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cheamclimber

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Everything posted by cheamclimber

  1. um okay...ive hiked this route in the summer enough times to know that I wont need a ladder, skis, two different types of boots, a cam, or arrows.
  2. hey, I recently found a new route into that area from jones lake. you go to the end of the gravel road below the north face of stewart, make a long traverse through the bowl beneath stewart, hike to the southeast ridge and at some piont you can break into the bowl between baby munday and stwart and still. shorter but much more technical than the hike in from airplane creek.
  3. Hey, has anybody climbed the West Ridge of Cheam Peak in the winter via the ridge from Archibald. I just wanted to know if I should expect any extra challenges present in the winter (not in the summer, its a cakewalk then), if there is alot of exposure of not and what gear I should bring. If you can help me, thanks alot.
  4. i forgot to make the date say 2005...back then there was no logging
  5. Trip: Welch Peak - SoutheastFace/East Ridge Date: 9/4/2006 Trip Report: I decided that this would be a nice climb to do on the day before school started again, me and my friends Lorne, Vivian, Allan and Diana left at 6:30 AM and arrived at the Williamson Lake trailhead at 7:45 AM. We took the trail fairly slowly winding up and around the bowl to williamson lake. Welch from the trailhead.The East ridge being the right skyline. I din't really want to climb the South ridge as it is a bit boring and lacking of challenge. We arrived at Williamson Lake a wshort while later and stopped to play in the giant boulders and chase marmots for a while,Allan, Diana and I started up the scree leading to the Welch/Foley col and Lorne and Vivian, While compeletely capable of climbing to the peak stayed behind to hand out at the Lake. I decided to play on some of the ugly cliffs on the south face and then branched back onto the scree, we reached the snowpack on top of the glacier and scoped out the mountain for a fun route. I chose the southeasterly face because it offered the most variety of climbing and better looking rock. I took the lead and and played around on the face while Allan led Diana around the more difficult spots. For the most part the climbing was the higher end of class 3 and a lot of fun class 4 options. One highlight of the climb was when I decided to try to climb this 15 ft near vertical step three quarters up the face, of coure the rock turned out to be crap and I got stuck in the middle of the cliff nad had to back out. We eventually aquired the south summit and started up towards the true summit, at one point the ridge becomes knife edge and while the route is easier on the south side of the mountain, me being me went on to the North side of the mountain (dumb choice)looking way down on the Still I made a tricky really exposed and freaky traverse/ascent to the summit where I met Allan and Diana (who had taken the right way). Not feeling like descending the way we had come up we decided to follow the East ridge down a ways and turn down into the bowl where the snowpak is. Foley and the East ridge of Welch. The East ridge was a really easy descent with an impressive view down the NE face, down climbing from the East Ridge was class 4 with a bit of exposure. We made good time down to the lake with no incidents where we met Lorne and Vivian 9who had unfortunately cut her arm open on a rock) and took the trail to the car. Gear Notes: None...maybe a rope if not confident on rock. (i did it in skate shoes) Approach Notes: Easy approach/short gravel road
  6. haha..the rock reminds me of what i get in the Cheam range, fortunately i dont find it difficult or scary at all. looks like going right up the face would be a blast.
  7. ya in the pic the yellow line is perfect exept it goes straight up at the end. and don..count all your questions confirmed because i have climbed as far as the top of the angel on an attempt of the sub-peak AKA red tower. and what was sais about taking the forest on the right of the drainage creek, its alot easier than the nasty cliffy way up the actual creek (i descended it when i came down from the Angel.
  8. that looks sweet, what mountain is it?
  9. Post your favorite climb and your dream climbs here! My favorite climb is probably the East Ridge of Welch Peak because it is fun and is a good warm-up to start the season with. My dream climbs are:Local-NW face of Cheam Peak International-Matterhorn or Eiger
  10. My friend isn't interested in winter climbing but i would love to do that one day, aparrentlyits really easy climbing on crappy rock once you are above the Angel.
  11. Trip: Cheam Peak - NW Face (in the summer) Date: 8/15/2006 Trip Report: I am posting this trip report on behalf of my friends Lorne Bleakney (aged 16) Allan Bleakney(aged 45)Vivian Bleakney (aged 21) and Dan Sluess (aged 21). I did not actually take part in this climb although I wish I had.The NW face of Cheam Peak had always been on my mind and probably all the other mountaineers in the valley as well, when my friend phoned me on August 16th I was amazed at what they had done, I then decided to post this report. At about 6 AM they awoke and left the house at about 6:30, they arrived at the foot of the mountain 10 minutes later and prepared for their climb. Their route would follow a creekbed that would become the East couloir leading into a giant scree slope dubbed the Angel. From there they would follow gully on the face leading to the North Ridge which they would follow to the peak. The hike through the creekbed was quick and easy taking little over half an hour. They reached a split in the gully and took to the right. The greekbed became a steep couloir consiting of about 2,000 to 3,000 vertical ft of cliff and loose rock. The most difficult and technical climbing took place in the couloir and the reached the Angel about 3 or 4 hours later (Dan was also fairly inexperienced and found the climbing more difficult than the others)The Angel is a short trudge taking little over half an hour, once they reached the top of the Angel they followed the incredibly steep scree towards the North Ridge, the scree became cliff and when thay reached the Ridge they were tired, hungry and still getting used to the exposure. The Ridge was fairly easy climbing for a while nad gradually steepened to near vertical 2,00 ft or so from the peak, they climbed slowly branching off the Ridge and moving onto the face a little with Allan leading for the most part until they reached the West ridge about 100 ft from the summit. They walked to summit and descended the regualr trail down the south face where they were picked up by family. The entire climb up the face took aprox 10 hrs. I intend to do this climb next spring with Lorne who intends to repeat it. Gear Notes: Ropes reccomended. Approach Notes: If you want to repeat this climb you will need to find a small road branching off the highway about 1 km after the bridal falls exit on highway 1. follow this road for 1/2 a kilometer then hike through the forest until you reach the creek (5 mins).Also if you try this route be ready for a lot of exposure and loose rock.
  12. Thanks for the replies, im gonna have to wait until the spring to climb most of the peaks around here right now though.
  13. Has anybody here climbed Baby Munday Peak in the Cheam Range? If so, what are the routes like? My friend said he's done it twice but didn't say much else. Thanks.
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