SExNW

Thanks for the update. We decided not to go...too bad, this mountain has been thwarting me for several seasons now. grrr...

Anyone have up to date info on the smoke conditions on Mt. Stuart? Would like to do the W. ridge this weekend, but rangers say it's smokey up there. I'm thinking it can't be THAT bad, but maybe it is.

Thanks for the update Matt. I found a partner and we will be doing the SE rib instead of the gully. Have fun at work!

Is anyone interested in doing Shuksan via the Sulphide or other moderate alpine route this weekend (14-15th)? I'm comfortable on moderate mutli-pitch trad and have glacier experience. I have necessary gear, car, and live in Seattle. PM if interested or email cpchapp@uw.edu. -Craig

Nels, that would be excellent. I have a regular day job, so weekdays generally aren't an option, but should be free over the new year's weekend (Sat.-Mon.). Keep in touch and let's pick out something to climb. craig.chappell@gmail.com

I will not be available for the dates suggested, but would be up for getting out once I return on the 29th from visiting family for the holidays. I have just a couple days ice experience (alpine ice course with AAI), but like nels plenty of trad multipitch experience. Have tools and crampons, ropes, etc, but no screws.

What an excellent day. Congrats. Could you describe the rabbit ears you speak of? From your pic, they look akin to spinner leashes for ice tools (without the "spinning" part).

I second JasonG's recommendation on taking the SE ridge variation to avoid the bottleneck-ing in the gully. Who doesn't want to round out that great approach without placing a few nuts on 5-easy lead?

After taking the course, I must advocate for AAI also. I had a superb guide, Angela Seidling, who dealt wonderfully with her 2 clients that each had vastly different skill sets. I was never bored, and attention was paid to keeping me stimulated. I learned a great deal, had a great time, and got hooked on swinging ice tools all at the same time. MJaso: did you go on the course?

I did; I "rolled" it back to the original tent platform. Maybe 2 full rotations. It blew towards the rocks, not the open glacier...otherwise I thought about putting some rocks in it. But the wind seemed to be dying down compared to what it was in the early/pre-light, so I put it back in place, and figured with the bad white out, that would be the least of your worries. We didn't actually meet, but I enjoyed talking with your friend. C

Anyone interested in the Fisher route over labor day weekend? Assuming the route is still in, which seems likely given the (somewhat) recent posts. I'm also open to other routes that weekend, just want to get out in the alpine.

We're going up next weekend via the Emmons, and want a third (and/or 4th). Sending PMs too..

yup, that was our climb alright. thanks ob!

Yeah, I agree and tried to convince myself of that, but our pitches/belay points didn't fit our topo at all (maybe topo is way lame? http://www.winthropmountainsports.com/inspireprint.html). There was no walking between belays (we only went up 3 pitches due to time constraints), and no detached block. Based on that topo, we were not on Inspiration, even if we scrambled up past the first pitch or two. Huh...hmmm... thanks!

We were on Goat Wall in Mazama last weekend (sans guidebook) looking for the Methow route...found Sisyphus, but couldn't find Methow Inspiration. We ended up climbing a few pitches on a bolted route up the gully to the RIGHT of the infamous lone pine tree. We scrambled to near the top of the gully, climbed one pitch of 5.6-ish, then the route crossed the gully onto a steep(er) face for a short 5.7/8 pitch. The next pitch ~10 bolts felt 5.9. Can anyone tell me what we climbed? The number for Mazama mountaineering is out of order. Thanks.

Glad to hear you boys got back down OK. We were a little worried with the bad weather that day. Also, we found your tent rolled over and upside down when we awoke that morning. I tried to tie it down, but it had no guy lines for anchoring off to rocks. Glad it didn't blow away!

Myself and a partner are looking at the 3rd week in August for Rainier, and are looking for two more folks. We did DC route together last July 4th; thinking about the Emmons this time. We have all needed gear.

I just signed up for the Alpine Ice course with AAI, July 17-24. I've heard nothing but good things about their operation and am really looking forward to the course.

Now that it's cooled off a bit, anybody have knowledge on current route/road conditions?

Eh, we missed it by a day. Camped at Stuart Pass Sat. night and got dumped on pretty good. Too much snow/ice in the morning for our comfort level, so we decided to abort. Nice work getting up the slippery mountain, Drederek!

Wondering if anyone knows how much snow is on Stuart right now? Looking to make a W. Ridge attempt this weekend. Suggestions? Warnings? Encouragements?

A good friend of mine left a silver bracelet behind at our campsite this past weekend in Leroy Basin on 9/27/09. We were camped at the first campsite just past the creek you cross once inside the lower basin. Elevation was ~5700ft. Very nice campsite with 2 fire rings and a lone tree. She left the bracelet on the ground about 5-10ft. behind the tree. This bracelet is very special to her, it was handmade by the Lakota tribe, and she is willing to give a reward for its return. If anyone is going up there this week, we would be grateful if you could look around the site to see if it is there. Thank you.

We spoke with an RMI guide that confirmed the injured man did lose some teeth, but other than that there were apparently no further serious injuries to him. It sounds like you made the right decision because it was indeed very hot on the mountain today.

Just got back from the Muir/DC route today. Above the cleaver there is already significant crevasses that require a traverse over to the Emmons, and then MORE traversing due to MORE crevasses above on the Emmons. The top of the cleaver (the finger?) is already starting to melt out, which apparently doesn't happen till much later in the season, according to an RMI guide we were speaking with (I was not with a guided group, just chatting). He indicated the DC route might be shut down much earlier this year due to all these dang crevasses and potential rockfall on the cleaver. That said, the route had a great boot track with plenty of headlamps to help guide the way...

I really was looking for the underside of a foot to help me out. Grammer nazi....