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Madcap

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Gumby (1/14)

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  1. It is worth noting that the decision reviewed a district court denial of a motion for preliminary injunction. Review of a district court's discretionary rulings are limited and there are particular requirements for imposing injunctive relief. The court declined to order injunctive relief. The court did not foreclose a necessity defense: "Here, although we ultimately conclude that Raich is not entitled to injunctive relief on the basis of her common law necessity claim, we briefly note that, in light of the compelling facts before the district court, Raich appears to satisfy the threshold requirements for asserting a necessity defense under our case law." Raich Op.@3039. "Although Raich appears to satisfy the factual predicate for a necessity defense, it is not clear whether the Supreme Court's decision in (U.S. v. Oakland Cannibis) forecloses a necessity defense...Raich's necessity claim is best resolved within the context of a specific prosecution under the Controlled Substances Act, where the issue would be fully joined, we do not attempt to answer [it] here." Id. @3041 Raich brought her case prospectively, and with tremedous courage. She has not been arrested or charged by the federal goverment and essentially the 9th Cir. is saying a necessity defense has to be ruled on in the context of an actual prosecution as opposed to an advisory ruling. Madcap
  2. Interesting to read others' impressions. I guess my vote goes first to Liberty Ridge and then to Slesse for their overall appeal and "big route" feeling, rather than the quality of climbing alone. I like Stuart next for the excellent rock and fun climbing. For me it is more or less a toss-up between Price Glacier and Forbidden, both are very aesthetic. I suppose the nod goes to the Price just because of the mountain it happens to grace and its character as a "north face" route. While "last" on my list, I thought Liberty Crack was a fantastic route that deserves its place on a list of classics. Can't argue with the quality of routes like Rebel Yell either, but I haven't found another route that, overall, would cause me to displace one of the current 6.
  3. No don't have notes on every climb but happened to keep them for this one. Wouldn't bother to post but for the specific request. Its a fun climb, hope I didn't spoil any of the adventure.
  4. For what it is worth here are my notes from a 2002 climb. 1.About 60m up blocks ledges and a faint crack system (4th class, length dependent on snow level at base) 2.Then a 5.7 or so pitch in a small right-facing dihedral then some flakes and blocks up to the main left-facing dihedral. 3.5.9 Pitch up the dihedral with jamming tending wide 4.Another 5.9 pitch up the dihedral where the crack narrows and there is more stemming and laybacks finishing with a steep move to the right over some blocks to join the continuation of the dihedral. 5. Wide jamming and stemming, 5.9 ish 6. Starts thin, then up flakes rounded grooves and cracks to a large ledge (5.9) 7. 5.6-5.7 cracks on less steep terrain just to the right of the butress crest 8. Wide, rounded cracks and grooves right up to the summit.(5.9) If I recall the last move steps right over the summit cairn. The climb was clean and very enjoyable when we did it. We had 60m ropes and I recall that we could not string the last 2 pitches together. (We tried and ended up simulclimbing them) Enjoy, if you are up there in late July perhaps we'll see eachother.
  5. We did not ascend the standard gully (which was easy snow the whole way we took it in descent). Went up what I believe is the SE Corner route (far edge of the pyramid towards Hell's highway. On that ascent I was lucky enough to get tagged with some icefall, and narrowly missed having my head taken off by a random cannonball rock wizzing down from above (no other parties above). Thus the somewhat tongue-in-cheek quip attributed to me. Central gully no problem.
  6. Haw! Jibe well-taken and deserved. I had Layton's words ringing in my ears as I had read his great trip report before we went to take shot at Nooksack. I chuckled in shame the whole way across... My cap's off to your bold and visionary crossing....
  7. We climbed the Price Glacier last weekend. Great shape, no cornice issues, no problem with the rock bypass of the 'schrund. Very enjoyable route. Expect one of my partners will be doing a full-blown report when we get the photos, but thought I'd post this note in case some of you were considering whether to give it go this weekend.
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