Commarin

This topic is old, but wanted to add this from an interview with Marko Prezelj, another Slovenian alpinist and one of the greatest Himalayan climbers of all time: We mentioned Tomo Cesen. So the simple question is: did he do it or didn’t he? He did it. There’s no proof that he did it and there’s no proof that he didn’t. So to me, as long as he says he did it, I believe him. Almost every alpinist in the world has something they did without proof. So if I started disbelieving him, I’d have to start disbelieving others. I have many ascents I have no proof I have made. Even in sport climbing you often have to just believe that someone’s done something. Without any proof. So for me this kind of trust is a fundamental thing in climbing. Besides I know Tomo, and it helps me to believe, because he’s a really special person who is able to do such things.

Can I still at least belay off the lid retainier?

We start the HR Tuesday, sorry to have missed you.

Great story and some good comments. It's a winner!

I'm planning an expedition for the west ridge of Mount Crillon in the Fairweather/Saint Elias Range. Any beta from fellow climbers regarding approaches and route details would be greatly appreciated. We'll most likely approach by boat from Lituya Bay, then traverse either the North Crillon or South Crillon Glacier to the base of the route. I received some aerial photos and details of the route from Bradford Washburn prior to his death. But his ascent took place in 1934, so we're searching for something more current. Thanks

I'm planning an expedition for the west ridge of Mount Crillon in the Fairweather/Saint Elias Range. Any info from fellow climbers regarding approaches and route details would be greatly appreciated. I received some superb aerial photos and details of the first ascent from Bradford Washburn prior to his death. But this took place in 1934, so am searching for more current beta. Thanks

You will likely be dodging rocks in the dark below Black Pyramid when temps are above freezing, which is common in July/August. In my opinion that's probably the worst time of year to climb Liberty Ridge having done the route in spring, summer and winter from St Elmo's Pass and Carbon River. Be prepared for ice climbing on 50° slopes with a full pack between 12,000' and 14,000' at that time of year as well. 1-2 hours to cross Carbon Glacier from lower Curtis Ridge if conditions are good, longer if route finding is necessary or you're approaching from Carbon River Road.

If you aren't comfortable on steep, exposed and mixed terrain I'd avoid the north side and west ridge in winter and opt for Cascadian or Ulrich's if the snow pack is stable. If you are experienced on technical, mixed terrain I'd look at Stuart Glacier Couloir.

More than likely depends on the winter. When I climbed it in January 1995 it was knee-deep, unconsolidated snow from Carbon Glacier to just below the Black Pyramid, hard ice from there to Liberty Cap. The traverse from Liberty Cap to the top of Emmons Glacier was wind blown hard pack.

Sad and yet avoidable. A few were recently lost east of Crystal Mountain and behind Alpental as well - why not simply wait for favorable conditions?

A sad yet not uncommon story, it's an avalanche death trap that kills folks nearly every year

Okay, thanks for that info. Haven't seen him in over 20 years, wanted to get in touch. Tried Google with no success.

Does anyone know how I can get in touch with user name 'lepton'? Thanks