Wild_Bill

Trip: Dragon Tail - Triple Couloirs Attempt Date: 2/20/2011 Trip Report: Attempted to climb Triple Couloirs on Sunday. Made it to the top of the First Couloir (hidden couloir) before we turned around. Essentially, it was a snow slog. So much for the neve conditions of a few weeks ago. The entire couloir (and what appeared to be the rest of the route as well) was full of very unconsolidated waist deep snow. We were planning on Option 2 in the Selected Climbs book, so for our future reference, we decided to go to where we could see past the ice runnels (further up the 1st couloir) before we turned around. The ice runnels looked thin and mostly snow to my eye. Beyond the ice runnels (if one were to bypass them as we intended) was more seemingly bottomless unconsolidated snow. I should also mention that at the very base there was a fun short WI3 step to access hidden couloir if one climbs from the left. Though unconsolidated, there were no weird layers or threats of slabs- just sloughing. Actually, this would be GREAT conditions if one wanted to attempt skiing the route. We talked with another party who attempted the NE Buttress Couloir on Colchuck, and they said they pretty much found the same if not deeper snow conditions (up to their chests up high). They also mentioned that from the vantage of their high point, they thought the cornice up high might be a formidable obstacle. Gear Notes: Pickets, a couple screws for the ice down low, maybe a sled Approach Notes: Great boot pack to the lake. We brought snowshoes, but not necessary until it snows again. Actually, with the exception of a few short sections, skinning would be a better way to go, especially for the downhill advantage. From the approach notes on other trip reports that had better climbing conditions, I wonder if it's possible to surmise that if it's good skinning conditions down low, it's also good skiing conditions up high... but not necessarily good climbing conditions.

Do you remember where on the trail the snow started? As in, if someone were trying to ski up (and down) this, how far from the car would a [lazy] skier have to carry their skis?

I've tried them on and walked around my house a bunch of times, but other than that they're still new (with factory sticker on sole). I'll be honest, I got a good deal on them, but the trip I bought them for isn't going to happen. I'm just trying to make back what I got them for- trying to sell them for $250. Is it legit to post a link to a website that has them, as long as it's not my website? If so, here's what they look like and some official info on them: http://www.rei.com/product/719718 I'm in Bellingham, so if you're interested and not in Bellingham, let me know if you have a good idea on how to work it out. You know you want them, -B.J.

HOPE AREA: I think if you want to do some good climbing in the Hope area right now, you're going to have to hike up a ways. Climbed the first pitch of MOUSETRAP today. Wet, massive amounts of water running underneath. The second pitch was way worse (even more massive amounts of water flowing through and on top of the ice). We bailed up and right (not the easiest turf climbing endeavor). Highly not recommended right now. Checked out CRUEL POOLS area. Thin (as seen from the car), didn't bother with it. Climbed the second pitch of one of the climbs to climber's right of Mousetrap (the one lower down and right of the fatter looking road side climb- not especially recommended). Whatever that fatter climb is on climber's right of mousetrap looked plausible, but I'm guessing it had uninspiring amounts of water running beneath it like everything else I saw today. ...But who knows? Prove me wrong... Approached the above climb (as one would for the aforementioned "fatter climb") from the very west end of that service road off exit... 165 I think? The same exit for mousetrap. Through the clearing, across the east-west drainage, then straight shot up the gully. Sorry to say I didn't get a good look at much else. If this 'TR' managed to somehow inspire anyone, I have a picture of the mousetrap area on my camera somewhere in my pack that I could email later... I mean, if you really need your optimism killed, or if you just want to feel better about sleeping in tomorrow...

Was also in the area yesterday (Dec 8th). Didn't look like any way across the river in the Drury area without flotation. Looked like you might be able to cross a little ways (a mile or so) west with some knee-high rubber boots and trekking poles...if you were really desperate. Got on Hubba Hubba, as did another party behind us. Thin at the start (left side fatter by the end of the day than the morning), but certainly climbable. Left and Right of Hubba Hubba were also "climbable" but not too inspiring. The road was nearly bare all the way to the campground. Something else across Icicle and up just a little ways also looked formed.

I'm looking to head out starting tomorrow or Tuesday. Anyone been out there to see if anything's forming in Lillooet or Hope... any more news from the Alpine Lakes area...? I appreciate it.

All the way up to the bathrooms in the morning while everything was frozen (got stuck turning around), but better to park a little lower to avoid getting stuck if it thaws out. Also, boot packing through most of the trees- not enough snow to ski in until higher up.

As of December 2nd: A friend of mine was in the area, I asked him to take a look. He took a picture, which I saw but don't have to show. That to say, in case anyone was wondering, Colfax is not in yet. There is some *climbable* ice on the first pitch of...the right side route...I can't remember which is which. The upper portion had some good daggers forming though (both routes). And that's pretty much what I know about that.

I appreciate the response. I guess not from lillooet, but from somewhere or another, I hope to have something to report early next week. Thanks for sharing what you know. -Wild_Bill

Has anyone been ambitious and/or optimistic enough to head up there for some reason? Any reason I should get my hopes up?

Trip: Black Peak - North East Ridge Date: 9/12/2009 Trip Report: Route Conditions/info: Lower route: Almost entirely snow free... almost. While the Nelson guide suggest the climb free of any cravasse/moat issues, the snow on the "permanent snowfield" has all but melted away, leaving behind a good section of ice complete with a minor cravasse or two to watch out for (go around to the left as a thin snow bridge exists covering a large section to the right). In late season such as this, crampons (even aluminum) would definitely been worth their weight (we chopped steps). Gaining the ridge: As described in the Nelson/Potterfield guide, gain the 30 degree ramp on the climber's left, and ascend to the notch on the ridge. It looks much worse from afar than it actually is... which isn't to say it's great. The first third of the ridge is really quite loose and chossy (that sounds redundant, but be assured it was both). We stayed on the climber's left side for the beginning, wandering upwardsish until it we were sure it would be less bad to go up than to continue along the upper portion of the face (per guide book). Once actually on the ridge crest: Surprisingly, it got much better. After gaining the ridge, the rock quality drastically improved, and we were able to comfortably simul climb the remaining two thirds of the ridge. Time: It took us a little over 5 hours from Wing Lake to the Summit. Could easily take off a half an hour if we had crampons and didn't have to chop steps. Descent: Straight forward. Glad we had trekking poles for the scree-skiing. Special thanks to the party of three that we met up with at the lake the night before, who brought up that box of wine. Gear Notes: Singles from Green C3 to Blue C4, plus a few nuts and tri-cams. We used all of it as we simul-climbed until we ran out of gear, then repeated. Approach Notes: Pretty straight forward.

On a more serious note, thanks for the info.

Trip: Liberty Bell, Washington Pass - Rappel Grapple, Becky Route Date: 6/25/2008 Trip Report: Conditions of route: Snow free, (really) cold until the sun hit. We referenced someone's photo copy from "Weekend Rock" for Rappel Grapple, which made the route really straight forward. The Becky route was the Becky route. Other routes in the area looked pretty clear of snow. Also, I posted this in the lost and found, but again, if anyone finds a purple Mythos shoe up there, I'd appreciate hearing about it. Thanks. Gear Notes: Single set of Cams (to #3 C4) and some nuts. Approach Notes: Hard/Icy snow from the parking lot all the way up the approach to the notch in the morning. Softened up just fine for mid afternoon descent. The "trail" was slightly ambiguous in the beginning, further complicated by a bunch of foot prints leading off in all directions from many other wandering climbers.

If anyone finds themselves at the notch bellow Liberty Bell, I'd appreciate an eye kept out for a purple mythos with blue laces. If you don't see it at first, I'm sure you'll be able to smell it. Follow your nose. I'd love to have it back as it's at its peak of break-in. Thanks.

So Oregon Jack is in, which you probably had already anticipated. I would say the middle section was a bit harder than WI3- at least it felt that way on Sunday (Feb 3rd?). The approach in the book (Don's) is pretty spot on- don't be fooled by the foot prints 75m past the parking lot, they just go through deeper snow and under low branches until they lead back up to the road. There was some surveyors tape that marked a "path" through the woods at the correct turn off, but the tape eventually kept going up and right while the climb was clearly down and left. Question: Does anyone know where that tape/ribbon goes? Does anybody know if it connects with the top of the climb for a walk off and/or a top rope setup? Just curious.

These were all taken last Sunday. Again, there's a bit of snow.

Yeah, I got a look up the NE Couloir after we came off TC on Sunday (4/22/07)- SNOW. Lots and lots of snow. Ski-able amounts perhaps.

Yeah, I was one of the climbers that someone's friend talked to on Sunday evening (day or two after this Trip). We headed up there on Sunday morning, but as mentioned, got turned around by loud shifting/breaking noise from deep underneath my feet... not once but twice. There was certainly more than a couple of inches in the couloir- I was definitely mid thigh deep when I tried to cross the couloir the first time (halted by aforementioned unsettling snow noise). It warmed up substantially during the day, and we left in a good rain. I did my best to take some pictures of the new conditions from below if anyone's interested.

Trip: Shuksan - North Face (Attempt) Date: 4/15/2007 Trip Report: Myself and a couple of friends went up to do TNF of Shuksan (again), but we were turned around by incredible amounts of snow and avalanche danger. Michael#2 and I misery-shoed through deep continuely wind loading snow, up to just below the route (above Pierce/price/whatever Lake). We decided to wait there behind the shelter of a large rock for Michael#1's report (yeah, there were two of them... must be a popular name in Austria). Michael#1 went up on skis just a little higher, and he expectedly came down to report more snow and seeing several fractures. So, you know, that was the end of that. As soon as the snow sets up, the route will obviously be in great shape. The hanging glacier was even well covered on the left hand side. Down lower, there is substantial avalanche debris, to the likes of which I've never seen before, which is notable as it requires some time consuming circum-navigation. If you're considering this route, take a look at the approach notes. I have a few pictures, but they're not on this computer. I didn't get any good ones of the route itself as I didn't want to get my camera out in the weather conditions, not to mention it was nearly a white out anyhow. Basically, everything's about how'd you expect, except with about an extra two+ feet of snow on top. Side notes: No epic this time- not even a single cravasse entry (there've been an average of two per time on previous Shuksan TNF climbs). Get up early, it takes longer to get to the route than it looks like (condition depending I suppose). Ski it. Questions? If you'd like any more info, reply to the post, or better yet email me at sherpa156@hotmail.com. You can message me if you want, but I log in like semi-seasaonly at best. Gear Notes: Skis, avy gear, pickets, the basics, Two-person Austrian bivy sacks (WTF?)? Approach Notes: I've done different combinations of this approach three times now. This time, we started at the pull off below the lower baker lodge, and we came up the clear cut just above the lower lodge (even though I swore to myself I would never ever do that again). Because of the ample snow, I would actually recommend going up and down the clear cut (yeah, I realize what I'm saying). There was even a boot pack up and some ski tracks down. To access this option from the parking lot, head slightly left and up the boundry line run that goes to... chair 8? Then cut downwards wherever it looks good (about a half mile from the lodge). Really, anywhere before the waterfall is fine to cut downwards. You could even ski all the way down if you pick the right line. This way would easily save an hour+ from the normal approach under the current conditions. NOT recommended when there is less snow. As mentioned, we took the logging road down (from the pull off before the lower lodge). I know the book talks about this, but here's what I'd recommend as of last weekend. Take the loging road/snowshoe trail down (as mentioned in Selected #1), turn right at the OBVIOUS right fork (not the first questionable 'Beckey-obvious' side trail, but the later OBVIOUS fork). The slide alder was an ever-increasing obstacle, but just make your way through/around it until you get to the end, and you are faced with the fur trees. Take the last creek bed down just before the forest (this may mean turning around and going back a hundred feet or so). There are a few creek beds along the way, take the last one before the fur trees start, not a prior one. There seems to even be almost somewhat of a boot pack trail down the side of the creek bed that goes almost all the way down (way way way better than bushwaking through the forest), but the trail is subject to changing water conditions. Once you get to the main creek (white salmon creek?), head up and cross the creek to the other side as soon as you can (there's a huge log bridge at some point). Even though both sides of the forest look about the same from the creek, once you cross, it does open up a lot more on the far side of the creek and into the trees. Continue as mentioned in the book.

Everybody knows there's no ladies in Lillooet, which is why Jon and I imported ours from the States. ...Although come to think of it, we did see the bartender doing the walk of shame Sunday morning.

Well you know where it's at. We did do a cost analysis however- and it was decided that the time it would take to retrieve the gear, combinded with the effort involved, factored in with the amount of daylight left, amounted to more than the gear was worth.

Climb: Shuksan-North Face Date of Climb: 2/12/2006 Trip Report: It seemed like the route should have been pretty straight forward (especially seeing as though I had done once before); however, with snow and weather conditions, things got a little tricky. At least the approach was nice... We camped overnight in the basin bellow the White Salmon Glacier figuring we could leave our overnight stuff there, and we'd return to it via the glacier itself, which was the descent route I'd taken a couple years ago. To allow plenty of time, we woke up at 3:00... then again at 3:15, and finally one more time at 3:30, putting us on snowhoes at 4:00. Assuming we'd be on the frozen part of the freeze thaw cycle, we didn't expect the snow to be so soft on the approach. Nor did we expect the snow to remain so soft once we started up the actual north face. Though wind beaten and consildated enough for safety concerns, kicking thousands and thousands of calf-deep steps towards the shoulder wasn't any easier going than the approach. Hidden behind the impending cloud cover, the sun began to rise sometime mid route, which finally gave us enough light to finally see the mouths a few cravasses. We though that perhaps being able to see them would mean nobody else would be falling in as Nick had earler in the route. Shortly after traversing to the right side of the hanging galcier, we ascended into the the descending clouds/high winds/snow/whiteout. We reached the shoulder around 10:00 or so, but with the weather as it was, we decided to abandon the Summit Pyramid and try to head towards the descent route. Several navigational meetings were held behind the shelter of a God sent large rock- all of which lead to an attempt towards the White Salmon, all of which lead to route finding failures. We did however find ourselves several times at the tops of very intimidating cliffs/ridgelines. Finally, with the weather further deteriorating and no visual signs of anything recognizable, the decision was made to follow our disappearing steps back to the North Face to descend. With one more "pow wow" behind "shelter rock" we roped up and headed down. Another few thousand kicked steps (and another fall through a crevasse) later, we were almost at the bottom of the North Face in soft snow and vastly improved weather. Infact, conditions seemed so good, that one group member decided to take the quick way down. [Enter the scariest two minutes of my life] [Nick starts sliding down towards the cliff- unroped, tumbling, rag-dolling, yard-saling, desperately try but failing to arrest] "USE YOUR AXE, NICK, USE YOUR AXE!!!" -me [Nick speeds past, tumbling, and down and over the cliff] "SHIT SHIT SHIT!!!" -everyone "NICK!!!!! -I don't remember who [Running down towards cliff] [Passing of several hours, decades, horrible horrible thoughts and expectations of what might be at the base of the cliff] "NICK!!!!" -The universe [Nick standing at the base of the clff, staring blankly at his 'desecent route'] "NICK!! Are you okay?!!!" -Me "Yah! I'm. Fine." -Nick [The biggest sigh of releif the universe has ever witnessed] Apparently it wasn't Nick's time. Somehow in all his tumbling, he managed to hit the few snowy spots, dropping to the side of the cliff, but yet missing all the rocks to the left and right before he came to a stop at the base. Most of his gear had fallen and kept sliding down into Pierce Lake, including his axe, but not including the screw he was borrowing from me, which he somehow caught upon landing. Aside from a crampon to the thigh, Nick was and is absolutely fine. The rest of the trip was exceedingly unintersting in compairison. We arrived at the car around 8:30. In summary, we were able to make it up the orth face route, but we didn't make the summit. Conditions were relatively okay. Everybody lived. Gear Notes: Ice Axe (regular, not tools), Crampons. We brought screws, but wouldn't have been able to use them. Pickets would of gone in, but we didn't really need em. Approach Notes: We approached from the groomed road that has the pullout just before the lower parking lot of Mt. Baker. Taking the first right unto the ungroomed and slide aldery part to the creek, we headed down the right side and traversed further right sticking to the heavy timber to the White Salmon Creek and crossed it and made run on sentences. The aforementioned went very smooth and easy- much much better than my past expericence with the clear cut. Through the trees to the basin. Snow shoes required.

Dude, what happend with the Tooth? I talked to Ian in the parking lot when we came off Chair, and he was all, "nah, fuck chair, the tooth is more technical!" I still have all weekend, so I was hoping for a Tooth TR. By the way, I still have two of your screws.

Climb: Lillooet-Rambles, Marble Canyon Date of Climb: 2/5/2006 Trip Report: A few of us went up to Lillooet this weekend thinking it was our best chance of ice in the greater PNW. Friday night and Saturday were fairly warm (above O) around town, but it cooled down to below freezing by Sunday (at Marble Canyon at least). Saturday: RAMBLES- Some ice on the left? side (whatever the "main" spot is, I can't remember the name, pretty much straight up from the bridge)- climbable but thin. From the road we could see ice higher up, but it was questionable if it was actually touching down. THE TUBE- Absolutely no sign of ice... but you can imagine what it would of been like if there was though... We then decided to head up to Marble Canyon to at least scope it out for the next day. Suprisingly, the deeping wall actually looked amazing. Sunday: MARBLE CANYON (Deeping Wall)- In. In like flint. Fat. Thick. Gorgeous. Delicious. Very condusive to good climbing. For the first time this season, I didn't have to place stubbies. I placed a 22 for no other reason than because I actually could (smoke em if you got em, right?). Plus, for the whole day of Sunday, we were the ONLY people in the canyon. For those wondering and to avoid sacrilege, we did manage to catch a few staticy minutes of the Hawks in and out on the AM. From the sounds of things, the refs din't have any better reception/perception than we did of what was actually happening in the game. C'est la vie. Gear Notes: The usual. Little guys for the rambles, big ones for marble canyon. Approach Notes: 99 north was snowy- one team didn't make it. 1 to 97 to 12 (from B-ham) was fine. By now everything should be clear. PICTURES: My feeble attempts to imbed pictures within this trip report have ammounted only to the the following URLs below. I posted three pictures in the gallery, which I'm sure most of you can probably navigate your way to finding.

Are you (or anyone else) looking to maybe climb this Saturday or Sunday?