octavius

I've tied in a few times with Mizuki, both alpine and cragging, but to me she was more than a climbing partner. Mizuki was a friend, with whom I shared adventures beyond climbing. While her reputation with many was that of a reserved uber climber, she had another side that some of us were lucky enough to experiance. I'd like to share some of those none-climbing memories. She came to my latest Halloween party, one of the first to arrive and one of the last to leave, dressed as a hot nurse. She had a less appropriate word for it, that she would announce with a mischievous laugh. Half way through the party, when I found my bottle of Patron Silver was empty, I learned Mizuki (and others) had just discovered a liking for good tequila. She said she would never drink the cheap stuff again. Later that year, Mizuki introduced a group of us to what she considered the best sushi in Seattle at her favorite Japanese restaurant. All dressed up, she cringed ever so slightly (though hid it well) when I ordered spider rolls. She never judged her friends too harshly for their less cultured tastes. She simply smiled encouragingly and passed me the eel. Like some that prefer the holidays spent through activity with friends rather than family obligation, she joined us for chirstmas eve skiing. She was tireless, getting in run after run, then ready to go out for food and drink when the lifts closed. That season also found Mizuki leading a group of us to places like the Jazz Alley, and the Sorento, as she challenged us to keep up with her unique, opulent, and striking urban wardrobe. Nobody missed her when she entered a room, showing most Seattleites that clothes did not need to be understated. I started writing a fairly amateur screenplay this year. Most of my climbing friends had parts, and had agreed to help make it if I wound up filming it myself. I held off asking Mizuki, because the part I had in mind for her was probably the most challenging of all, but also the part that many would be insulted if asked to play, the part of the antagonist witch. I finally worked up the courage to ask her, and she agreed with enthusiasm that of course she would play that part. She couldn't wait to get started. Her bright smile sealed the deal. Many live this life as though it is how we demonstrate worth for a next life. Mizuki lived this life as though she was already in the next life, each day to be celebrated and enjoyed to perfection. Don't be surprised this year, if you find a bottle of Patron Silver on the summit of some alpine destination, probably Eldorado or Glacier Peak. If you find it, enjoy a shot in Mizuki's memory. - Glenn

A memorial announcement for Mizuki has just been posted in the Events forum for Thursday 5/24. Link to Mizuki's memorial announcement

Memorial to Celebrate the Life of Mizuki Takahashi Thursday, May 24, 2007 7:00pm - 9:00pm Tahoma Room Mountaineers Clubhouse 300 Third Ave West Seattle, Wa 98119 A slideshow is being prepared for the event. If you would like to contribute photos of Mizuki, please send them to Joe Binder at binder.joe@gmail.com by 12 noon on Thursday 5/24 or bring them with you on a disc or thumb drive to the event.

I like that idea. I made this simple climbing video featuring Mizuki last summer, at exit 32. (Turn down your computer volume if you don't like loud music.) 5jit535bOFg

Yes. See the Alaska forum for more info.

I'm stunned by this news and at a complete loss for words tonight. Here is a photo of Mizuki from a climb of Glacier Peak this past summer.

I don't see any tricams in there.

Do people place wands anymore? A couple of friends and I did Baker last year on June 21st... midweek, nobody else around except for a group doing crevasse rescue practice low on the glacier; part of the reason nobody was around was the weather forecast showed some chance of cloudy weather. We took 75 wands (25 each, very light weight) and placed them every 55 meters on the Easton glacier... they thought it was overkill at first, but I talked them into it since we were all pretty new for this kind of trip. The trip up was clear as can be, but we came down in a partial whiteout. We were all glad we had the wands in place. We had maps, compasses, and GPS too, but for the trip down the wands were all we needed.

Does Fred Beckey drive a Subara with a Trango sticker on the back window? (and no other climbing stickers). Was driving home Tuesday, going north on I-5, and about to take the Lake City Way exit, when this older Subaru, going about 15mph slower than everybody else on the road, changes lanes directly in front of me. Anyway, I saw the Trango sticker and thought... hmm... a climbers rig. Whomever was driving, I could not see their head above the drivers seat. I get to the part of the Lake City Way exit where it becomes two lanes and I go to speed by, because this driver is now going like 20mph... as I pass, I look over and see this tanned, swarthy looking character, with a bright yellow old time looking transistor radio held to his left ear. Hmmmm... anyway, just curious, kinda looked like photos I've seen of Fred, but I don't know if he still drives.

I've never ventured more than 600 feet up that slope with a group over 12...

I don't think Source Lake is in the Wilderness, according to that map. But I don't really know the permit process since I don't organize these trips, I just instruct when asked. You can call the club if your curiosity warrants that much effort. I imagine the same issue is faced by BoeAlps, the WAC, and the many other clubs that take groups larger than 12 outside.

Nice pics, but let me help you with a couple of corrections to your avy story... I was one of the instructors in the group that day, though I wasn't one of the trip leaders. While it may be common for skiers to do the loop you describe, I'd say it is just as common for travelers of all types (skiers, snowshoers, hikers) to travel the other direction; and regardless of direction, it is possible for these travelers to be on that slope below the slide you started. It just happened that on this particular day and time, it was us. The slope in question is not East of source lake, but in fact North of the lake, and a bit West, also it isn't exactly a cliff, more of a hill with a very short steep section above it that is cliff like, almost all of which is treed. All of the travelers we saw that day, skiers, snowshoers, and hikers, made their way up or down that hill just West of us... even those approaching from above that didn't know we were there. Your group was the only one that skied into the trees that far East and South of the route the rest used. All weekend, the only slide that occurred on that slope, was the slide you caused. Most of your slide was stopped by the fact that the slope was not steep and had many trees. of the 50 or so people there, 12 of us were under the slide, and we quickly moved to the side. Once we determined the slide was caused by skiers, we continued with our days instruciton, with no further issues. I had snowshoed up there a few weeks prior. Between that trip, and this trip, the only ski tracks I saw that far East and near the 'cliff' were yours. Given the fact that you did not know that this slope was North of the lake, perhaps you were a bit off your planned route? I've attached a link to a map for your perusal. http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?lat=47.45585&lon=-121.45048&datum=nad27&u=4&layer=DRG&size=l&s=25 Normally the club instructs up in Edelweiss bowl, but since the ski area was still open, had to resort to the Source Lake area. Of all of the slopes in the Source Lake area, that particular was the safest. As Gary pointed out, the club would like to get more of the instructors Avy L1 certified, several of the instructors there that day are L1 certified. Kindest Regards, Octavius

Thanks everybody. Yeah I plan to swap a lot of leads this season, I did my first aid lead a couple of weekends ago at city park and got to bounce test plenty of nuts (in the pouring rain no less). I'll get in more practice just placing gear near the ground and bouncing testing it. I'll do more research into the 2 rope method... I just don't see it as a big hassle as long as it is done right and setup bomber safe.

I've had experienced leaders check my placements, and I agree that is a great part of the process of learning. This thread started because I was looking for a specific thread/post I had seen here last year and was hoping others might recall it and who wrote up the section on training by falling on pro, with a fixed toprope backup. I agree you could just stand on the ground and test individual pieces, but that is different than placing gear as you climb and getting the time down on the entire climb. My placements are very solid, I'm just trying to get faster at it and know that for me part of what is taking a while is that I spend a lot of time looking for the right piece, the perfect placement for it, and checking it a bunch of times before I move on. Going solo, for me, seems like a way I can train at my own pace, and just work on some routes over and over again, and practice getting faster at it... and not have to think about weather my partner is getting bored waiting for me. Also, until I've actually fallen on a piece, even if an experienced leader tells me it was a great placement... I'm the kind of person what won't believe it 100% unless I've found out for myself. [edit] Just found that a kind soul sent me a PM with the thread/post I was recalling: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/565409/page/0/fpart/2 My memory of the section wasn't perfect, which was one of the reasons I wanted to read it again.

I don't recall this as being a technique used by people that don't know anything about gear placement, rather a technique to get faster at setting secure placements that the climber can trust.

Makes sense. I thought the thread had lots of insight, which is why I want to find it.

I read a thread/post here last year describing a trad lead training technique where the climber was rope soloing with a fixed top rope backup, and placing trad and falling on it to better learn how effective placements are. Does anybody remember this thread/post? I've used search a dozen times now to try to find it but am having no luck. Regards, octavius

Was down in Joshua Tree over the holidays and hung out with Catbirdseat, FenderFour, and Oscar (does Oscar have a handle? ... o-scar would be cool). This is Oscar climbing Bearded Cabbage; thanks to FenderFour for the extra footage for the split screen and the other angle. WbhJ68Z-TMg

Great suggestion about renting from 2nd ascent... didn't know they rented boards. I really don't mind snow shoeing, but I don't want to drag down the rest of the group... I suppose another option is to just get a regular board and rent a splitter for those B/C trips this year.

Its time for a new board and I'm considering a splittboard but realistically I'll probably be using my new board in lift serve areas most of the time this year... never done any BC SB'ing but I want to try it, and I do have a couple years of BC Tele under my belt, own a tranceiver, etc. Thinking for BC SB trips I can just do the snowshoe thing... any reason why this is a bad idea other than the fact that I'll be slower than everybody else in the group? For seriously long BC treks... I can just do Tele instead.

Nice. Reminds me of Phil's work on www.mtnphil.com any connection?

Nice work.

Thanks for the suggestions and linking the vids right into the thread. I shot this with a Panasonic PV-GS180, which is the lightest and smallest 3CCD camara out there at the moment. Not super high resolution but good enough for YouTube. I agree that a higher end camera would be better for serious work, but also a lot heavier to haul around... and a bigger loss if you drop it :-/ I'm still learning. What editing system do you use for your vids? Are they posted anywere?

I just finished my 2nd homemade climbing video and posted it on YouTube. Both of these videos are of friends climbing at exit32 (Mizuki and Anne). Neither climb is extreme (just 5.9/5.10 sport stuff), this was more a learning experience for me in placing myself around the climber and getting the footage, and then editing it with Premiere and adding some tunes. I'm curious who else here makes climbing videos? Some challenges I faced included... sitting on rappel in my painful harness while filming (need a better harness), figuring out if I should stay in a fixed location, or try to move around the climber.... which might interrupt their climbing. I'm thinking multiple cameramen are probably needed for quality footage and filming a single climb in a single shot, or else having the climbers do the route multiple times for different shot angles. Feedback welcome.

Those are cool photos! ...thanks for posting them.