ScaredSilly
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Posts posted by ScaredSilly
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Multiple forum posts, probably should just following it here:
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11 hours ago, ktarry said:
Seems like a nitpicky edit; all of those routes share the finish, so I see no reason not to list them.
When writing a description one wants concise details that makes it easy for others to find all of the information needed. Which of those three routes would one who is unfamiliar wth the area search for to learn about the finish??? The right side gully is primary route, the others including this one are variations. If there is something relevant about the other routes, such as the Ramp and Pencil joining up then list them as you did.
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Looks a bit popular and crowded ... :-)
Suggestion on the MP description:
Current : From the end of P4, continue up ~500 vertical feet of snow, ice, and easy mixed to the summit. This portion of the route is shared with Right Gully, Ravine, and The Pencil.
Suggested: From the end of P4 continue up remaining ~500 vertical feet of the Right Gully Route to the summit.
That is list the primary route, the fact that other "variations" join in are moot.
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Nice, I have always thought there was good climbing on the more obscure faces on the Sisters.
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Good article ... basically it comes down to being honest if you are going to boast. With the need to claim one's frame (aka mouth masturbation) the boasting becomes bloated.
The first time I "summited" on Rainier, we reached the summit crater but not Columbia Crest. When we were checking out with the rangers they asked if we summited. We said no and that we had only reached the summit crater. The ranger just laughed and said that was where most people stopped and that we had summited. We felt slightly better about our ascent. The next time I "summited" on Rainier I was damn well going make sure I really reached the summit and walked around whole summit crater. Since then there has been only one ascent on Rainier where we finished the route but did not reach one of the three high points.
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Holly shit ... when I was in the Cirque thirty years ago there might have been six vehicles in the parking lot.
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What I want to know is how many different tools he had stashed in his pack.
And but of course time to stop at the pub on the way home.
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As much as I love Hood for its easy access, there is so much adventure climbing to be had on the other volcanos.
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23 hours ago, JasonG said:
The descent down the steep forest, however, felt somewhat barbaric on our middle aged knees (Team combined age of nearly 150 ).
Quit yer bitching youth. My last trip in the Casades the average age was over 60 with one damn near 70.
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Wy'East route is a good route but as said the the rocky area might be more than you want. An alternative is the Mazama (aka West Crater Rim) route. Not really off the beaten path but away from the typical south side clown show. It can have some any danger. If you were going with some more experienced climbers then the Wy'East would be worth considering.
Also study the descent off Hood for white out conditions.
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Having been on Sunshine in October and having caught a fall on ice I can say the same about Copper's Spur in October. The top of the spur was ice. Though solo with a single axe, I was competent enough to climb through it. I will admit that I descended the S. Side and walked around via the Newton Clark back to Cloud Cap cause gong down Cooper's Spur was not going to happen. It was a lovely walk around - so lovely I did again after doing the N. Face gulley.
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Sounds like a fall and tumble into a crevasse:
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Your best bet is to just put it up for sale on on CC and MP. Could also list on fleabay. Here is a prototype from 13 years ago on CC:
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Not sure if folks have been following the fires but Mt. Jefferson is getting hit hard by the Lionshead fire.
https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/7049/
At this point Jeff Park (Whitewater Trailhead) is gone with the fire burning right up to timberline. The Pamela Lake area has not yet been burned. Much the of the Detroit Lake is gone as well.
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We once dumped 3/4 of a gallon into a rental car after a climbing trip. Another time we dumped about a 1/2 gallon into a friends old van when it ran out of gas. Burns hot.
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I have friends in both locations. They all like where they are living and all get out. One thing to consider for the very long term and the unexpected short term is access to health care. I would also be looking at taxes for both, income and property.
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This time of year is known as bowling for climbers.
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Don't you mean a couple of Stinkydog climbers ... besides that is what pickups are for :-)
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Nice job on getting out. And yeah, when starting low taking two days to get to a high camp makes the climb much more enjoyable. Also we have found that for routes that start low and go long that it is worth carrying up and over, coming down the DC. It does require a shuttle but one can stash a car or hitch down - though this summer that might be problematic.
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4 hours ago, Rad said:
Is there a resource that has river volumes so we can see when the big spring melt has tapered? I was in Stehekin last week and rivers were raging. Thinking about Goode but worried the 'creek' crossing will be way too hairy now.
Thx.
USGS has an online database. Just gotta find the closest upstream station
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One needs put a few things in perspective about the classic routes such LR. If one thinks about the FA it was done in August. 50 Classics was written in the late 70s. Since then anthropomorphic climate change has greatly affected many of these routes. In the late 80s when I did LR people regularly did the route through July. Rarely is that the case now.
What makes LR a classic over PR? That is pretty simple. LR has a bit of everything ... glacier travel, a climb to a high camp in a great position, long sections of exposed climbing that does not end until right at the summit. PR has little of that, a long hike to a high camp, at best 2000' of climbing, then a mostly leisurely 2000' stroll to the summit.
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Nice job, before I get too old and decrypted I want to do the traverse.
La Vie Au Bout Des Doigts
in Climber's Board
Posted
I can vaguely remember that short. Gotta remember to blow des doigts after a dip in the chalk.