirements: comparable experience.
  5. Are these the 125 centimeter or 140 centimeter length poles?
  6. geezuz krist people. there's no end to it.
  7. Uh, yes, "what an illuminating perspective". And now on to ice climbing.
  8. This could be the perfect picture with me sledding down on the left side. Call it 'bowling for climbers'. I actually really admire those nice steps. They were amazing; it was like walking down several flights of a parking garage. I should grab some of my old rope and set up a fixed line right there. Maybe I could even bring a ladder to put over the berg.
  9. Trip: Hood - The Queue Date: 6/28/2010 Trip Report: It was Sunday morning at approximately 1:35. With the lick of a finger to determine wind direction and a deep breath, it was a 'go' decision. GPS on. Crampons ready. Locator/GPS/avy/spot beacon on. It was time to go. We took a steady yet ambitious pace with the goal of reaching the summit in record time. Everything was going fine until we lost a climber due to bad breakfast and a penchant for beer. That's ok, I thought, we can do this. It happens, you know. And so we left the registration hut. We continued on. Four hours later we're watching the red horizon creep into the dark on the top of Palmer. It's beautiful until I look over and a giant female asshole is shitting and pissing all over the mountain. Sublime. By this time, I'm thinking, "fumaroles" and "shitting-pissing women," "by golly, I'm just going to do it." And so, for the first time in years, I pass quiet gas in public. No one notices, not even my climbing partner, who by now is staring at the summit with a bloody wolverine grin. He looked like he was about to eat a small child. And so we continued. By now I felt like sharting, but I knew it was time to enter the pearly gates. Perhaps I could take a shit on the summit, I thought (secretly knowing there would be too many cameras up there). Or, perhaps I could shit off the Pearly Gates. I mean, who hasn't considered shitting on the other climbers. They'd be like, "watch out for the ice fall, fuck, it's shit." This could be the ultimate triumph. At this point we noticed the herds climbing the Old Chute, so we went for the Pearly Gates. With a total lack of ice fall and semi-exposed bergschrund, we soon found ourselves taking summit picture doing ice axes high fives and cheering like titans. And yet, my mind was in a different place. I was surrounded by climbers; there was no outhouse as promised. As I waited in the queue to descend, all I could think of was my bowel problem. This was no ordinary climb, for I was carrying a scatological nightmare. When we reached the ski slope after descending Palmer, I took off on a kid's sled down the hill hitting top flux capacitor speeds. I could see the jealousy in every climber's face, "that ass is cheating." Finally, I was in the bathroom at Timberline. Damn. Constipation. Gear Notes: Pop tarts. Duct tape. Ice axe. Leg warmers. Climbing partner.
  10. For those interested in Denali, we currently have a list of 4 climbers who are highly interested in the climb. I am definitely interested in more people. Please email at montanabartlett at yahoo dot com Look forward to it.
  11. Caution: Latest avalanche report: Q1 C1 at 1 inch at Timberline Lodge.
  12. Thanks for the information on avi conditions. It's nice to get concrete determinations.
  13. I'm interested. I need some altitude this summer. Don't go guided. Save your money for beer. PM sent.
  14. This is a solicitation for CC members interested in climbing Denali in early summer of 2011. The West Buttress is the most probable route that I am considering, since I have never climbed McKinley. I am located in the Portland area. I am 30 years of age, originally from Montana, and have enjoyed most of the major climbing milestones in the NW in the past 5 years. I'm ready for more, but need some like-minded climbing partners. If you're interested in joining up, there are only two requirements (apart from the ability to make espresso in a blizzard and sleep with your eyes wide open): --The financial ability to take three to four weeks off in June 2011. You need to be 100% certain that you can take the time off. --The ability to attend/organize training climbs in the Northwest. Just important as climbing ability is the rapport/trust that climbing partners need to attain before taking on Denali. I know that climbing skills supersede the aforementioned requirements. But these are the things that tend to prevent most people from climbing big mountains. Either they can't commit the time and money, or they're not willing to participate in training climbs, or both. If interested, please let me know. Cheers and happy climbing!
  15. http://www.nwac.us/forecast/avalanche/current/zone/13/
  16. Yeah, Will, tell us about the d-bag.
  17. One PM, still not sold.
  18. Major Major

    NLA

    These are the best crampons ever created in the entire world. If I had known before I bought some other climbing toys, I would have bought these from you.
  19. These practically new boots were recently replaced by a pair of Cholatses. I would say these have been used on 4-5 climbs only. They have the notch on the back for use with new-matic and universal crampons. If you wear a street shoe of 12.5 to 13, then these will fit. PM if interested. I live in SE Portland - local pick-up only. Reducing price from $145 to $100.
  20. Bindings/skis sold.
  21. I have a pair of good condition Silvretta 500 bindings that are mounted onto some older Rossignol skis. These are the bindings that are compatible with climbing boots (with the rear and front notch). They use carbon fiber to make them supper light. I actually paid more for these bindings than I'm asking, but I suck at skiing, so my loss, your gain. Live in Portland. No shipping; locals only. Please PM with number and I will call. By the way, these are very rare and difficult to find. They still retail for $329, and are usually not available.
  22. PM sent on screws.
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