Longshanks

Trip: Goode Mountain - Northeast Buttress From the West Trip Date: 07/10/2018 Trip Report: http://goacrophile.blogspot.com/2018/08/goode-ne-buttress-78-713-2018.html Gear Notes: Rack: Nuts and tricams, single BD C4 from 0.4-2, BD X4s 0.1-0.3; 12 alpine draws and 4 long slings. Rope: Single half rope (60 m), doubled over for the rick climbing. Ice: Crampons, one ice screw, and one picket each. Footwear: mountain boots – I never wished for rock shoes, but this is a personal preference. I know many folks who've used rock shoes on this climb, and been glad to have them. Shelter: we used an XPED BIVYBAG DUO UL as our "tent" with two pickets lashed together as the pole. 300g of useful shelter. It works, but it's pretty miserable to be trapped inside of during a rain storm. We used every piece of gear we brought, except the ice screw. You probably don't need the pickets unless you intend to descend via the Goode-Stormking col, or if you do AND are comfortable on exposed 45-50 degree snow without protection. Approach Notes: Park Creek Trail: - A little brushy in places, with a few downed trees closer to the junction with Stehekian valley road. Not bad at all. The Goode climbers trail that connects Park Creek trail to the basin below Goode's SW face: - The old track is right in the middle of the 2015 burn zone, and is mostly gone. You can still pick up bits of it along the rib-crest just up-valley from the major stream crossing, which is helpful. The fire seems to have petered out above 6000', and the track up through the cliff bands between 6200 and 7200 is still there. Goode-Stormking col: -It appears that the rappel route most climbers are using is not the right one. There are about a dozen slings wrapped around a large but rotten horn at the lowest point of the col, with a boot track leading to it. Not only is the horn suspect, but the rappel line is horribly dangerous: a long vertical-to-overhanging line with extremely loose sharp rock. Searching up and right (closer to Goode) I found a disused piton and nut anchor in solid rock, that provided an easy, safe 10 m rap to the snow. Goode, SW Couloir descent: Descending with one 60 m rope can be done quite safely. The block on the sloping ledge "at 70 feet" that Beckey describes in CAG Vol 2. (and which was there as late as 2008) is gone. Instead, a solid horn is found at 100'. Altogether a better anchor.

I can confirm that the SE face of Nelion is a very nice climb. Quite solid and enjoyable, in contrast to what you describe. Seems to be a theme: my wife and I did that for our honeymoon.

FYI, I did this route last thurs-fri. Great climbing. We started the route as per the red line here on KK's picture. After ascending the slabs we took a left-angling dihedral for an outstanding long 5.7 pitch to the ridge crest. If the slabs aren't dead easy, you're in the wrong place. The glacier travel was good fun. We had to cross several narrow snow bridges and do some face in climbing on steep slopes above gapers, but overall things seemed quite solid. I worried about falling. I never worried about a bridge collapsing.

Well done V and D!

Well done, V! Great photos too!

Drivable to the Eldorado gate. Bare, or hard-packed snow/ice all the way to Cascade Pass parking lot. Took ~ 1 hour to walk it.

Some fat ice up by cascade pass: lower north face of J-Berg Most obvious/well-formed line: Most of the bowl: Full perspective:

I started that way long ago with the idea that it might catch peoples' eyes in google search lists (no idea if that's true). By now enough people have noticed so I've decided to keep it as my personal trademark. Sort of like you got to climb uP aNd dOwN tO rEaD eAcH wORd instead of just getting used to going downhill with your sentence.... On the flip side, I like looking at your pictures, but I never read your reports because the font gives me a headache... I bet I'm not alone there.

Yep. Did Sad Ce'Bu. The route was indeed much leaner than I expected, but very fun, with good pro. There isn't much snow up there at all. I'm guessing the climbs are a bit starved for water.

Some of the climbs at Strobach (motherload area) are in, but they look a little thin compared with the guidebook photos. Many pillars have yet to touch down (do they ever?).

It was indeed quite warm. I think overnight lows were probably in the 50s. Most of the bivy sites are on snow, however, which will make quite a difference. As long as you have sufficient ground insulation, I would think a light summer weight bag would be good enough. No bag would probably be bearable, but you might not get much sleep. There was also no wind to speak of this weekend, which helped. The bivy sites are not all that well sheltered.

What: Knife 1, Black handle, old style Spyderco Endura, combo edge Where: The trail up to Boston Basin When: July 1st What: Knife 2, Green handle, new style Spyderco Endura, plain edge Where: Somewhere along the second half of the Torment-Forbidden Traverse When: July 3rd

Nicely done guys. I'm the one who put in the screws on the ice traverse, and you met my wife and I near the WR notch as we were descending Forbidden. Sorry to hear the east ledges didn't work out well for you! By chance, did you find a Spyderco knife (green handle)on one of the flat sections of the ridge as you near Forbidden? I think we lost it around there when we stopped for lunch.

Probably in a black and red stuff sack. Somewhere between the summit of Eldorado and the parking area on Cascade River road. PM me if found! Thanks!