mzamp

Charlet Moser M10s: $40 plus shipping: Torn anti-bot but front points still have some life in them. Grivel G14: $40 plus shipping: Front points still sharp but worn.

thanks. we will buy the anti-bail for them. If they perform well she will also use them on Gannett in August. Hopefully it's not too steep getting past the schrund.

Actually they are the step in ones...not that it probably matters too much.

Anyone have experience with these? My wife just scored a free pair. almost 1kg lighter than her steel M10s. We are headed to climb Rainier, but I am worried this won't be sufficient. Although we are just doing the DC route and not any steep ice. TIA for any info.

I am in the planning stages for a 2019 Denali ascent with a group. I own the Acrux, but have only used them ice climbing, a cold day on mt hood, and a warm day on Rainier. I was wondering if anyone has experience or knowledge if they will handle the cold temps of Denali? I sure would like to use these as opposed to my old plastic boots.

We started at 9am and even then we were sweating like pigs. We made it to Muir in 5.5 hours climbing at a leisurely pace with ample breaks as one of our 4 was slow.

When you book a flight from out of town you roll the dice and cross your fingers. Unless the conditions are an absolute "no go", you give it a shot. Several people have told me a 3 day is much more enjoyable. The problem is, day 2 is looking like the better weather day and I would hate to pass on that window. We are keeping our options open and will have supplies to last 3 days (4 if absolutely necessary). BTW - due to schedules, we are braving the crowds and going this weekend. Should be a good battle of patience.

LOL We already have permits reserved so that is not an issue. We need to get fuel and it looks like the store opens at 7am, so we would be looking at about a 8am start to CM. But if the 3 hours is accurate then even a 9am start will get us there at noon. Plenty of time to melt snow, set up camp, and people watch.

What are "typical" times for reaching Camp Muir? I was thinking it would take about 5-6 hours at a moderate pace with ample breaks. Are there any issues with getting a late start (around 11:00am) or should we try and get started earlier? We get in late the night before, so I was thinking the extra sleep/rest was more important than an early start? Thoughts?

Thanks for the responses. Confirmed my suspicions. New Questions: - Would skipping Muir and camping at Ingraham flats make for a slightly easier summit day? Or is it not worth carrying the heavier pack up higher? - No avi gear, but I assume still bring a team shovel for making camp/building wind blocks? Thanks again.

I attempted the Kautz route about 6 years ago, only to get turned back from white-out/blizzard conditions at about 13,800 feet. This time I am planning the overly crowded DC route to help improve my chances of finally gaining the summit. - I know there are always trade-offs but what is the thought of not carrying avi gear (beacon/shovel/probe) assuming we won't climb unless conditions are favorable? - Wands, do we need them? Isn't the route well marked by the guiding companies? - 2 or 3 days? Do most descend all the way to Paradise on summit day or stay in camp for another night? I was planning day 1 to Muir, day 2 Summit with the option of day 3 summit based on weather. So we would have enough food and fuel to spend up to 3 nights on the mountain. - Any other advice or hints to increase our chances of success? Thanks!

Thanks for the great advice. We had an excellent day climbing. It was extremely windy early on, but as the sun rose the wind died down. The hogsback was in prime condition and booted in for an easy ascent sans rope. My two rookie companions ROCKED it! With all the stuff we do, I should have known the exposure wouldn't bother them...but you never know when you put someone on ice/snow wearing crampons. The pic is of them topping out of the left PG.

Awesome! Thanks. I figured that was the case. I have to stop reading so much. Kinda like when I read how scary the knife edge was on Katahdin and we crossed the whole ridge wondering where it was. lol

Based on the good weather last week and the fact I saw a line of climbers on the webcam, the south side route is getting done. Anyone care to publish a trip report? Anyone? Beuller? Also I have some rookie questions (for a climb May 5th or 6th): 1)Is it at all helpful to wear microspikes on the lower slopes or just go sans-traction until the crampons are needed? 2)I was planning on bringing rope/protection in case anyone gets sketched out so we can do a running belay. If we do, about how many pickets would be good? Is 3 sufficient? 3)Does it ever happen that climbers can go up fine, but get sketched out on the way down, requiring a rappel to be set up for them? 4)Bring Beacon/Probe/Shovel? Or leave them at home? Thanks!

I am looking for info on climbing San Jacinto via Snow Creek. If anyone has approach description or GPS tracks that would be great. Also if anyone has climbed it recently, if they have conditions report. Thanks