Panos

PM sent.

Alpinemorg, I accept that the above comment of mine was not fair. Apologies to all professional instructors. I did not mean it that way. I have to say that -understandably- I did not get any further recommendations for professional instructors. A few 2-hour lessons at Alpental would be great by somebody who teaches up-to-date PSIA technique and knows what he/she is talking about. Until I find this individual I will not stay at home! White flakes are falling...

You do not at all, I am sorry. I have thought about this myself There is no harm trying... I can tell you it does. The secret is not to learn fast but to try avoiding the "intermediate rut". By the way, the term intermediate is very subjective. It all depends on how far one is aiming for. In terms of skiing, so far I have only opened my eyes - I am not saying that I am even close to what I consider as intermediate. You are right man. But this was not a comment on the morality of the professional. It has to do rather with my attitude about climbing. How would you feel if you approach a nice girl and she asks for money before you kiss! If you are an old school mountaineer (in the way that Rebuffat was) you will run away. That is all.

Hafilax, thank you for pointing that out loud. And you guys, Let me clarify something: paying for one 2-hour lesson every month with a ski instructor who really understands what he/she is talking about is something that I would do very happily, and I understand that it can be truly helpful. What exactly I am "against" (as a matter of personal preference, not judging anybody) is the new trend to sell and buy experiences beyond instructional lessons. Namely, when one pays to get something done guided. I have seen clients dragged up on big walls almost like they were haul bags, and they told me that it was "a steep learning curve" for them. Enough! It was not the same when Mummery was putting on his climbs. Whatever progress I have made in skiing it has been 95% through reading good books (such as: The Skier's Edge and The All Mountain Skier), watching videos (Tejada Flores has made some good ones) and most-most importantly skiing by myself (regardless if I am with others) countless hours, everytime trying something different, going faster or steeper and getting more confident step-by-step while always trying to understand the dynamics of the sport. Not only the how but also the why, based on physics. And I went a long way this way, skiing down all the named lines at Alpental after only 15 days of skiing (never skied before). When an instructor says, for example, "keep your hands at the front of your body" but he cannot explain convincingly why this is best, then it is a waste of money in my way of thinking. No-instructor is sometimes better than a proclaimed qualified instructor.

Man, yes these guys are real professionals at Pro Ski. But who can pay hundreds of dollars for private skiing instruction? On the top, the idea of the guiding business to sell "trips" to consumers finds me very much against. You touched a very sensitive topic: for me the mountains are there to be enjoyed with solid friends or solo, and with someone who gets paid for his/her services there is no such thing as true friendship, period. Of course you will ask me: "why the hell you are asking for an instructor then"? My answer: I do not know! I hope to find someone who will act as a ski mentor rather than a professional who will see me as a client and put a hand in my pocket before we even meet. Thank you for your recommendation though. I have seen Martin's book and I found it quite useful.

. Do not assume that I have already got many responses ;-)

Hey folks, Recommendations welcome for a great ski instructor. I know, this is a pretty early talk about skiing... I did great progress last year as a true beginner, finally skiing black diamonds pretty confidently, and had some powder back country adventures too. But I have learned mostly from books and without the watchfull eye of a good instructor I may develop "bad habbits", or so I was told. This season I will stick to Alpental a lot and I am looking for a really good instructor who will introduce me to all-terrain skiing. I am looking for someone who will teach me the HOWs and the WHYs instead of his/her rigid recipe. Someone who understands well the physics of the sport and has a friendly personality. Cheers, Ibex

Climbing partners for the harder mixed and alpine ice routes (M4, AI4 and beyond) are more difficult to find. Here there is plenty of alpine experience and commitment. Anybody who has a relaxed attitude and looks forward to climb the big classic routes out there? Fit and strong please Better send a PM. Ibex

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Kevin, Email me or PM about your plans. Keep me updated about conditions. Ibex.

Hello folks, Does anybody has a really good recommendation for a doctor to help me with my chronic tendonitis problems (in-side elbow). Post or PM me. Much appreciated Ibex

. From the base of the climb to the top of Main peak I wore my climbing shoes. Then I put on my mountaineering leather boots. No question, the latter were heavy to carry but there was a lot of snow left and I would not go like this again: http://picasaweb.google.com/Doribex/Bugaboos/photo#5233073464221633394

This weekend 23-24 August. Anyone experienced and fast who is interested in one or more of these routes? I can lead hapilly alpine 5.9 and C2. Like to move and climb fast. Email me.

Email sent. Panos

Thanks Colin. This info helps a lot. Perhaps I will give it a go in summer conditions first. Panos )

I did not know this species. They are utterly disgusting to me. But now I have a kit that I will always carry with me when climbing. It is extra light: an 8-feet long fishing line with a bight and a small bit of cheese. For more effective pulling the fishing line can be attached to a ski pole if there is one handy. Other effective ways of "self defense" may include a water pistol with vitriol or a light straw for blowing needles (or other means of more massive destruction).

I managed to cut his tail half with a rock after placing a piece of cheese one yard below my sleeping bag. This devil was too fast but next time I will catch him alive and let him die in a bag full of chock. This will register a fear of climbers in rats' collective memory.

Not really

Hey there, Here is a note for whoever is planning to take a bivi on the T/F ridge. As another T/R mentions, monstrous rats have their habitat on the ridge and they attack climbers who wish to take some sleep up there. These beasts are not afraid of people while they like to bite anything that is not rock. Apart from badly damaging the non-metal gear in a way that is not always visible they can also be dangerous for your own safety: I have read that their saliva has anesthetic so that they can eat your ear or nose (or other prodruding parts of your body) without noticing. To save our gear and find peace we were forced to rappel in the middle of the night from the notch next to Torment to the neighboring glacier and sleep on the snow instead. I should not miss to mention the specs of the beast: 17-20cm long (body and head), dark brown with relatively short tail that is thicker at the end and with astonishing swiftness, climbing skills, and impudence. If I go up there again I will not miss taking the most useful: Ibex

Okay dudes, I did not claim ownership of the Camalot. If it was mine I would not leave it there, believe me. Yet, I placed it and it was not placed badly. Whoever guesses what has happened is a good detective Ibex

I added a link to the Picasa album. I went there 3 times between September and early November last year and 3 times I turned back. The first time everything was soacking wet, the second time visibility was really poor and the third time it had already snowed! So, this was a commitment for me

Trip: Mount Index - Solo Traverse Date: 7/12/2008 Trip Report: Any fellow who wants to climb the North Face of Mt. Index North Peak or to do the traverse of the mountain should go now! I was up there yesterday (Saturday, July 12) and I found perfect conditions, that is: dry rock throughout and lots of snow along the traverse (for getting water) and in the descent gully (quite firm despite the high temperatures). This was a solo climb completed in 12:40 car-to-car (9:00AM - 9:40PM). No use of rope was made except for hauling my back pack up the short pitch out of the notch between the North and the Main Peaks. No rappel was made either, the down-climbing from the North Peak to the notch took some searching and a fair amount of 5.6 (and easier) down-climbing on shitty exposed rock. You know how it is there: every piece of rock that you touch and it's loose and goes down the steep gully shows you the way that your body will take if you slip... The quality of the route is not super great but the grandeur and ruggedness of the terrain is unequaled for the size of the mountain. Here is a link to some cool pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/Doribex/Index Gear Notes: Carrying crampons is not necessary if temperatures stay high. Boot skiing down the descent gully is awesomely fast. A light ice-axe recommended for the descent. I had a medium rack (nuts and cams to 3'') plus a 6.5mm 70m rappel cord and a 20m single rope. From all these only the cord was used to haul the back pack in that one steep pitch. In case a retreat is needed though one must have plenty of slings and rappel rings plus the rope and a small rack. A 2 litter water bottle and a soft funnel (cut half a small plastic bottle) to help with getting water from the rocks. Approach Notes: 1:30 from the car to the start of the climb. 2:30 from the top of Main Peak back to the car. 8:40 of climbing (stops included).

Whoever goes first (after Sunday 07/06) to climb Outer-Space at Snow Creek wall will find a red Camalot forgotten at the middle of the "traverse under thin flake" (2nd pitch). Returns welcome

Bravo guys! I understand that last weekend crampons and ice-axes would be pretty useless up there, right ? Ibex