psychobikere

I am in the middle of looking to purchase a new pack, and figured I would see if anyone here had any suggestions. I currently use a Cilo 30L for just about everything I do, but am looking for something bigger for slightly longer/more gear intensive trips. I would like a bag that can fit a tent, sleeping bag, pad, stove, etc..., a full rack, a rope, and enough clothing and food for 3-5 days. I will be making two trips to the enchantments soon, where we will hike in and set up base camp for 4 days each time, and run around and climb routes each day. Ideally I am looking for a pack that can cary all of my gear into camp, and then strip down to be able to use on the day-long excursions. Currently I have a MH Direttissima, but it carries like shit for me and I am looking for a replacement. So what does everyone else use for these types of trips? I am thinking something in the 45L-65L range. The Black Diamond Speed 50 and the North Face Prophet 52 both look interesting to me, but I have zero experience with either one. Would be great to get some opinions as to where I should be looking, and then I will go from there and try them on to see what fits me best. I also tend to be characterized by the slow and light style. I hate carrying extra junk. So something with a zillion pockets all over the place is going to be useless for me. Thanks!

Both BD cams are sold. Metolius #7 and #8 are still available, as well as the rope.

Jetboil and mastercam are sold. Make me some offers! I have more cams for sale I will list tonight.

Screws are sold.

Bump. Lots of stuff added. Make me an offer!

Selling off a bunch of gear to fund some summer fun. All gear is in great condition in my opinion. I take Paypal, and will ship anywhere you like. I am located in Corvallis, OR. BD Turbo Express Ice screws: 2x 16cm and 1x 19cm. Lightly used for two seasons. Mainly stayed on the harness during alpine climbs. One week long trip to Hyalite. $35 each BD C4 cams #.5 and #1 Metolius Mastercam #2 -all cams are in great working shape. BD #1 used for less than a year. $30 a piece. Metolius Powercams #7 and #8 Used but in good shape. $25 a piece. Mammut Phoenix 30m 1/2 rope. 8mm. Dry treated, great rope, only used once on a Rainier climb. I just don't have much use for it. $50. JetBoil Stove The generation before the flash. Electronic ignitor still reliably works. Normal wear from 2 years of use. $25. I also have a BD Alpine Bod harness, size large. Used twice ever. Great shape. $20.

Bump. Crampons are sold. Make me an offer on the jacket.

I am selling my Arcteryx alpha sv with GoreTex Pro Shell. It is size small, and the titanium color with red zipper pulls. It is used but in like new condition. No holes, tears, abrasions, stains, repairs, etc. Really excellent condition. Amazing jacket, but selling to fund some climbing trips this summer. No poor graduate student should have a jacket this nice anyways. Asking $300. I accept paypal. I am located in Corvallis, OR. Make me an offer.

Pleeease let it be a yellow helmet. With a big ol' Mickey's sticker on the front. Probably well downriver by now though....

It happened at Ozone, I was there climbing yesterday on the eastern end, and the accident apparently happened toward the western end. It was only my second time there, so I can't give any specifics about exactly where it happened. We were oblivious to anything having happened, along with another party who were climbing near us. It wasn't until we got up to the lot that we saw all of the police/fire/SAR vehicles and personnel. We had heard nothing suspicious all day, and thought that maybe they were doing some sort of training exercise. We ran into some other climbers at the store right after, who were the first to respond to the accident. Apparently it was a random rockfall that struck a climber in the head, knocking them unconscious. This caused them to take a fall. I'm not clear on whether it was the leader or belayer who was struck, but believe it was the leader. The two climbers I spoke to at the store said that the victim was stable whenever they left. This is all second hand knowledge, and the conversation I had with them was after climbing all day in 90 degree heat during a beer run, so take that as you may. I am positive though the accident was caused by a rockfall strike to the head. NO I don't know whether or not he/she was wearing a helmet. I've climbed long enough to be around more than a few of these kinds of accidents, but this was the first time that something happened so close to me while climbing and I had no idea. It was pretty surreal for my partner and I to hear about it after the fact. Be careful out there.

As I remember, the "crux" piece that was actually solid was a red camalot.

SOLD!

I have a used Cilogear 45L pack that I purchased in March of last year. Not exactly sure what version that would make it... I ordered a size medium, but it has a small tag with an "L" on it, so maybe I was accidentally sent a large and didn't notice for a while. Either way, the torso length is too long for me and I am tired of putting up with it. I loved it other than that. Includes all straps that originally came with the pack. I consider it to be in good shape, no holes or tears. Minor abrasions and stains from regular use. Asking $100. I'll pay standard shipping, you pay if you want express. I am located in Corvallis.

Awesome, sounds like you guys had a great time! I want to see the mud footage though.

Thanks Dane! Yeah I'm not too worried anymore. I just thought it was sort of an obvious thing that I couldn't find much discussion on so I thought I'd throw it out there.

Thanks for the input everyone. I'm going to give BD a call tomorrow and see what I can learn. I'm sure my 150lbs doesn't put the tools anywhere near the stress levels that BD's testing does, but I'd like to hear what they have to say. I'll post whenever I get in touch with someone.

That's good to hear about the curb test. That's kind of what I was hoping to hear. My knowledge of carbon fiber is also limited to bike frames, which is why I have been worried about my tools. But Dane, if I understand you correctly, you are saying that the shaft on the cobras is NOT hollow? I was under the impression that it is...

Thanks Bob. I do have some gouges in the tools, the worst being shown in the top picture. I am just pretty surprised, because I don't do much mixed climbing at all. Needless to say though, the thought of retiring a set of $600+ tools after one year is a little too much for me.

So how much scratching/chipping is too much? I have only used these tools for one season, and they seem to have shown a lot of wear. I don't have much experience with other carbon fiber tools, but I know that if my carbon fiber bikes looked this bad, I would think twice about riding them. Should I be concerned about this? Or do my tools look like everyone else's?

Sorry, was away from the computer and in the rain for a few days. I'm down in Newport Oregon.

bump. stuff is still for sale. Just make a reasonable offer. I am moving soon and want to get rid of this stuff. I also have an older North Face sleeping bag. Climber 3D DL standard length with half-length zipper. Polarguard 3D fill. It has lost some loft, but has the Gore Dry Loft exterior that I believe is wind proof and water resistant. It also has its own stuff sack built into it on the bottom interior. I believe it was rated to 35 degrees. Make an offer.

No one knows how often this climb comes in? It could be the most popular climb around, or unclimbed, and I wouldn't know the difference. I'm new to the area...

I wear a 9.5-10 street shoe. However, I feel these boots were a bit small for me, and went with a 42.5 Nepal Evo for my newer boots. I don't ski so can't speak to my ski boot size.

Bump. Lowered the price on the axe to $100. Offers?

Trip: Big Four Mountain - Dry Creek Ice Climbing Date: 12/13/2009 Trip Report: After spending Friday ice cragging in the Gorge near Portland, my friend Forrest and I decided to flee the coming ice storms and head up to Big Four mountain. The recent TR from there was really motivating, so we decided to go check out the north face for ourselves. The plan was to head up through the Dry Creek drainage to access the upper north face. We got a too late start however on Sunday morning, and found ourselves at the base of Dry Creek at dawn. After scoping out a few lines, we decided on the obvious large ice flow to the left. The pictures are very foreshortened. Due to the late time in the day and the coming snow, we decided to forgo the summit and follow the ice as far is it would take us. We found mostly wet ice, with quite a bit of running water behind it. There were quite a few thin sections, but mainly good sticks. The ice was soft enough in most spots to make screws seem like more of a formality than anything. We ended up climbing 7 or 8 pitches with some simulclimbing on moderate terrain up high. The first few pitches were the steepest. This is only my 3rd season ice climbing, and my first outside of New Hampshire, but I would put the grade somewhere around WI3/4. Teh snow began in the late morning as flurries, and came down heavier throughout the day. I can't say enough about how beautiful it was. We downclimbed most of the route, and made two 60m raps at the end. The climb was a great consolation prize for not being able to go for the north face. We both walked away (in the dark through waaayy too much alder) feeling super stoked, and wanting more. This was the first time I have ever climbed a big ice line without any prior knowledge of the route. It was a great experience for both of us, and left us wondering more about it. Does anyone know how often it comes in? Grades? I know the mountain is in great condition right now, but I'm sure many have come before us. There were also at least 4 or 5 other very obvious lines which looked super fun, also in the WI4 range. None seemed to be as long and sustained however as the one we chose. Sorry I don't have more pictures, but Forrest was making use of a digital video camera rented from OSU, so hopefully we can post some of that up once he gets it downloaded. Gear Notes: 8 screws, picket Approach Notes: Tightrope as many downed trees as possible.