Craig Pope
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Everything posted by Craig Pope
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would someone email me with some detailed beta on how to get there/?? cjrpope@hotmail.com
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Oh my God!!! Who here from the palouse wants to get together and climb this?? I have all the time in the world, and no obligation to stay alive. . .lol
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I would really like to know who bolted 'rotten crack' at granite, and why they did such a horrible job. until you pull the crux, you will deck off the first three bolts, not to mention the first is completely un-needed, considering I can clip it from the ground. It is the easiest bolted climb there, and the people who are going to be climbing it may not have the discernment not to. that one 5.9 move could cost someone both legs. Also, who the f*** chopped the bols on steriods to Heaven??? You could lead it trad but it would be a dangerous one as well.
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well, the M rating is more of an ecucated guess than anything. Honestly, I have not done that much Mixed, there were about three hard 10.c/d moves before I had to pull 2 Figure 4's, (someone else might not have to, but I am ot that powerful a climber). I've dry tooled a couple 11's and a 12c at granite pointe on the snake river, and thr dry tooling out of the cave on Death by Chocolate was a little easier. that was all I had to draw from. It is going to be getting back to the 20 degree mark in acouple of days, and I am looking for a couple people to repeat it with/without me, and let me know what they think.
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got a couple more photos of the repeat, just to know I wasn't a farse. . .but I am looking for someone to get on it soon, (before it falls off), and collaborate about the grading - primarily pulling the little cave before topping out. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=24688&cat=505 Just curious, how do I put the photos directly in the post, not just the link??
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first ascent [TR] Snake River - Higher Learning (FA) 1/18/2007
Craig Pope replied to kurthicks's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
what about elk river falls, guys??? Oh, FA yesterday at Poe Asphalt between moscow/pullman. . .?? pretty sure it shaped within the last 4-5 days. hard and thin. posted allready. need help with another just to the left. harder thinner. sunday the 4th 10 am. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=24561&limit=last1 -
[TR] Lochsa River (Idaho) - Snowshoe Falls 1/21/2007
Craig Pope replied to kurthicks's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
where on the palouse, looking to meet other climbers who have the time and desire to take full advantage of this awesome season. -
[TR] Lochsa River (Idaho) - Snowshoe Falls 1/21/2007
Craig Pope replied to kurthicks's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Jamin, talking about true first ascents, check out Poe Asphalt at 10 am Sunday the 4th. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=24561&limit=last1 climbed the one on the right. hardest first ascent to date. would love to meed more local climbers. check it out. -
what time of day did you back of Frenchmann?? just curious if it made a difference.
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Trip: Highway 270, WA - "Death by Chocolate" WI 5+ M7 Date: 2/4/2007 Trip Report: Finally I got a first ascent!!! After getting kicked off the 'bouldering curtain' behind Shop-ko in Pullman, we (Lee Neer and I)found these two pieces of Ice hidden behind a new, (6 months old) Rock pit on the way back to Moscow. The climb on the left is for tomorrow morning as early as light will allow, and hopefully will be another successful F.A. The one on the right was option 'B', but looked safer, (relatively, lol), because it was not quite as overhanging as the left one. I'm just excited, sorry. . . .. . .pulling out of the cave scared the shit out of me, and the whole 'climbing on very brown ice' was totally foreign. The one nice thing about the beginning was the amount of 'hooking' available due to the heinously thin/new/overhanging ice, but it meant the burn held off till the end. . . .. . .now to work on some endurance. . . Going to get a couple of second opinions tomorrow, but as far as Big John (hyperspud sports), and I have figured it would go around WI 5+ // or M7-8 and I named it "Death by Chocolate", approx. 60-70ft. short, but oh so sweet. Pun intended. Going to pull a repeat and then a couple second ascents tomorrow morning and hopefully the left climb. . .hopefully. . . (Photos by Amanda Wiebush) CRAIGMAN Gear Notes: short screws approx. 5 and a BD spectre, (or 2), a couple small nuts, and a Trango 'ballnutz' size 3 if you care. Approach Notes: tomorrow
