charlieburnett

Thanks.

Thinking of heading up it on Saturday. Were the snow conditions typical for this time of year? Crampons, etc?

Did you make it up to Cutthroat? Is the route snow-free?

Was up there 7/9-7/12. There was still a ton of snow up there. Plenty of water sources. Everything is melting out rapidly.

It will be packed.

James?

And, can I please be un-banned now? Profile for Charlie Member #: 353 Title: old hand Total Posts: 934 Total Photos: 10 Registered on: 02/08/01 12:00 PM

Funny- You guys are going on and on about a pre-existing bolt being upgraded. Nobody mentioned the scrap yard of old bolts, hangers, holes, glue, engine parts, etc. at the top of Jello tower (look down at your feet when glaring at this (brand new) 5 year old bolt next time). Most of the old bolts and pins in the area were installed because that was the only way to protect there before modern cams were invented. Think: old bolt on the S. Face of Jello Tower. Or, old bolt(s) on classic crack, etc. I think: It's OK to replace failing/ worn bolts if they were installed there at the time of the first ascent, and cannot be protected nearby with removable gear. This is probably pretty rare. I think the bolts on Old Grey Mare have been replaced recently? If so, that's a pretty good example.

Group? Just me and one girl. On the Lizard then Rogers Corner. I was at the last belay when you topped out. I was kidding about the "full rack" comment. I just think free-soloing is a lot more fun & practical with no one around, and nothing but shoes and a chalkbag.

Four cams and nuts isn't a full rack buddy. Where I'm from, Four cams and nuts IS a full rack.

Also, try free-soloing GNS on a busy Sunday with a rope on your back, and a full rack clipped to your harness. Then video tape yourself on a 5.9 boulder problem. That would be sick!

Nah... I'm not buying it.

I was there 3 weeks ago. I see the badass army van (in the background of the last scene) was still there.

First three years: -Captain Caveman was busy peeing in people's butts. -Mike Adamson was plotting search and destroy missions against members of the cellphone posse. -Charlie was not yet banned for life. -Sexual Chocolate was gay, gayer, gayest. -There were still first accents to be had on sweet granite cracks in Renton. -CC.com was more interesting than porn.