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toproper

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Posts posted by toproper

  1. after sketching and groveling up moby dick with one #4 friend, my littlest teency weency alien saved my ass (psychologically) and allowed me to munge over that roof.

     

    ..just goes to show, it's not how big it is. happy groveling

  2. Also, does the description "sustained bilateral pilon fracture" apply to me? I did break both tib and fib all the way through.

     

    sound like you have a pilon fracture of one leg only, thus it is not bilateral. Pilon refers to a comminuted or fragmented/displaced fracture of the tibia. You probably sufferred some nerve damage as well. To have residual pain 4 months out is not surprising and it may take 6 months or a year to resolve

     

    As mentioned, vit D is appropriate. as is Calcium, magnesium and a small amount of manganese (15 mg or less).

     

    You are doing well to get off pain meds. You're less likely to aggravate during rehab if you are not masking the pain. Find a good doc and PT, and try to be patient. thats my best advice. Good luck.

  3. Interesting question....

    both backbone and serpentine require some unroped scrambling at the base. I know at least one of the fatalities (I believe the most recent) occurred here. Also, dragontail sees much more winter and shoulder season climbing than WA pass due to the fact that WA pass is closed at least 5 months of every year. Dragontail also has technical ice climbing (triple couloirs e.g.)

    which WA pass does not. I wonder if any of the fatalities were on this route or on winter ascents of dragontail?

  4. The lower bivy ledge rocks. we did it in 2 days and slept there. It's at the start of the ridge where the scrambling/climbing starts. Just exit the glacier and 3rd class it up some towers. I'd recommend that over schlepping all your stuff to the summit. good luck!

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