geoff
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Posts posted by geoff
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Yes. Dude says that is why he bolted the climbs.
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Safety; cracks dirty and shallow; accessibility.
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Top of the Peregrine Traverse.
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Birds is the last obvious line on the very left side of the crag, from top, near the homes.
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Work. Still slight residual pain in hand but nothing to prevent me from hurting it more.
TR - well, it is not my forte and this probably ain't the place but way out in the middle of the Umpqua National forest is Acker Rock. It is about 5 hours from PDX, if you don't go through Silverton, Staton and then back to Salem before getting on I-5 - Kyle?.
This placed my bro and I at Green Burrito in Eugene around 9pm. We made it to camp outside of Tiller, OR by midnight and slept near the trailhead.
A short hike to the base of the Peregrine Traverse and we were climbing by 8:00am. 11 or 12 pitches later we were on top. All by 1:00pm. There is a lookout tower on the summit along with the coolest crapper ever -well my buddy saw a floating one on a lake in Cali-pretty cool also. I was alright but Kyle checked it out. Photos to follow.
There was also a geocache and summit register. We signed the register and examined cache. I left four Cheetos but took nothing. Then an easy walk back to the car.
After a much needed bath in a nearby stream we were off to summit the Old Man of the North Umpqua. However, the road was closed and offlimits. After considering swimming or walking across the river or borrowing a boat to ferry us and our gear we decided McKinley Rock does not look too far away. And, if you are a bird that is probably true.
But, if your in an old Volvo it takes about an hour and half, if you have proper directions. We didn't but they are posted on the Greg Orton website and there are signs pointing the way. Even so we could not believe we were headed the right way. But after an hour of driving up a gravel road dodging big chunks of rock, and hitting a few, we arrived at a water basin with no sight of the Rock.
However, upon closer inspection of the Longridge Trailhead we noticed warnings on a sign that actually meant something to us. Bring extra water and two ropes. Well, we weren't going carry two ropes but knew we were on to something. So we set up camp eventhough I was not that interested in sleeping in my tent because we had just seen a bear. Sure, I know they are out there but to see one, near our camp in the evening seemed to increase my fear.
Anyhow, no mauling and the next morning after another short hike, we were surprised to find ourselves at the base of a 400ft chunk of rock. Quickly finding our intended route, we set out on Easy Street. Easy? Sure, but there is some serious distance between the last bolt below the P1 anchor and the previous one. Be prepared to free solo. Otherwise, on top before too long. Again, signed the summit register, read notes on the new rap route but opted for a tree and walk back around to the start.
Climbed first pitch of Testosterone Monkey and was surprised to find no rap. So, we added a quicklink to one bolt and a piece of webbing we had cleaned off the summit to the other and made our own.
Back to the car, to the N. Umpqua for bathing and back to PDX by 11pm Sat.
Number of other climbers - 0. No people at all at the climbing areas.
Finally, not to start a war or anything, but the routes were protected with fixed anchors, except for a #3 Cam placement high on the Traverse.
Photos just posted in the gallery
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Never thought about it much until one night I found myself camped out on a fairly decent sized ledge about 300 ft up a wall not too far from town. It already had another group planning to stay but there was plenty of room for both of us. Anyhow, late at night one of the guys from the other party informed me that the world was coming to an end. Well, what isn't? But, he meant soon. At any rate, I just inquired as to whether or not he thought it would happen tonight- on the ledge. I selpt easier when he said it was still a few years off.
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My brother and I once "attempted" to climb Snake Dike in early September. We planned, packed, flew to Sac, drove to Yos and got a spot in Camp 4. In the morning we were able to view the start from the Valley floor. And, based on our struggle to carry our gear from the car to the camping spot-it was near the back, we decided we had little chance of even making it to the base of the route.
We did, however, conquer Aunt Fanny's Pantry and meet its namesake.
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No doubt, safe to humans and animals as soon as it is dry. But, do not eat the oak.
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Anyone headed today?
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If those are the Greg Orton books then they're alright. There have been a lot of updates and such and I think there is a new series of books.
Recent trip reports, not like mine, seem to have the more detailed info.
Let me know if you have something specific in mind.
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Sounds good. Let me know if you can make it.
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Work. Still slight residual pain in hand but nothing to prevent me from hurting it more.
TR - well, it is not my forte and this probably ain't the place but way out in the middle of the Umpqua National forest is Acker Rock. It is about 5 hours from PDX, if you don't go through Silverton, Staton and then back to Salem before getting on I-5 - Kyle?.
This placed my bro and I at Green Burrito in Eugene around 9pm. We made it to camp outside of Tiller, OR by midnight and slept near the trailhead.
A short hike to the base of the Peregrine Traverse and we were climbing by 8:00am. 11 or 12 pitches later we were on top. All by 1:00pm. There is a lookout tower on the summit along with the coolest crapper ever -well my buddy saw a floating one on a lake in Cali-pretty cool also. I was alright but Kyle checked it out. Photos to follow.
There was also a geocache and summit register. We signed the register and examined cache. I left four Cheetos but took nothing. Then an easy walk back to the car.
After a much needed bath in a nearby stream we were off to summit the Old Man of the North Umpqua. However, the road was closed and offlimits. After considering swimming or walking across the river or borrowing a boat to ferry us and our gear we decided McKinley Rock does not look too far away. And, if you are a bird that is probably true.
But, if your in an old Volvo it takes about an hour and half, if you have proper directions. We didn't but they are posted on the Greg Orton website and there are signs pointing the way. Even so we could not believe we were headed the right way. But after an hour of driving up a gravel road dodging big chunks of rock, and hitting a few, we arrived at a water basin with no sight of the Rock.
However, upon closer inspection of the Longridge Trailhead we noticed warnings on a sign that actually meant something to us. Bring extra water and two ropes. Well, we weren't going carry two ropes but knew we were on to something. So we set up camp eventhough I was not that interested in sleeping in my tent because we had just seen a bear. Sure, I know they are out there but to see one, near our camp in the evening seemed to increase my fear.
Anyhow, no mauling and the next morning after another short hike, we were surprised to find ourselves at the base of a 400ft chunk of rock. Quickly finding our intended route, we set out on Easy Street. Easy? Sure, but there is some serious distance between the last bolt below the P1 anchor and the previous one. Be prepared to free solo. Otherwise, on top before too long. Again, signed the summit register, read notes on the new rap route but opted for a tree and walk back around to the start.
Climbed first pitch of Testosterone Monkey and was surprised to find no rap. So, we added a quicklink to one bolt and a piece of webbing we had cleaned off the summit to the other and made our own.
Back to the car, to the N. Umpqua for bathing and back to PDX by 11pm Sat.
Number of other climbers - 0. No people at all at the climbing areas.
Finally, not to start a war or anything, but the routes were protected with fixed anchors, except for a #3 Cam placement high on the Traverse.
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Not dying. Just a bit harder to locate since the move.
Still can't climb though. Maybe Thurs.
Last Thurs. was on my way to Acker Rock for the big Traverse and then on to McKinley Rock for a run up Easy Street. Cool places if ya never been.
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I'll go. Where? When?
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It wasn't you. Just my total lack of crack skills. Come to think of it though someone was telling me Blackberry Jam was an 8.
But, I can belay. Sorry I missed the party.
Kyle and I had planned on Squish for a day or two but rain sent us for a hike to "look at" Stein's Pillar and then toward Smith Rock where we climbed the First Kiss. Good route. Thanks for the heads up.
Nice photos.
Still going tonight?
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I was trying to read on but this one.... Are you f'ing kidding?
Ever been to a strip mine? Ever used any of the products that come from a mine.
Ever seen a clear cut? Ever used any wood cut in such a way?
Have you ever driven on a road? Forget the road, you got a car?
You eat meat?
Please, when you compare the vandalism that you beset on momma nature every single day to a few bolts in a rock in the woods, the fact that you need a new basis for your rant should be clear.
You think you are right? Then get your like minded folks together and work within the system. If not, you're just some thug, probably getting old, and upset that "things just ain't the way they used to be." Life sucks, get a helmet-or not. Clip the bolts or not.
You want more risk and uncertainty? There are plenty of places you can find that. Try your extremist environmentalist crap in the open and you will find both.
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Maintenance workers at the park said the climber was taken to a life flight helo near the boat ramp around 4p. Apparently, there were lots of police, fire and ambulance and a helicopter. We were on the ledge taking a break and somehow missed the whole thing.
Sometimes life flights are only precautionary due to the distance to a major hospital. Hopefully, the climber is alright.
I don't know if he was on FFA but Jim told me that the first part is very dangerous and there is no pro. That was enough to keep me off it. Anyone have any other opinions of the climb?
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My left hand isn't quite healed from the last time I climbed with you or I would have been there. I've been restricted to 7 and 8's.
Maybe next time.
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Anyone have any information on this thing?
I spent Saturday hiking trail #458 up and down Lookout Mountain. I saw many interesting cliffs of solid rock, also some on Flagpoint LO Road above Bulo, but nothing fitting the vague description in Olsen's guide.
Thanks.
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Silver Bullet it is. See you there. I have a white Tacoma.
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I can make it by 5:30. What wall?
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I'll go too but have to leave by 7p.
What do you ride?
in Spray
Posted
A Salto, Jekyll and T-6.