hippos_are_evil

Thanks pauls.

If you see melt water from the glaciers near Picnic Counter, could you let me know? I'm curious if there is any melt for filtering instead of brewing. thanks

How close to the trailhead could you get in your car before the snow?

Black Diamond did some testing: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-to-screamer-or-not-to-screamer

Last year we slid down around 10am and it was soft enough to not be too fast. But it will depend on the temperature as well. It looks like a high freezing level this weekend. Enjoy the sliding, it's like a hydrotube.

we went up this morning and the snow was excellent in the old chute. There were signs of small slough avys in the west crater rim route and then on the way down today there was a climber caught in a small slough a little to left of old chute.

This is true, but it's nice to hear reports of obvious things like sugar snow or whatnot.

If anyone goes up this weekend, please report the snow conditions. I was planning to go up next week after a few days of hot weather. Hoping that the snow can settle some and grant some access without fear of avy.

After seeing this bigass avy with a crown of over 6 feet, I was wanting to know how to determine it is safe again. I would imagine most avy pits don't go down to the layer we saw this avalanche sheer at. Is it a quasi-guessing game at how many melt/freeze cycles it takes to consolidate the snow all the way down?

The water from the pumps is awesome now. I was there last memorial weekend. Camp in the park, don't go to the RV park on the East side, not nearly as pretty. But their showers are ok

I haven't, but I took the course from TMG (http://www.timberlinemtguides.com/) and it was really good.

I'd check the NWAC forecast, it's saying high avy forecast: http://www.nwac.us/products/av_fx_page.htm So at least be smart about going up, don't be the guy who ends up on the news.

Trip: Mt. Tabor Massif Winter Ascent - Western flank Date: 12/22/2008 Trip Report: Team Kermantle decided that after our years of training and preparation it was time to take on the big one - Mt. Tabor in SE Portland. Our day started leaving our bivy to the south on the flanks of Mt. Tabor. We marked the safe passage from the bivy to the climbers trail. I broke trail until we got to a clearing a few hundred yards from our campsite where we consulted our map and compass. Here is Matt jumping across the Bergshrund that just opened up recently. Our first headwall Note the PRG belay: A woman walked by so we had to pause and pose: Keevin almost losing balance Thank god Belaying Matt up Our second headwall Closeup of our mixed trad climbing 2nd pitch conquered Drytooling on the natural features Rest stop at alpine lake on South side of Mt. Tabor The slog up High winds and blustery conditions made it difficult to handle the rappell and traverse on the West side Keevin belaying Matt up past a slab fracture from a recent avalanche We just finished our Mazamas training! After much trial/error we found that the sharp pointy side was better at sticking in the snow. As we were burning daylight it was necessary to strip away all weight and make a dash for the summit! Fast and light! You know what you're supposed to do when someone is going hyperthermic..... Matt and Keevin getting rewarmed The high altitude at the summit is begining to tax our reserves No really, it was hard Summit! The descent was pretty tricky going down an unexplored route on the South Face (nicknamed 'The Skank' by locals) We decided to put in some V-threads and rappelll down This was a very successful first ascent of the Mt. Tabor Massif. While we lost our pride and a box of Cheez-its, we all came back alive. Which after money, women and cars, is the most important thing. -Team Kermantle "Extreme action in the mildest conditions" Gear Notes: 1 Picket 2 Ice Screws 3 cases of Badassness 1 30m twin rope 2 Ice tools 1 Axe 1 Shovel 4 runners 3 Screamers 1 Link Cam (very useful near stairs above dog park) 1 bottle of water based personal lubricant (what happens on the mountain stays on the mountain) Approach Notes: We got lost en route from South Tabor to the Mt. Tabor Masiff itself. Beta: Mt. Tabor is not on the USA map.

Autopano is a commercial version of autostitch. I use it and it is very good. Using the "pano" on your camera is helpful because on some cameras it keeps the exposure the same which is important when doing these.

Hi. Is the route finding tricky to get to the summit ridge? We did Reid Glacier Headwall last year and it seemed kinda funky to find the ridge in the end. I think I know the answer to this one, but, for the mixed sections is it possible to protect in the rock at all? thanks

They said his looop broke because he put a daisy on the loop and that caused wear in the same spot that made it super ratty.

The area around the bergshrund is pretty thin. I was descending and went what I thought was far south of the crack along a boot path and my left leg fell into the bergshrund and dangled in air. So I'd give it a wide berth.

Yo, I'm planning on going out to the Wallowas in August with a buddy for camping and such and was wanting to see if there is any decent rock climbing out there. I'm not needing 5.11R or anything, maybe even low fifth class to practice simulclimbing. thanks!

I thought about leaving them (given the thread a while ago about ganking peoples crap off of routes), or putting them on the ground at the route or something. But I really doubt someone was working the route by leaving their two quickdraws at the top of that route. And I also thought that someone else would take and keep them. Maybe I should've left them, but I was trying to do the right thing. I asked people on the routes near me and they said it had been up there all day.

Howdy, Someone left their two locker quickdraws on top of the 5.4 trad climb just to the right of Cinnamon slab on 5/13. If they are yours, let me know and I can get them to you. I'm in pdx. Someone else left a few nuts in the 5.6? crack in the middle of the climb to the right of that 5.4. If it's yours let me know. Sam

How was the snow near the top? it's been warm lately so I'm curious. We're doing the Luthould Couliour tonight.

Huh? Are you calling someone out?

I think it's important to use Skinner's accident to bring up discussion and to evauluate ones own practices.

I was more talking to Raindawg's comment with the skinner belay loop issue than rehashing anything

Didn't Todd Skinner's belay loop break because he had a daisy girth hitched to it so that it got worn down in one spot and eventually failed? Going with that, is the main issue with putting a biner through the tie-in points that it can get tri-axial loaded in certain situations?