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DetachedFlake

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Everything posted by DetachedFlake

  1. I got these earlier this spring and they have very little wear, just some scuffing on the sides of a few. No falls, hanging from bolts, or aiding done on these. Rope bearing surfaces in pretty much mint shape. These are silver, not anodized. $50 for the lot. They retail at $7.95 each. Prefer paypal or cash (I'm in Bellingham), will consider other payment. You can check out my eBay record if you want, user lbrwhat. PM me if you are interested. Da Shpeil: Weighing in at just 27 grams, one of the lightest carabiners on the market. The Moses is the ideal companion for mountaineering or whenever weight matters. Wiregate resists icing over. Breaking load lengthwise: 23 kN Breaking load across: 9 kN Breaking load open: 8 kN Weight: 27 g.
  2. Hi Justin, I am another 'hamster looking to get the groove on. Been slow for me, too, so far. I am apparently teknologikaly challenged and can't figger out how to post a &%##$% PM, please hit me back up. I don't have a tick list but am game for lots. Little out of shape for rock, could probly get back to .11s pretty quick. Mostly interested in alpine, but I think my main crush for the winter just fell off (Polish route, Colfax). Nooksak tower? Jagged ridge? Ideas? lewis
  3. This is the problem I had. Does yours do this frequently? I've only had it out in the field once so far, but I'm reluctant to take on a multi-day because it was burning erraticaly and opening the valve to clear it means I can't accurately predict the amount of fuel I'll need. I had hoped for an even burn, at least better than an upright crtridge, which is subject to the internal pressure/temp issues. Have you (or any other cartridge users out there) played with fuel brands? The Windpro does have a generator tube, so I would have guessed the gas phase change would occur there, not at the canister/valve connection. Not sure there...
  4. As an addendum, I'll be happy to schlep a bunch of stoves up somewhere high and cold to do some hard numbers testing if anybody feels like donating from their arsenal. I have a WL int'l, Simmerlite and Windpro, and maybe still a PR floating around. Would like to add a jetboil, reactor, XGK and the PR to the mix. I'll provide canisters if someone can come up with a gram scale. And maybe that CO meter to see just how dangerous these things are, just for giggles. Testing parameter suggestions? lewis
  5. I hadn't heard of the Reactor's vaunted performance before I got this setup to try. Msr Windpro stove with the canister inverted to get gravity feed. BLOWTORCH! I used a heat reflector around my 1.7L titanium pot and got good efficiency (used little fuel, still fast-Sorry, no hard numbers)and simmer control with it at room temps, but this weekend on Baker at about 9500' and windy lo 30's it kept dying down and required constant attention; banging or twidling the regulator valve seemed to work, as did warming the regulator with my hand. Wondered if the stove was getting enough O2 from below to fire well, or if the reg and/or line were subject to freezing due to canister pressure dif. Got away with melting 3 liters and cooking a dinner with a 110g cartridge, but that's about all she wrote. The stove's seen recent maintenance and seems to work fine now back down in town. Anyone else mess with this kind of setup?
  6. Found an ice tool at the base of Pan Dome Falls at Mt Baker ski area back in Jan or feb, can't remeber date. Call me to ID it. Lewis at (360) 255-1555. Will return it after I do a few more routes ...
  7. Slabs on the Tooth were short of ice yesterday. Imagine that. On the other hand, Death Picnic on N Table above Baker Ski Area was in great shape as of monday. Fat and friendly at the top.
  8. You lost it? I found it. ID it and you can have it back after I've used it on a few more routes . No more than three guesses per person, please.
  9. Haven't climbed it, would love to. I'm in Bellingham and can keep an eye on it. Can you give me a head's up on conditions on Shuksan as of the other day? Looking at hitting Shuksan this weekend. Thanks
  10. I'd be down for it. I'm at lbrwhat@yahoo.com. More about me on my Partners post. How do I reach you?
  11. Hey all, I am an Unemployed Climbing Bum with a fair bit (15 years?) of experience in rock, ice and mixed looking to get more montane in the Bellingham region. If you've got the tick list, I've got the time. I have some secret alpine ice stashes of my own and would love to get after them, provided you don't mind an approach, and also to get onto some of the steep classic winter routes if anybody know what they are. I just haven't done enough research there to build my own drool list. Have wilderness medical/ rescue training and experience, I tele and snowboard, have done wi5 m6 5.11+ trad aid and a few peaks (JoBurg, Baker, Forbidden, Olympus, Rainier (lib ridge), most of Shuksan, Sisters traverse, stuff in the Bugs and Assiniboine. Hoping for some steeper challenges with an experienced partner. Hit me up if your weekdays are free. lewis lbrwhat@yahoo.com
  12. Hey all, I am an Unemployed Climbing Bum with a fair bit (15 years?) of experience in rock, ice and mixed looking to get more montane in the Bellingham region. If you've got the tick list, I've got the time. I have some secret alpine ice stashes of my own and would love to get after them, provided you don't mind an approach, and also to get onto some of the steep classic winter routes if anybody know what they are. I just haven't done enough research there to build my own drool list. Have wilderness medical/ rescue training and experience, I tele and snowboard, have done :sleep:wi5 m6 5.11+ trad aid and a few peaks (JoBurg, Baker, Forbidden, Olympus, Rainier (lib ridge), most of Shuksan, Sisters traverse, stuff in the Bugs and Assiniboine. Hoping for some steeper challenges with an experienced partner. Hit me up if your weekdays are free. lewis lbrwhat@yahoo.com
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