cja

I'll be there with girlfriend, flying from Portland, 4/10-14. We're meeting some other friends there, but our plan is like yours--long moderates from 5.7 to 10-. Black Orpheus is probably on our hit list. I know the park pretty well--been going once or twice per year for the past 5 or 6 years. If you can change your dates, the more the merrier...ca5@hotmail.com Don't be afraid to go solo either! I've done that once to RR and many times elsewhere and almost always had good luck finding partners, and usually well-matched ones at that. The RR Rendezvous is the weekend before your scheduled trip, so maybe swing by there Sunday to scope out the crowd and see who's hanging around. best, Chris

I like this sentiment...my first trip to Index this summer was a kick in the ass. I can't wait to get up to Squamish now

How 'bout this one down here in Portland?...a friend of mine called and reports that the guy sounds sketchy, and called him back offering it to him for $50... http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/3699069653.html Quote: climbing equiptment - $75 (gresham) arcteryx sit harness with bags and hooks and clips black diamond camalot 4 yukon outfitter canopy just need to get red of quickly short on cash...text this number for more info ..will meet in gresham easiest way 503 4814366 Location: gresham

Bugger all. I'm leaving Thursday morning, but I'll be in the Tetons within a couple days of your first laps on the corner. Enjoy it. I'll look to get on Beacon in October when I'm back.

Found it indeed; I still have the double-burner Coleman fuel stove and some enamel crockery to go with it that were among the abandoned gear there.

For peat's sake, Connor, when Ryan brings out the good stuff, it's "whisky!" I thought we'd gone over that. Apart from that I would only add a valuable lesson that some may have learned from a certain fabled race between a hare and a tortoise: Finding someone else's former bivvy, built up with stone windbreaks high on Washington's north ridge, is indeed a wonderful excuse for a stop, but adding a 45-minute nap to that stop will not bolster one's summit bid. It might, however, still be recalled fondly.

signs were still up at Ozone on Sunday...don't know how long they've been there...I have two purple's if you wanna offer a fair price on a barely used one, Kenny...although I suppose I should keep it as it seems to be the most commonly fixed piece around...

Flagstone is in. Looked like we were the first up in a while, but it's navigable now with 2wd all the way to the NF350 turn 1/4 mile from the trail up. That might be melted out too by next weekend. Luckily we had a good ax with us as we had to clear a small tree that was all the way across the road. Another group of Portland kids were just minutes behind us and helped with that. Go clean those mossy cobwebs off and get on it! Wolf Rock --not so good yet, but very soon. We were within a mile or so and about 2-300 ft elevation, but turned back by deep snow in the turns. That was from the Deer Creek side; we didn't chance going all the way around to hit the same thing on the usual approach.

Had I seen this I might have been very interested...sorry I missed it. The rain was a bummer. I went about 3/4 of the way up Colchuck Glacier alone Saturday morning in drizzle, and turned around after the party above me had glissaded down, one by one, and I shortly found myself where they had been, completely socked in....Spent the rest of the morning and afternoon huddled at camp trying to get/stay dry, as I hadn't packed a tent and was working with a large plastic bag as my refuge. How'd the Sisters traverse go?

So, quick trip report from the Butte: As usual, it was a bit noisy, but the breakfast cracks were very nice today--great temps, good classics, and no one else there until just as we were leaving at 4 two parties showed up...one of them looking for easy sport climbs--recommended OZone. Lots of stuff cleaned off the wall north/right of the breakie cracks...a few stray bolts revealed, two with booty/bail biners still waiting... Found some tat that had been cut off there-packed that out and pocketed a rap ring. didn't get over to see this platform at silver bullet...sounds a little enticing, but another trip to Beacon is on deck for now. One question though: How long have ALL the convenience anchors at the breakfast cracks been gone? Who (climbers or otherwise, if not specifically) has done this, and why? Lots of other hangers/bolts on routes gone too. I imagine this isn't news, but maybe someone can point me to an old yet enlightening thread. The chained tree over Espresso and a single bolt way over to climbers' right are all that seem to be left... Yeah, I know--that was two questions.

Thanks--nice to meet you Steve. Good memory--I told you CA5, but it looks like what shows is actually my initials, though my login is CA5Chris...anyway...Two different crews were there. I was just with Geoff aka Cyclewolf. Headed to Breakfast Cracks this morning to check out the cleaning up there, and get an espresso shot.

Bloodline seems way harder to me...maybe I should try it again. Was gonna hit Beacon Wednesday, but maybe we'll stay in Oregon and do that. What's up with this $10 day use fee that just popped up? Did you Washingtonians know this was coming Tim?

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1026722/Enchantments_Permit_Friday_TOM#Post1026722 ??

...for Colchuck Zone. It can be picked up tonight (and that is my plan) from the drop box. My group fell apart and I'm looking for a partner or two (permit is for 3 total). I'm coming from Portland. Ideal would be to find someone to share driving, but could meet in Leavenworth Friday morn...or even at Colchuck Lake on Friday night or Saturday, I reckon. Perhaps you're already planning a fast trip in a day and want to consider camping and making it a whole weekend. Perhaps you're just seeing this, have not other plans, and will jump at the opportunity. My plan is to go, alone or otherwise, camp at Colchuck Lake Fri/Sat nights, exploring or relaxing Fri afternoon as time permits, and going up one of the cols or Aasgard on Sat, could hike the lakes, go towar Prusik, climb Dragontail/other. Hike out and drive home on Sunday. I backpacked the Enchantments Traverse with girlfriend last weekend, and conditions are good. Navigation/travel/temps are just about ideal, but down at Colchuck Lake, unfortunately, conditions are also ideal for mosquitoes. I have resources (Beckey and one other) on routes up the sourrounding peaks. I won't be packing more than ax/crampons though unless I hear from someone. For the record I could lead a easier/moderate rock route confidently. I am NOT a guide. Last weekend was my first time in the area. I would be stoked to follow/swing leads with someone very familiar with routes there up to 5.10d if I'm following the harder pitches. Let me know if you're intrigued. 503.789.7127. Call because I'm unlikely to see responses. If you have no interest in playing with strangers but badly covet the permit for 3, call and we'll talk (It would have to be picked up before 7am under cloak of night). Getting reimbursed for the permits and not paying for gas/driving by myself would be a fair alternative to doing it all alone. Cheers, Chris

Gabrielle, or anyone else: FOR IMMEDIATE CONSIDERATION! I have a permit for Colchuck Zone for 3 starting tomorrow (Friday), for 3 days, out on Sunday. I'm in Portland and due to my poor planning my group has fallen apart--I am now solo and have room for one or two more people. You're very unlikely to get a permit on Friday if you're not there at 745am, and even then only one day-of permit is given out for each zone, and Fridays are popular; I just verified this on the phone with Ranger office. I have to claim my permit by 9am tomorrow (Fri 7/15), and just called a little while ago to arrange to pick it up tonight from a box. Let me know if you care to discuss more. 503.789.7127 My plan is to go, alone or otherwise, camp at Colchuck Lake Fri/Sat nights, exploring or relaxing Fri afternoon as time permit, and going up one of the cols or Aasgard on Sat, could hike the lakes, or climb Dragontail/other. Hike out and drive home on Sunday. For the record I backpacked the Enchantments Traverse with girlfriend last weekend, and conditions are good. Navigation/travel/temps are just about ideal, but down at Colchuck Lake, unfortunately, conditions are also ideal for mosquitoes. Cheers, Chris