jcp

Thanks!

I am still pretty new to WA's bc skiing. Does anyone know if there is any decent turns to be had in the Methow Valley? I know it is primarily a x/c area. I am a beginning tele skiier, so the terrain doesn't have to be too crazy. It seems to have the best consistent weather conditions that I have seen in WA. Thanks!

The donut dumpster diver one reminds me of my friend and myself in high school. But at least Dunkin Donuts just threw them out, and they were in bags! Yeah, 12 years later, and still a dirtbag.... (why am i still single)

Quit my well paying but miserable job in NJ, sold all my stuff, and moved back to Seattle by driving my completely full 250K+ mile Accord cross country with nothing in it but clothes and climbing gear. Climbed at the Gunks, J-Tree, Adirondacks, and the PNW in the same year. Still suck at climbing, but at least now I'm broke and living on a couch! I love climbing.....

Looks like a great route. I hope to get on it soon. I feel like I am just chasing your new routes! Way to get after em.

Either way it is quickly becoming a favorite climb out here. It is definitely in great shape. Good job on the find!

No, we ended up traversing pretty far to the skiers right, probably too far. There are now two rap stations plus a short walk off. You will need two ropes to get off the third pitch (first rap) and a single rope for the second rap. There were 5 parties up there today and we all appreciated it. Not sure what our problem was on the walk off, but it was definitely sketch when I tried it yesterday.

Is that third pitch any fatter? It was really wet when we were on it? I would be interested in seeing a pic if it was any different. I got on it today, and the third pitch is totally fat. It is still kind of aerated, but at the same time it's fat enough to sink the pick, or even hook some of the deeper icicles. I only placed screws on the third pitch, and it felt good enough to solo. And believe me, I am no hardman. It was a lot of fun. I did follow out the footsteps for the descent until they seemed to run out. We definitely ended up going down some spicy terrain! I think with a double it could be rapped, though I would only do a v-thread on the first pitch. The second can be down climbed, and on the third pitch there is a tree to the right that could be a rap anchor. Overall it was a fun climb, and I'm happy to have gotten on it. There is a couple camping up there tonight to get an early start on it tomorrow. I am meeting up with them again and bringing a new ice climber there. It is a great climb for it. Get on it before there is too much snow.

Thanks for the beta. Great pics, and i hope to be able to get on it in the next couple days. Solid work guys!

How thick is the ice? What did you use for pro, screws, or rock pro?

Not melodramatic at all. The mountains are a dangerous place. You were quite fortunate it wasn't worse. I'm glad to hear you and your partner were prepared for the situation and it didn't sound like you were in over your head. By being able to self-rescue, you kept yourself out of a potentially bad situation. The help on the way is a testament to the quality of our community. Thanks for posting, it is a good read for any climber. Heal quickly!

Hey are the metolius #1 and #2 still available? How can I pay for them? (I live in NY now, so they would have to be shipped) Thanks!

The campsites just beyond the feathers is the normal campsite. It is described in the frenchman coulee book. There are rattlesnakes, so keep an eye out. In my experience they tend to be off the trail, but sometimes close. Do walk with heavy feet so the snakes can feel the vibrations. Last time I was there a portapotty was present, but it was overfilled. Good luck on that part.

Amazing feat, I don't care if it is a record or not. Hats off to both of you, and great work! Great pics as well, very impressive.

Hey, this is the guy who you saw when you were on the trail leaving. I was one of the group of three who were going to attempt the traverse. We got thoroughly spanked, but it was a great time. Thanks for your tr here, it inspires me to go back and try it from the north side.