AlpineMonkey

Somebody here should come up with a agreed upon name so it can be documented. I thought it was quality. Left side was WI4 and right side was WI3, I would guess 45 feet tall?.

That was not Atkins Diet, just so you know. That flow which you were climbing is not in the book.

no, not in yet.

Its all good, everyone has head moments. Its part of climbing. Good to see you guys the other day, I wish we came up and talked to you.

We walked the entire road because of our car, but you can drive all the way up there right now with a 4x4. We spent 4 hours getting there and busted in a beautiful trail with snowshoes so it would be much quicker now. If you were not comfortable with that little flow in quincy though, I wouldn't advise going up there for this one. It was the only climb in and it was scarry plus hard. (Though I can't say I have ever done an ice route that I wasen't scared on.)

No pictures, but stuff is trying to come in. Sad Ce'bu is not even close to being in, but we were able to climb Ice Dreams. The first time I have seen that particular climb being in, its a good route.

Yeah, that was us. Catbird I run into you everywhere (I'm Craig Gyselinck). We were very suprised to see you two climbing there as we thought Quincy dosen't get much action. The potential climbs there area amazing, however. 12 very serious, big flows are trying real hard to come in further east of there. That was not the Atkins diet though. I soloed the route that you guys were on and we lead a little stiffer one to the left of it earyler that morning. Then went and scoped out all the other flows. We thought that perhaps we were the first ones to ever climb that flow that you guys were on, as its not in the book, and were exteremly surprised to see you guys on it when we came back for our packs. Good stuff.

I spent all day on the 2nd in the Quincy area and didn't see you guys I don't think. Was that you guys climbing that little one pitch wall east of ancient lake? And we yelled up to you? If so, that flow is not atkins I dont think??? Its just an unamned drip. We spent all day walking in that area and did see about a dosen major flows trying to come in. It was warm that day and lots of shit was coming down.

Did you actually climb atkins diet? I was there on the second of this month and there were about a dozen major flows trying to come in, but I didn't see any that I could climb. We did end up climbing some one pitch climbs further up the canyon though. Maybe I was looking in the wrong area? Did you see our foot prints?

Drove out there yesterday. Frenchman Falls could be climbed now, but it would be better in a week. The drips to the left and right of Frenchman might be coming in. Fuggs Falls has no ice at all. Running Gear Death Falls is fat and climbable.

Do you guys use red Blue Water slings. I found a nice one below the route. Just wondering, thats all.

It starts off handsized and then turns into a fatty overhanging offwidth.

Climb: Temple Ridge-Various Things Date of Climb: 9/3/2006 Trip Report: The Meteor (Crack goes up the middle of the left overhanging face) At first as if in some weird trance we both sat silently staring at the beast, but then laughter broke out. With a 5.12 ratting I knew I was setting myself into position for a good ass whooping and the feeling of fear was most certainly present. But all aside, it was (and still is) the most beautiful crack I have ever seen. I couldn’t wait to throw my body into it and discover if I was tough enough to make a “send.” One fall and several takes later I found myself bloodied and beat, but standing on the summit. Though I didn’t do it clean, I made sure to work every move free. An amazing pitch it was. On the summit we found a scary rusty quarter inch death bolt for our descent. I wouldn’t trust that thing to hold my closet door on, we instead opted to rap off two knife blade pitons. Judging by how beat up and tired I was I think its really a 5.12+, but that must be decided by a real .12 climber, not me. Comet Spire One rap off the summit of the meteor led to easy ground. We scrambled to the summit of The Comet and down climbed its west ridge. Razorback Spire Having wanted to climb Razorback Spire last year, I was excited to give this point of prominence a try. Ryan wiggled his way up a difficult 5.11 chimney and we quickly found ourselves skirting the “razorback” to touch its summit. The Eagleheads (aka The Owl - I dont know how Beckey confused what looks like an owl with eagles?) Having only one or two recorded routes, we wanted to do something different. Our line weaved two pitches up the middle of the N. face before reaching a prominent dihedral. Three pitches, 5.8, 5.8, 5.10. Black Pyramid We tried to work a N. Facing line but had to bail two pitches up when we got stuck. I was a little disapointed, but theres always another time. Gear Notes: Double set of cams, more big gear would have been nice. Wish we had two 4's, 5's, 6's and tube chalks or something) Approach Notes: Nada Lake

The truth being, I'm really not so burley and I put up a 4 bolt lader. They're removeable bolts and I thought long and hard about striping them on the way down, thinking some ass would take them anyways. But in the end I decided that others might apreciate them and left em. I placed everyone on the top step of my aiders the first day I climbed it solo, there all about 5-6 feet apart and I spent a lot of time and hard work putting them in. I'm now a white trash low life looser. But in the end, I think they were needed. No sense in trying to throw ropes and shit over the top. I found a rope stuck in the crack at the top even.

I'm just f'n burley cappellini, stood up and grabed the big jugs.

Its up Ingalls Creek, Stuart Range kind of. My partner had rapelled down from the top about three months prior to see if the line would go. He told me that he tried to self belay the pitch and would do a move, hang, do a move, hang, the whole way up. He told me it looked like hard 11 or 12. I gave it a onsight try and thought it more like 11-. So I had his word that there was a crack for pro the whole way, but that was it. He had to jug the entire pitch while following. Ive never had so much fun on a pitch.

Thinking about naming the yellow route Clockwork Orange, after a 1962 novel "A Clockwork Orange" by Anthony Burgess, later made into a movie. I don't really have any ideas for the others.

Climb: Orange Tower-Orange Wall (New leavenworth routes) Date of Climb: 7/16/2006 Trip Report: Pete Doorish and I spent a couple days up in the Knitting Needles climbing various rocks. Finally talked about the rattings and we have some disagreement, but thats ok. The yellow and red routes are supper fun, great quality routes. The rock is very clean, lichen free, and perfect cracks. "Rock as good as Prusik," one might say...The other two routes are good, but not as asthetic. Pete stayed up there a few days after me and soloed some more towers, but this is what we climbed together. He thinks the yellow one is a 5.10+ and the red is an 11+. I say there both just solid sustained 10a and 11a. I lead the pitches so I'm sticking with my rattings. All of them were done free and clean with no falls or pulling on gear. We did place one bolt on the yellow route near the top. Wall is between 450 and 500 feet high. Gear Notes: Double set of cams to #3, 1-4 friends. Approach Notes: a long and steep pain in the ass

Yeah, I could make them all out. I would have to go back to my bigger pictures to see who they were, but they were all oldtimers that seem to pop up a lot. Madison, Beckey, McCarthy, etc... I was one who tried it last year .

Climb: Lighthouse Tower-West and East Face Date of Climb: 8/27/2006 Trip Report: With little creativity in mind, Friday afternoon I hiked partnerless bearing a hefty load six miles into Temple Ridge. Saturday I rope soloed (free and aid) to the summit of Lighthouse Tower via the W. Face. The rock was extremely solid, but covered in lichen. I estimate the climbing went at 5.8 or 5.9, A1. From the summit I admired the East Face which looked equally inviting. I snapped a picture of some old tat, then a self portrait from the top showing the summit shadow and retreated back to my car. I planned to return the following day with my friend. The next day I returned with a partner and we did the East Face. Approximately 400 feet high on good rock, this route was a blast. Estimated 5.10 climbing, 5 pitches. Lots of variations exist. Again we summited. Found a register which still had the first ascentists entry. Less then a dozen people have stood on the true summit. A fun quality climb. Gear Notes: Double sets of cams to number 3, a 3.5 and 4. Approach Notes: Easy going but a long ways, 7 miles car to tower.

I'm glad all you Leavenworth hardmen are all so good at betting, guessing, and doubting. Screw all of you. I'm claiming FA and I'm calling it Craig Gyselinck Buttress.

If they did, they would earn my respect and I would call them badass cascade hardmen and bow down to them forever.

Its right above Snow Lake in the Enchantments. I would rate it Grade II, 5.9. Though it could definately be easier or harder, depending on what cracks you followed. It looks like there could be some good winter climbing on the face. Yoder did a couple of winter and rock routes back in the 80's. We did that South facing couloir last winter which was fun too.

Climb: Wedge Mountain-Buttress (Southeast Buttress) - FA Date of Climb: 8/22/2006 Trip Report: Grade II, 5.9 Countless variations could be made, but we made every effort to climb directly up the middle of the buttress. We didn’t always go the easiest way, nor the hardest but climbed the coolest, most aesthetic looking rocks we encountered. And many short pitches later we tackled the final buttress headwall. It was hear that we peered over the usual sights of the Enchantment Peaks and Lakes, content with what we had climbed. My roommates first mountain climb, and a first ascent at that. Gear Notes: Slings, few cams Approach Notes: Follow old logging rd

Near the summit of Snoqualmie Mountain.