AlpineMonkey

Can you post Microsoft Word attachments on here. I made a word document summarizing all of the ice climbs in the Motherload area which some may be interested in.

Found someone for tomorrow, but if anyone wants to get out on monday give me a call please. (Only people I know please)

Going back tomorrow. Would be willing to go back again on Monday if anyone wants to go with me. Give me a call, I posted my phone number in the climbing partners section.

I need a partner for tomorrow or anytime this week. Please only people that I have met or know. If anyone wants to get out give me a call. I can meet you anywhere. I mostly want to go to Strobach. The climbs are fantasticly fat right now, never seen them so good. I don't have acess to a computer anymore so if you want to hook up you need to call me, not email or pm or post on here. Craig 425-691-0090

One week ago my partner and I attempted the unnamed and unclimbed Strobach D on page 220 of the WA Ice book. The begining of the climb begins with a 25 foot free hanging ice curtin, aprroximatly 95 degrees. While attempting the route a loud bang, like a gunshot came from the curtin and a fracture line appeared. I bailed. We returned one week later (12/29/06) to find the hanging ice in a little better condition, resulting in the FA of a fine route. Name/Difficulty: Tower of Power - WI 5 FA: 12/29/06 Length: 50 meters Avalanche Danger: Moderate Approach: The right most flow in the Motherlode Area Route: Ascend the 25 foot 95 degree free hanging curtin leading to moderate ice climbing above Descent: Rappel the route

Thanks people need to post more ice info. Im not sure why I posted this in the Alpine Lakes, if a moderator could please move it to the ice section that would be sweet.

Was able to do Sody Pop: And Rainer Light today: Please, please, please post where you all have been climbing. Any new updates to whats in etc. for Washington. -Craig

Here are some pics from the 22nd. Showing the fatness, all the named climbs are in, many of the unclimbed lines are also in: Climbing Sudden Change of Plan. We also climbed Ice Dreams.

I've got several pm's asking about the approach. We drove to the base of FS 1202 and then walked the entire road. The road was groomed, I assume for xc skiers. We then bushwaked to the base of the cliffs. Our trail would have been covered up by the recent snow.

After trying an unclimbed line and almost having a few tons of ice come falling down ontop of me and my belayer, when the entire pillar fractured, we had a sudden change of plans and went and climbed the route (Sudden Change of Plans). I'm not going to post pictures, but everthing is in now and supper fat. All the ice seems thincker then the pictures in the book. Dropline can be climbed if your a hard ass, as well as many of the other unclimbed lines.

Whats the science behind free standing ice pillars? Are warmer weather conditions better then colder? Any special techniques. Anything to consider. I was trying a route this weekend and the begining had a 12 foot in diameter and 15 feet high free standing pillar. While trying it there was a loud bang like a gun shot and a horizontal crack went through the entire pillar. I carefully got off the thing. Once ice fractures does it heal or is it done for the rest of the season?

Any recent updates for Vantage. I was wondering if maybe the flows to the left and right of Frenchman have come in?

Who gives a shit if it was climbed by Bill or anyone else for that matter. The point is, its a nice fun little wall which is not documented in the WA Ice book. The name dosent matter, it should just be documented so if there is a future publication it can be included. That way the book is more complete. Call it Ice Climb A because its the first one you get to. Location: Quincy Name: Ice Climb A FA: Unknown Difficulty: WI 3/4 Description: 65 or so feet high, top out and belay from top, short walk east to descend, acess from parking lot 1, located above (such and such) lake

Somebody here should come up with a agreed upon name so it can be documented. I thought it was quality. Left side was WI4 and right side was WI3, I would guess 45 feet tall?.

That was not Atkins Diet, just so you know. That flow which you were climbing is not in the book.

no, not in yet.

Its all good, everyone has head moments. Its part of climbing. Good to see you guys the other day, I wish we came up and talked to you.

We walked the entire road because of our car, but you can drive all the way up there right now with a 4x4. We spent 4 hours getting there and busted in a beautiful trail with snowshoes so it would be much quicker now. If you were not comfortable with that little flow in quincy though, I wouldn't advise going up there for this one. It was the only climb in and it was scarry plus hard. (Though I can't say I have ever done an ice route that I wasen't scared on.)

No pictures, but stuff is trying to come in. Sad Ce'bu is not even close to being in, but we were able to climb Ice Dreams. The first time I have seen that particular climb being in, its a good route.

Yeah, that was us. Catbird I run into you everywhere (I'm Craig Gyselinck). We were very suprised to see you two climbing there as we thought Quincy dosen't get much action. The potential climbs there area amazing, however. 12 very serious, big flows are trying real hard to come in further east of there. That was not the Atkins diet though. I soloed the route that you guys were on and we lead a little stiffer one to the left of it earyler that morning. Then went and scoped out all the other flows. We thought that perhaps we were the first ones to ever climb that flow that you guys were on, as its not in the book, and were exteremly surprised to see you guys on it when we came back for our packs. Good stuff.

I spent all day on the 2nd in the Quincy area and didn't see you guys I don't think. Was that you guys climbing that little one pitch wall east of ancient lake? And we yelled up to you? If so, that flow is not atkins I dont think??? Its just an unamned drip. We spent all day walking in that area and did see about a dosen major flows trying to come in. It was warm that day and lots of shit was coming down.

Did you actually climb atkins diet? I was there on the second of this month and there were about a dozen major flows trying to come in, but I didn't see any that I could climb. We did end up climbing some one pitch climbs further up the canyon though. Maybe I was looking in the wrong area? Did you see our foot prints?

Drove out there yesterday. Frenchman Falls could be climbed now, but it would be better in a week. The drips to the left and right of Frenchman might be coming in. Fuggs Falls has no ice at all. Running Gear Death Falls is fat and climbable.

Do you guys use red Blue Water slings. I found a nice one below the route. Just wondering, thats all.