Dan_Miller

This film by Steve Marts is entitled Fairweather because it depicts a climb of an un-named 10,000' peak in the Fairweather Group. I have a VHS copy of the film which I cherish. The film is at once both joyful and somber. Al Givler and Dusan Jagersky were my original climbing instructors, and mentors in the mid 1970's when I began to climb. Their death nearly caused me to reassess the whole alpine climbing notion. I've not been able to quit in all the intervening years apparently.

Very good work guys! No doubt one to remember. There's a reason it's truly one of the Fifty Classics in NA. Thanks for the fine TR.

From this morning's NPS Morning Report: North Cascades National Park (WA) Four Climbers Rescued In Two Incidents The park’s search and rescue team recently responded to two separate mountaineering accidents, evacuating four people from remote mountain peaks. On Friday, July 13th, after they’d successfully navigated through the remote northern Picket Range and climbed several peaks, a party of three climbers requested assistance. One of the three hiked out to report that his two partners had been hit and injured by falling snow from a steep wall above their camp in a basin below Luna Peak. Rangers evacuated the injured 29-year-old male and 29-year-old female climbers via a National Park Service-contracted helicopter from HiLine Helicopters to Marblemount, where the man was transferred to a local hospital by ambulance and the woman was released. On Saturday, July 14th, a party of seven was climbing the south side route of Sahale Peak. One member of the party inadvertently pulled out a large boulder, which struck him and then a member of the party below. Another member of the party hiked to Cascade Pass and contacted a wilderness ranger who launched a rescue response. Climbing rangers approached the two injured climbers on foot from Boston Basin and by helicopter from Marblemount. The critically injured 24-year-old woman was moved from the glacier by a National Park Service-contracted helicopter from HiLine Helicopters in a short-haul maneuver, and then transferred to an Airlift Northwest medical helicopter at a road site. She was flown to Harborview Medical Center in Seattle and was reported to have multiple fractures but was in stable condition. The 25-year-old male climber, who had minor injuries, was also flown out of the backcountry, but was released. Digital images of the Sahale Peak rescue are available for download and use at the park’s Flickr site. [submitted by Charles Beall, Acting Superintendent]

Ueli's envy no doubt.

Richard T.Bouche, DPM The Sports Medicine Cinic. Richard T. Bouche, DPM Frequently a Seattle area Top Doc.

Hydropel sports ointment may be of some real benefit, it is for me (admittedly fairly blister prone).

Superlatives fail to express it.

Thanks for a fine TR on what has always for me been a great route on a big snowy/icy mountain, even if it was somewhat of a wallow-fest.

Once again, today's (Thursday, 05/10/12) official opening announcement from WSDOT's Jeff Adamson and Dustin Terpening. Seven weeks of great work! Now we can have fun, and the Methow Valley can prosper. Here's the official word! Washington State Department of Transportation - NEWS North Central Region – PO Box 98, Wenatchee, WA. 98807-0098, 509-667-3000 FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE May 10, 2012 Contact(s): Jeff Adamson WSDOT Communications 509-667-2815 (Wenatchee) Dustin Terpening, WSDOT Communications, 360-757-5997 (Burlington) SR 20 North Cascades Highway reopened today at noon The second latest opening in 35 years. WENATCHEE – It took a full seven weeks to find the North Cascades Highway beneath what, in places, added up to 60 feet of snow. Crews and drivers celebrated at noon Thursday, as both east and west side gates swung open just in time for a forecasted sunny spring weekend and Winthrop’s annual 49’er Days festival. Washington State Department of Transportation crews began the clearing process on State Route 20, the North Cascades Highway, on March 26, two and a half weeks earlier than La Nina allowed crews to start last year. Despite 8 more feet of total snow this winter and an extra day of clearing work, crews met their target opening date. “The crews are really pleased that the highway is open for this weekend’s 49’er Days festival in Winthrop,” said Don Becker, WSDOT Twisp Maintenance Supervisor. “We all live up here and know how great it will be to have the highway open this year.” The noon reopening allows crews necessary time to "sweep" the entire 37-mile winter closure zone for sand, rocks and debris between milepost 134, seven miles east of Diablo Dam on the west side of 4,855-foot-high Rainy Pass, and milepost 171, nine miles west of Mazama below 5,477-foot-high Washington Pass. "Opening the gates at noon gives us the margin we need so the first drivers over the passes make their trip safely," Becker said. The first drivers on the North Cascades Highway today found the road conditions bare and dry or bare and wet across the entire route with high temperatures in the 60s and a freezing level of 6,500 feet. Forecasts call for even better weather through the weekend. Today’s reopening is the fifth latest since the highway first opened 40 years ago, on Sept. 2, 1972, but three of those late openings were recorded in the four years immediately after 1972. Last year’s May 25 reopening was the second latest on record. The latest reopening was recorded on June 14, 1974; it reopened on May 16 in 1975 and on May 21 in 1976. Two years ago, in 2010, crews opened the road on April 16 after only three and a half weeks of clearing work. The highway closed for the winter on Nov. 15, 2011. It typically opens between the last week in March and the first week in May. The earliest opening ever was March 10, 2005. One drought year, four years after the highway first opened in 1976, it remained open all winter. For more information, including a history of opening and closing dates, visit the North Cascades web page www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/passes/northcascades ###

Here's what we've been waiting for, and it will occur in about two hours. A brief update (Thurs., 05/10/12) from WSDOT's Jeff Adamson. To slow down the flow of phone calls - Yes, the North Cascades Highway is opening at noon and it is suitable for vehicles of all types including motorcycles and pickups pulling fifth wheels. More later. Jeff

Today's update (Mon., 05/07/12) update from WSDOT's Jeff Adamson and Dustin Terpening. Hi all, East met West about 11 o’clock this morning at Bridge Creek (MP 159.5)! I still can’t give you a specific day or time for the reopening, but midday on Thursday is looking better and better after today. The two Kodiak snow blower operators – Bob Hopfield from the west and Jesse Gurney from the east, completed a single cut through the 1-1/2 miles that separated them in about four hours. Yes, there are photos posted on flickR taken by Twisp Supervisor Don Becker who then used his pickup to give you a feel for just how wide a single cut really is (or isn’t!) and how deep some of the drifts were in the neighborhood below the Whistler Mountain avalanche chutes. www.flickr.com/photos/wsdot/sets/72157629681048559/ The rest of the next couple days will be devoted to the widening, initially the section opened today from Whistler (MP 160.5) to Rainy Pass (MP 157). There’s still pull-outs that need to be cleared, ditching that needs to happen so the melting snow doesn’t flood the highway and some guardrail that suffered slide damage that all has to happen before the reopening. Wednesday, the avalanche crew is going to do their thing to bring down any snow still in the chutes that three days of warm weather may have loosened. It’s likely the two can meet on Monday, if weather and equipment cooperate, but the progress points are only a single snow blower wide (about 8’), so there’s lots of widening, ditching and guardrail repair before it’s ready for traffic. While it’s legal for bicycles to use the highway because they’re not licensed motor vehicles – crews from both sides tell us it’s getting crowded up there (heaviest traffic on the west side) and it’s a big concern for our operators since bikes are hard to spot in the mirrors of a loader or a blower. The widening, ditching, guardrail and jersey barrier work is going on all day Tuesday and with avalanche blasting planned for Wednesday (along with the necessary clean up) – this is just not a good time to bicycle the North Cascades – Wait for Thursday! As I said Friday = Think cinnamon rolls and 49er Days and keep your fingers crossed! jeff.adamson@wsdot.wa.gov (509) 667-2815 dustin.terpening@wsdot.wa.gov (360) 757-5997 For you Pink Floyd (the safety flamingo) fans – Zoe at the Bellingham Herald did a story about him: http://www.bellinghamherald.com/2012/05/05/2509685/plastic-flamingo-warns-of-danger.html

Not to be an overly nervous Nellie but, as we head into a relatively fair weather weekend some of us (me included) planned some backcountry skiing. This special notice from our friends at the Northwest Avalanche Center may be of concern to many. Detailed Avalanche Forecast Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center Seattle Washington 1308 PM PDT Fri May 04 2012 This forecast applies to back country avalanche terrain below 7000 feet and does not apply to developed ski areas or highways. Please note that regular forecasts for this season have ended. Special forecasts will be issued this spring only if unusually severe avalanche conditions develop. This special forecast applies from Friday May 4th through Tuesday May 8th and will be updated as conditions warrant. Zone Avalanche Forecasts Olympics, Stevens Pass, Snoqualmie Pass, White Pass, WA Cascades near and west of crest - north of Stevens Pass, WA Cascades near and west of crest - between Stevens and Snoqualmie Pass, WA Cascades near and west of crest - between Snoqualmie and White Pass, WA Cascades near and west of crest - south of White Pass, East slopes WA Cascades - north of Stevens Pass, East slopes WA Cascades - between Stevens and Snoqualmie Pass, East slopes WA Cascades - between Snoqualmie and White Pass, East slopes WA Cascades - south of White Pass, Mt Hood area Forecast Friday Through Tuesday: Strong spring storms this week have deposited significant new snow amounts above about 5 to 6000 feet. This snow should become increasingly unstable through the weekend with gradually increasing sunshine and warming expected. Expect locally high avalanche danger developing above about 5 to 6000 feet, especially on sun exposed terrain and higher elevations and on the volcanoes. Snowpack Analysis Recent Weather: Several strong fronts and associated upper level troughs have moved across the Pacific Northwest since Sunday. Snow levels have remained relatively low throughout the week mainly near 3-4000 feet in the north Cascades and 4 to 5000 feet in south Cascades and Mt Hood area. Total precipitation amounts over the past four days (Monday through early Friday morning) along most west slope areas and volcanoes range from about 2 to 3 inches of water equivalent with Timberline on Mt Hood receiving the greatest amount of 4.5 inches in four days and 5.2 inches in 5 days! Less water was received along the east slopes, mostly between .5 to 1 inch. This precipitation has mainly been in the form of snow above 4000 feet in the north and 5000 feet in the south. Recent snowfall totals during the week range from 1 to 2 feet of snow at study plots from 4-6000 feet. Significantly greater new snow is likely above 6-7000 feet, especially on the volcanic peaks. Snow Pack and Avalanche Activity: There have been numerous field observations over the past several days, especially from WSDOT crews working above Chinook Pass in the central WA Cascades and from patrol at Alpental and Mt Hood Meadows ski areas. Crews on Chinook Pass reported by early afternoon, they had already received about 15 inches of new snow through the day. This new snow became increasingly wet and unstable through the afternoon with natural slides releasing on most slopes even with mostly cloudy and cool conditions. Slides were also releasing on relatively low angled slopes of about 30 degrees, with most slides remained above a thin crust layer. However of potentially greater concern is the snowpack below the recent snow and thin crust layer. Below the new recent snow and any remaining thin crust, about 1 to 2 meters of large grain wet to saturated snow remains above the older finer grained winter snowpack. Control results and cornice drops earlier in the week did produce some larger wet slab releases involving these deep layers of wet snow. Other field observations from both Alpental and Mt Hood Thursday as well as back country skier reports this week confirm the deep layer of wet unconsolidated snow ranging from 1 to 2 meters. Just received snowpack conditions from Alpental pro patrol Friday morning. New recent snow becoming wet with ski cuts easily triggering wet avalanches. These slides are running far and fast and entraining wet snow underneath as well as carrying over shallow angled terrain and benches. What does this mean? It means we do not have a stable spring snowpack as yet. It also means that slides releasing easily in the new snow from this week, up to 1 to 2 feet or more, may break down and involve the deeper 3 to 6 feet of wet snow layers. These slides would become very large very quickly, travel fast and far and be potentially destructive! Cornice failures also remain a major concern, as these may trigger large wet slab releases on slopes below. Detailed Forecasts Friday and Saturday The coolest air mass of the week is over us Friday and into early Saturday as an upper level low pressure system moves through the area. This should maintain light snow showers and moderate onshore westerly flow through early Saturday with a diminishing trend in showers overnight and early Saturday. High pressure should begin building Saturday with modest rises in freezing levels. However, sun breaks should allow for daytime temperatures to respond quickly. This weather should continue to wet and weaken the recent snow received this week resulting in continued unstable conditions. Both natural and triggered slides should remain likely, especially during the warmer part of the day and on slopes receiving direct sunshine. Such slides could entrain deeper wet snow as they descend especially in chutes, gullies and canyons that may funnel larger avalanches from higher terrain. Concern #1: Wet loose or isolated wet slab avalanches especially mid and lower elevations and sun exposed terrain. Concern #2: Cornice failures. Concern #3: Glide cracks where full snow pack releases to smooth underlying surface such as rock faces are possible. Sunday through TuesdayMonday High pressure should become strong over the region Sunday through Tuesday. This should cause significant warming with freezing levels climbing to 9-10,000 feet late Sunday and 10-11,000 feet by Monday into Tuesday. Mostly sunny warm weather with light winds are expected Sunday through Tuesday with high clouds spreading over the area Tuesday. This should cause deep wet surface conditions in most areas. As a result, natural wet loose or wet slab avalanches should remain likely during this period, especially from late morning through the afternoon hours each day. Cornice failure remains likely as well. Some wet slides may become large and become potentially destructive, running to the valley floors. Even travel on relatively flat terrain at lower elevations may be dangerous as slides beginning at higher elevations could easily become very large and quickly reach lower elevation areas. As a result of this potentially large spring avalanche cycle, back country travel is not recommended late this weekend into early next week. As freezing levels rise, the avalanche danger should quickly spread to higher elevations, especially on the volcanoes where more recent snow this week as accumulated. Concern #1: Wet loose or isolated wet slab avalanches especially mid and lower elevations and sun exposed terrain. Concern #2: Cornice failures. Concern #3: Glide cracks where full snow pack releases to smooth underlying surface such as rock faces are possible. Backcountry travelers should be aware that elevation and geographic distinctions are approximate and that a transition zone between dangers exists. Remember there are avalanche safe areas in the mountains during all levels of avalanche danger. Contact local authorities in your area of interest for further information. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Warning = Extreme or high avalanche danger occurring or expected to occur within 12 hours: at or below 4000 feet in the Olympics and/or WA Cascades; at or below 5000 feet in the Mt. Hood Area.

Getting Close! Today's (Fri., 05/04/12) update from WSDOT's Jeff Adamson and Dustin Terpening. Hi all, Week number six (Day 24-Thursday) ended like it started on Monday with cold temperatures and snow (but no broken blowers!) It has also produced the first almost, sort of, maybe “reopening date” prediction – next Thursday (or…Friday.) Let's hope so, for Ski In's sake! Gary Claybo (Lead Tech - Mt. Vernon) reports that Bob Hopfield and his Kodiak has cut to Bridge Creek at MP 159.5 through 7 to 10 feet of snow about two miles past Rainy. On the eastside, Don Becker (Supv.-Twisp) reports progress to Whistler at MP 161 about a mile and a half past Washington, so the two crews are about a mile and a half apart. It’s likely the two can meet on Monday, if weather and equipment cooperate, but the progress points are only a single snow blower wide (about 8’), so there’s lots of widening, ditching and guardrail repair before it’s ready for traffic. The work is slow because the Kodiak snow blower “mouths” are 6’ high. The snow on the road is 7 to 10’ deep. When a Kodiak is chewing into a pile of newly fallen snow, it can take on a pile that’s 8’ deep because it’s lighter, softer and collapses by itself. When the snow has been accumulating all winter, it more closely resembles concrete and doesn’t collapse. That’s why we use the caterpillars to cut the piles down to 6’. Needless to say – it also takes longer to clear because the blower is blowing snow that’s much heavier and denser than say the fresh stuff that comes down the avalanche chutes on Stevens the same day it fell from the sky. The cold and snow all week made working conditions less than comfortable, but it kept the slopes stable and despite a broken U Joint on an eastside Kodiak and a broken bolt on the Westside Kodiak – crews made good progress. The forecast for early next week is warm. That should work in our favor, too. We would prefer empty avalanche chutes when the road reopens, so a couple days of warm weather suggests a significant avalanche control effort Wednesday, allowing a “safe” Thursday reopening. Think cinnamon rolls and 49er Days and keep your fingers crossed! jeff.adamson@wsdot.wa.gov (509) 667-2815 dustin.terpening@wsdot.wa.gov (360) 757-5997 There are new pictures from the week posted on the flickr site. www.flickr.com/photos/wsdot/sets/72157629681048559/ I'm also updating the map on the NCH spring opening web page and posting the "bureaucratic version" of the week's progress report. http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/Traffic/Passes/NorthCascades/updates2012.htm

Today's (Tues., 05/01/12) update from WSDOT's Jeff Adamson and Dustin Terpening. Hi all, Week number six (Day 21-Monday) got underway with cold temperatures, snow and a broken snow blower. Gary Claybo (Lead Tech - Mt. Vernon) said that on the west side, it warmed all the way up to 34 degrees at Rainy Pass. Bob Hopfield and his Kodiak cleared another mile through 7 to 10 feet of snow to MP 158, about a half mile past Rainy. It's going to take another day to finish the widening. At that elevation (4,855') the precipitation that was rain in the Skagit Valley came down on the crew in the form of heavy, wet snow. On the eastside, Don Becker (Supv.-Twisp) said the day began with the loss of one of the Kodiak snow blowers - a U-Joint broke. Don drove to Wenatchee, got the part and only missed half of "The Voice" by the time he got back home late for dinner, so they expected to complete the repairs and be back to full strength (two Kodiaks) today. Despite a high temperature of only 37 degrees and snow at 5,477' all day, The crew made pretty good progress, anyway. The cold temperatures stabilized the slopes allowing the D-8 cat (from Lloyd Logging) to finish its work through the Liberty Bell zone and it was sent back to Twisp at the end of the day. The pavement is now visible (even though the widening isn't finished) all the way to Washington Pass! That means the two crews are five miles and only a couple avalanche zones (smaller ones) apart. That is good news, but with the snow, the forecast for more all week, and the potential for more equipment breakdowns always looming - no one is ready to make any reopening predictions yet. (Let's see how the rest of the week progresses...) Don has some photos of the broken Kodiak, but the camera and computer decided not to play well together this morning, so you'll have to wait till tonight or tomorrow for fresh photos from Liberty Bell. We know there were a lot of you who made plans anticipating the highway would be open this week. Thanks for being patient (and forgiving) and try to enjoy the unexpected opportunity on US 2 to visit Leavenworth or swing through Wenatchee during the Apple Blossom Festival this week (elephant ears are a forbidden fruit I only succumb to once a year - at Memorial Park!) Keep your fingers crossed! jeff.adamson@wsdot.wa.gov (509) 667-2815 dustin.terpening@wsdot.wa.gov (360) 757-5997

Today's (Thurs., 04/26/12) update from WSDOT's Jeff Adamson and Dustin Terpening. Hi all, The weather this (Thursday) morning was awful, rain becoming snow the higher up you went. That ramped up the avalanche danger to the point that the avalanche crew pulled everyone off the mountain. It means the clearing on the eastside won't reach Washington Pass as hoped. Right now, the clearing ends in the 60+ feet of snow below LB #3. The westside crew's progress ends just below Rainy Pass. The net effect is that the pass won't be opening next week, but hopefully early the following week. The target has always been to have it open for Winthrop's 49'er Days (May 12 & 13) which is still realistic if weather and equipment cooperate. I'm having three pictures from yesterday's work up to Liberty Bell posted on the flickr site. www.flickr.com/photos/wsdot/sets/72157629681048559/ I'm also updating the map on the NCH spring opening web page and posting the "bureaucratic version" of the week's progress report. http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/Traffic/Passes/NorthCascades/updates2012.htm Since I've got your attention, I'll offer a pair of youtube videos for your edification - our compatriots down Snoqualmie put one together on the construction work this summer and the traffic impact that it's going to bring. As difficult as it may be to imagine - it's VERY cool. I've been drawing attention all week in my orange nikes and golf shirt to gain attention for Work Zone Safety week. This video isn't nearly as much fun, but the subject is a serious one. As I mentioned in the last update, fishermen and bicyclists are calling to see if the highway is open yet, so if you have an opening day fishing fan or an early season bicyclist among your friends – please forward this along to them. Here’s the link so they can sign up for these e mails: https://public.govdelivery.com/accounts/WADOT/subscriber/new? Thanks! jeff.adamson@wsdot.wa.gov (509) 667-2815 dustin.terpening@wsdot.wa.gov (360) 757-5997