tytyler

Climb: Shuksan-N. Face Date of Climb: 5/30/2006 Trip Report: So it seemed everyone else had rain over the memorial day weekend....luckily we decided that Mon/Tues would be better...sure enough!! We headed out from Seattle at around 9am and started our leisure approach around 12. We arrived just below the North Face route at about 4pm. We followed the cat track below the Baker Ski slopes to its end and instead of heading straight down through the clear cut, we tried cutting across the slope higher up, trying to stay on snow. We ran into several stream crossings and increasing steepness, so we just headed down hill through the trees. Eventually we reached the valley bottom and started our slog. Pretty decent snow conditions with only small post holes and fairly easy going. Once we arrived at the 5400-5600 bench below the N Face, the snow was total slush and the visibility dropped to ZERO. Not a good sign we thought, 60+ degrees and super humid air. Hung out, melted water, climbed into our bivy bags, and off to sleep praying for a better day. (Thanks to the guys who dug out the large tent platform over the weekend). CLEAR SKIES at 9pm when I stirred in my bivy bag and a temp of 32......looking good. 12am, star filled skies, bright moonlight and 30 degrees....even better. We wake up at 4am to a totally different world. Clear skies, snow as hard as rock, and visibility for miles. Time to go. Joe and I headed out around 6am after melting more water. We're on the N Face and headed up. Slow moving at first as our legs warm up. I lead us around some breaks and into the ice fall area, and Joe blazes a quick path through the danger area and into safety. We had a few nice moves over some cracks and moats. Just to the right side exit we hit a soft snow patch, little to no purchase with our feet or tools, we go through as quickly as possible. Uneventful, but beautifully exposed climbing to the shoulder. As soon as reaching the shoulder the winds picked up and cooled us off to a bitter cold. The traverse across the top of hanging glacier was easy and short, there was a boot track, but our snow seemed in better conditions than they got. We reached the summit pyramid at about 9:30am, 3.5hrs from camp, not too bad. After a brief snack and the thoughts of everyone else being at work we headed up the summit pyramid. It was my second time on the summit so I gave the lead to Joe and we ascended the south gulley. Joe put in an ice screw in one steep, melting out spot and than a nut in a crack just before a short exposed step to the summit. Winds were a consistent 30+mph so we took the standard summit photo, congratulated ourselves and headed down. We simply down climbed, face first, following our tracks down. We met up with a European group of four on their decent from the ridge and they kindly let us pass. They did the Sulphide glacier route. Neither of us were entirely sure about the decent route, so we were actaully glad we found the boot track from another group. There was a steep step into the hourglass that we downclimbed face first again. The traverse down was beautiful and uneventful. Once we reached the final decent slope, White Salmon, both our spirits were lifted and crushed at the same time. We still had SO long to go down. It took us forever to decent to the valley. plunge stepping sucked, glissading was out, and following the other boot track was worse (once again, their conditions looked worse). We finally settled on a combination of front pointing and heal kicking as muscle groups tired. Once we reached the bottom we got to wittness a few truck size chunks cleave off the hanging glacier for an incredible break time show. The hike across the valley back to the woods was uneventful, besides a few plunge steps and a celebratory gift from Joe. Then it turned into a minor hell. We decided to try and traverse the valley the clearcut and head up. It turned into a bushwack through stream crossings on alders and then straight up through the forest. Finally reaching the car!!! 12hrs, camp to car Snow/ice conditions were great on the entire route, with the exception of the short section on the N Face. We came across very few crevasses and passed through high risk areas early enough. All in all a great climb. Thanks Joe for picking the mountain Check out photos. Simply use the drop arrow under "slideshow" for larger versions. www.spaces.msn.com/tytyler37 Gear Notes: two tools one screw one nut one picket (used in mush) Approach Notes: there is no trail, just make it up however you like

I'm out of work at 3 on Thurs and have been trying to find someone for the same. I can drive. PM me

what about wednesday instead 5/17

I meant the NE Buttress Couloir, sorry. I saw a total of 3 people. Two guys coming out from Stuart area, and one solo guy just hiking around. Its a pretty nice spot to have all to yourself.

Climb: Colchuck-N Buttress Couloir Date of Climb: 5/2/2006 Trip Report: Took a little solo trip up into Colchuck Lake area this past Tues/Wed. I couldn't ask for better weather or better conditions. I was able to drive to just below the first trail head and only had about a miles hike to the trail head. 3 hrs from the car I end up at the lake. The boot track to the Stuart Lake/Colchuck Lake trail intersection was hard packed and the boot track to Colchuck Lake went either left or right. I headed right (left wasn't any better coming down) through the trees, and plunge steps, etc. The lake was still pretty frozen over and made the hike to the other end, short and quick. Woke up around 5 from a deep slumber. Temps at night down to about 25 with incredibly clear skies. Everything was a super hard crust, making for a quick climb up the moraine to the couloir base...and then watching as my helmet slide all the way back to camp, oopps. Made short work of the first half, following a decent boot track to the notch (Thanks all you weekend climbers). Took a breather and headed up the rest. The climb feels a little more exposted on NW face, meaders around at the top and then through a shoot to the summit block. Pretty quick climb. The decent down the Colchuck Glacier seemed to take longer....and be harder. The snow was still rock hard, and I either couldn't walk with the crampons or decented a little too fast just sliding. Took a long relaxing lunch at camp and hiked out, taking the other wondering boot track out. All-in-all a great trip. Temps during the day were around 60 with a light breeze. I've got a few photos www.spaces.msn.com/tytyler37/ Approach Notes: trail to trail junction was easy to follow and hard packed Take either boot track, or make your own

I'm headed to Colchuck this tues/wed and was going to try the NE Buttress Couloir route solo, but it would be better with a partner, or even a try on TC on Dragontail. I'm in Seattle and Will be leaving early tues am. I hear the gate is open on M. creek road so it'll save some road walking. PM me if you're interested.

I've been looking for the same thing. I'm a Tues/Wed guy from Seattle. PM sent

Climb: Temple Ridge-Nada Lake/Tamarack Meadows Date of Climb: 4/17/2006 Trip Report: Had a 3 day weekend and decided to head out and play in the Enchanments area. My original plan was to go up and over the ridge and down around Temple lake and out by Snow Lake, but of course things happen. Headed up the snow creek trail around 11:30am, the trail is clear of snow to about 2500', just before reaching the trees below Snowcreek Wall. I saw 2 guys on there way to the base, they had a great day to climb. The snow had a nice firm crust under about an inch or so of soft snow. I carried the snowshoes and never once put them on, didn't need anything for the approach hike. Looks like most of the snow on the upper rock faces has all fallen off, lots of avy debris. I reached Nada Lake in about 4.5 hrs after a slight navigation delay. Once that sun went down the temp dropped all the way to about 20 at sunrise. Started making my brew for the am and ran out of fuel...oops, wrong canister to bring can't exactly melt water for another 1 1/2 days. The firm crust from the day before was even firmer with all the radiation cooling from the clear skies. Made for great hiking up to the meadows and the rest of the way to Temple ridge. My crampons barely broke the crust and I hardly saw my boot track on the way back. Nice sunny day with a quick decent and some time to check out how all the crags looked. There was a group on Careno and two groups on Icicle Buttress, and a few scattered around on a few other crags. All in all a nice early season outing. Sorry, no pictures Gear Notes: more fuel and food!!! carried snowshoes, didn't need them

what are your days off?

I originally thought of going into Cascade Pass but all the new snow is going to make av danger a little higher than I would like to play around with. I've changed directions and am heading into the Enchantments mon, tues, wed (4/17, 18, 19). I'm planning on getting up Temple and playing around on the ridge if I was solo and then head over to Temple Lake. I would love to hit Prusik though. The forecast for the area looks good, partly sunny on Monday and Tues, Wed look even better. PM me if your intested. Otherwise expect a TR next week.

I think I'm headed there for the day for a little solo aid climbing, I'd be more than willing to hook up while I'm there. PM me

Has anyone been in the area of Twin Lakes Rd? I'm sure the road itself isn't completely snowed in, but the Baker plows usually put a giant snow pile directly in front. I haven't been in the area since November. Any help, or if anyone heads to the Baker ski area this weekend. Thanks

what are your days off? Tues/Wed?

Nice report, thanks for the inspiration. I think the wife and I will head up there tomorrow. I've wanted to head in there almost all winter, but never had a day. How long was the actual approach time? Looks like there's an interesting line on the right edge of your picture, did you happen to take a look? If we go, I'll post it up.

Climb: Another day in Paradise...well Mazama- Date of Climb: 3/7/2006 Trip Report: The wife and I headed down to Rainier for the day before this recent storm front came in. It was completely overcast from the moment we got there, but very light snow and light winds. We headed up onto the west face of Mazama and did some yo-yo boarding. After a few runs the wind picked up, as did the snow and before you know it, conditions were no longer pleasant. Dug 2 pits on the way up and neither one resulted in any quality shears. There was about 6-8 inches of fairly new high density snow (fist) that seemed to be bonding well to the weekends sun(?) crust. Below that there was about 20-30cm of 4F that sheared with a Q2 on the shovel shear and a score of 21(1 shoulder shot) on the compression with a Q3. About a meter deep there was an extremely hard crust (rain crust?)that took a good shot from the shovel to break through, the snow on top slide cleanly but took me almost jumping on the column. Below the crust there was a softer layer of snow from probably sometime in FEB (I was gone for the first 2 months of this year, so I'm not sure). The wind was coming in from the south, right up Paradise Valley so I'd be careful on those loaded slopes over the next few days. Anyway, good turns until the storm rolled in.

I was thinking of heading into the mt loop highway area for a little winter attempt of Vesper or Sloan and was wondering if anyone had info about how far the highway was open?? Thanks

I typically have every Tues/Wed off. What have you got in mind?

I'm headed to Jackson, WY for this upcoming week. I'll be taking my Avalanche III course but will have a full day afterwards before I come back. Anyone know of some easy access ice in the area??? Thanks

Climb: Mt Rainier/ Paradise - Date of Climb: 2/7/2006 Trip Report: Here's what Mikes Gully area looks like from the Nisqually bridge on Feb 7. Wish I had gotten a closer look, I was too busy digging a few snow pits.

I take it you have a regular mon-fri job and climb on weekends?

what are your days off and days at Stone Gardens??

Climb: Mt Rainier/ Paradise (snowpits)- Date of Climb: 1/31/2006 Trip Report: Decided to head to Rainier for the day and dig a few pits. I'm headed to Jackson WY for AV 3 and decided that I needed some practice before I went. Never did one last year......there wasn't any snow to dig last year! Of course I get there and realize I forgot a hat and some layers, needless to say I didn't stay out long. I got two pits in; one full on and another hasty. Pit 1: Just off the road into Paradise Valley out of the parking lot. On the walk over there was a crust almost the whole way that took a good jump to break through. I dug the pit on about 30 degrees/facing east and 5360ft, the wind was loading the slope and there was about a 3 in layer on top of recent snow. The wind slab went EASY & clean on a shear test, compression test and slid as soon as I stept on the Rutchblock. Under the windslab there was about 20cm of 1finger consolided snow, below that an 8cm layer of pencil hardness crust, then a 20cm layer of fist hardness (facets??), another thin layer of an old crust below that and all 1 finger below that. After the wind slab broke off, the next shear (in all tests) was at the top if the 4 fists layer and went easy & clean, and with a slight hop on the Rutchblock. Not very comforting. Pit 2: Was above the parking lot at about 6100 ft, WSW and at 28 degrees. The snow had started coming down from the new storm at about 1pm. I only did a hasty pit. There was a very dense slab layer on top of about 15cm that took a good effort to break through (I couldn't break through even with jumping) below that there was unconsolidated powder (4 finger) to a small fist layer and then all 1 finger. The slab layer on top went with a moderate pull on the shear test and 2 smacks from my elbow on the compression and a rutchbock of between a 1/2. The next shear was pretty poor quality on the shear test; I just fell through the rest of snow on the rutchblock and the compression didn't give me much of results. I wouldn't want to cause a slide on the top layer slab, it didn't break up at all, even as I tossed it down the slope....no thanks!! There were pockets of soft powder on some N and NW slopes, but the wind was starting to change all that. I got cold when the wind and heavier snow picked up so I headed home. I was surprised to see a few people out there skiing and boarding...none of which had shovels!!!!! Anyway, hope this helps. I'll be out somewhere next Tuesday depends on av conditions and I'll dig a few more. Approach Notes: I saw ice around Mikes Gulley area and Narada might be doable, if you want to get wet.

yeah, I think that was me. Are you one of the guys from Everett...right?

Climb: Snowfield Peak, Neve Glacier-Pyramid Lake Date of Climb: 1/24/2006 Trip Report: Decided that I needed a BIG work-out for my two days off so I headed out solo for Snowfield Peak in NCNP. I always forget how long that drive is from Seattle. I was hiking up the Pyramid Lake trail by about 10am. The trail was clear of snow to about the first stream crossing and I finally put the snowshoes on at about 2100'. The trail was pretty easy to follow all the way to the lake, about 1 1/2hr. Beautiful sunny day and reasonably warm temps. I think the high got to about 50. The snow conditions were brutally wet and heavy all the way up the ridge to the flat area around 5500' where I pitched the tent. Good times with route finding and a heavy pack...not!! It took me forever to get up there and I was pretty spent, didn't even bother looking at the clock. There are so many young trees on the way, too bad I didn't know where the climbers track went...oh well. The sunset in the mountains around 5pm with a temp of about 36. I was asleep by 6 with clear skies and a sky full of stars. Woke up early Wednesday 4am and headed up the remainder of the ridge to Pyramid Peak. Clouds started rolling in, but I pressed on. The slope below the east face of Pyramid on the way to the Colonial Glacier was, how you say, sketchy, especially solo. The snow seemed stable enough and had a little crust on top from the freezing overnight. I made it as far as the Colonial Glacier/Neve Glacier col and decided to head back (time, temps, sun) all weakening that slope for my return. Needless to say, it held and I'm still here. I got a gorgeous sunrise around 7:30am with a lot of color off the clouds and a nice warming feeling while it was out. Of course the clouds continued to roll in. Temps reached into the mid-40's on my way down. Once again, wet snow and deep penetration making for a fun way down. I think I rolled half the way. Headed back to Seattle that afternoon and hit rain as soon as I got to Marblemount. Glad I got out of there when I did. Wish I had more time and more stable conditions to head out for the summit. I'd never been in that particular area b4, but would gladly return once the snow melts out on the approach and the climbers track makes for easier navigating. Didn't have the digital with me, so I haven't gotten the film developed...sorry no pictures. Gear Notes: Wish I had a little extra flotation on the snow shoes

Climb: Alpental Valley-Source Lake Date of Climb: 1/14/2006 Trip Report: Headed up the summer trail in a search for a little ice to climb...found none of course. Did a fair share of breaking trail as no one had ventured too far in with all the new snow. I had a snowshoe penetration of about a foot in most spots. The temps were pretty warm, about 35 or so. There was light snow all morning and no noticible wind. The new snow seemed to be pretty high density and bondng well. I jumped on a few little slopes to see what kind of movement I would get and got none, only deeper penetration. I didn't dig any pits or venture into any of the open slopes in the Source Lake basin area, didn't want to risk it. Kind of wish I brought the board instead of the ice tools and rope, the trees would have provided some great powder riding.