spike1970

And credit to all the Navy guys but especially Brent McIntyre for swinging by and picking me up. Saturday afternoon was cutting in to beer time for everyone, very rude of me.

movie was taken by Todd

Tim Great pictures I knew there was a reason I was happy to see you. They flew me to Omak and operated. I have plates from knee to ankle and 15 screws. There was multiple breaks to tib and fib. I will pm you my email address then send you the xray shots to add to the story. Having the two of plus Todd and His girl friend made the 6 plus hours much more bearable so thanks again. Jason (kiwi)

I have been using the BD stainless crampons since the spring and scrambled my way up a lot of ice and rock. I am yet to sharpen them. They made some BIG improvements to the heel bail and compared to my Rambo 4 mono points I can buy replacement front points for less than a months wages. I read the Grivel "marketing message" but we all need to keep inmind that every gear maker will promote their own products, materials and processes over those of others.

If I had other options I would be using them!!! Everywhere that is an easy drive and easy approach for newbies are dry, originally I was going for Mystery Roach but it is bone dry last time I was there.

Just another heads up the ACC will be at Cal Cheak again on the 17th and 18th so if you are planning to go there expect a crowd.

Just a warning everyone that the ACC will be out in force at the Cal Cheak crag on the 3rd and 4th of January for some ice climbing intro days. Expect a crowd but we will do our best to not get in the way of others trying to lead.

Got out all day yesterday trying to work some ice and mixed lines on the East side of Mt Seymour. The ice had no adhesion to the rock and made the climbing very difficult at best. Temperature up there was -17C during the day and there are lots of climbs forming.

Crampons: Rambo IV mono points as long as I don't have to walk in them. Cyborgs or Sabertooth depending on conditions and if the climbs are easier or alpine. Leashless: I went and took turn on the same climb the other day with leashes and without over and over on an overhanging route, same climb same tools and everytime I was more pumped with leashes, I think they cut off too much circulation.

3 hours if you walk really slow. 1 1/2 if you travel light.

On the question of Wedge, Parkhurst etc I was there a few weeks ago and the ice is mostly gone from those routes listed so it would be a mixed climb at best with BIG moats and a sprinkle of fresh snow to hide a few pit falls. I have photos if anyone is thinking of going I can send them on for you to take a look at the conditions.

I'm in Vancouver BC and I need to find a new partner for ice this season. I have a truck with heated seats and I'm happy to drive. I'm happy to lead ice and mixed, need someone to follow or lead doesn't matter to me. I climb most weekends through the winter without fail and I need someone reliable that will be there when they say and not pull out at the last minute. Guys only (sorry my wife has no sense of humour). If you are new to ice that is ok as long as you can lead belay.

MEC in Canada rents Scarpa plastic boots and BD sabertooth crampons but only mountaineering axes no ice tools.

Ok, I have a gear problem but I'm going to meetings to try and address it. Ice tools? I have Nomics, Reactors, Vipers and Trangos and have extensivly used the new Cobra carbon fibres. I lead WI5 and mixed to M7. Nomics - fantastic tools for sport mixed (you can't bang in a pin as there is no hammer so no trad mixed) on ice change the pick to a cascade pick and you have a great tool. Reactors - I found they had a habit of bouncing on hard ice, I found that a swing on a sligth diagonal angle worked better. This was fixed in part when I changed the hammers (yes both hammers) to the standard hammer rather than the micro hammer, it gave them better balance and just really helped. One problem I found is that when you swap hands and grip them higher the point of balance changes and it has sent me flying off some stuff that I could easily do with the nomics. Vipers - changed the hammers, I fit a standard adxe when alpine climbing and change to the heavier picks, I use them mostly leasless but they do go well with the leashes depending on the route. Great all round cheap tool but you have to go to the heavy hammers to make them really nice. Changing to higher grip point seems ok. Cobras - Mixed climbed with them in the Rockies last year, again big hammers, great balance, great everything, really liked them but if I bought a pair I think my wife would leave me. Changing grip seems ok, they might be a similar weight but they are a very different tool to the Viper. So if I was starting again I would buy Cobras for a great all round leasless, leashed and alpine everything in one tool. If the budget is the issue then the Vipers are a easy choice. For the pure joy of climbing steep ice Nomics with cascade picks, for pure hard sport mixed routes Nomics with Astro picks. I hope that helps some

Interesting topic. I have lots of Arcteryx gear, so does my wife and climbing partner. It works really well in the mountains here in BC in snow and rain. I feel like it is "cheap" if it is made in China but I can't blame the company for going there. I run a company in Vancouver and have 120+ people working for me. I advertise every week to find more people due to our growth (we are not an outdoor company) and for most jobs even though we pay well, give benifits etc we get no resumes sent to us. The reality is that I'm sure Arcteryx would not be able to find people to willing to work in Vancouver to meet the demands of what they sell even if they were paying $35+ per hour. I know we can't so what choice do they really have if the people here don't want to do the work, I wish I had the luxury of being able to do things off shore.