FFCS

Paul B, that was me that you sheperded out I think, I agree not that bad, if you can make it down the gully without problem, then you can make this approach

Man, that graph is pretty scientific. I think that the focus of my response was to point out the fact that a individual chose to put up less than quality routes on less than quality rock, then further chossed the situation by lack of experience. I believe that route setting is a skill that takes time to develop, and it is frustrating as a non route setter yet experienced climber to climb routes that I believe are unsafe. Safety was the reason for this thread starting in the first place, and although climbing is dangerous, I believe that route setters have a moral responsibility to set routes safely. Sure I can chose to not climb these routes (which I don't climb any Bruce routes), but, other people that are new to climbing that don't have the experience to read rock, assess bad bolt placements, or know route setters experience do climb these routes unfortunately.

P.S. Oh I forgot, yes I did at one time know Bruce personally.

I'm talking specifically about Bruce, and yes, Bruce is a relatively new climber with little experience at setting routes. There is a reason that development hasn't taken place at Neverland prior to Bruce showing up, no one else wanted to put up routes on that choss. Not trying to pick fights just some common sense honest observations.

What do you expect from someone that has little experience route setting.

Is this Stanley?

Don't think so

poison ivy is also worth a look, if you can do all these suggested your ready for Outer Space.

Jens you are a nefarious prevaricator

Yah, probably overthinking a little much. Thanks again for the info, now just have to get the taxes done for that return, and hopefully a new setup.

Just common sense really. Nice video

Too light for cascade cement, thats what I was thinking, kinda spendy as well.

Oh yah, thanks for the info keep it coming, much appreciated.

That is what I was wondering, I was really looking at the Dynafit FR 10's also, just a little wider, and I think a scosh lighter. The thing that is making this decision hard is I demoed the Shuksans and they were pretty nice. How are the wider boards on hard pack? Which wider boards? Havocs? Bakers?

I am blessed with the fact that I live on one of our local mountain passes, and have recently tried alpine touring (rentals) to take advantage of some fresh snow and less crowds. Am thinking of getting a set up and would like some advise. I plan on 50/50 skiing, and am not real big into agro backcountry, more into enjoying the whole picture, and enjoying functioning knees for years to come. So far I am thinking K2 Shuksans, Dynafit TLT Vertical ST's, and Garmont Mega Rides. If any of you have any of these products and would care to give input/advise it would be appreciated.

Does BD have more than one type of attachment system? The reason I ask is I have been renting randonee gear and have noticed that the two sets of BD skins I have rented had two different types of attachments for the tail. I liked the rubber strap camming attachment better. What is your guys opinion on which BD skin to get the glidelites, or ascension, and which attachment is best?

Ya that was him. How do you think the ice will be doing by Sunday, Monday?

Hey Chris, didn't I sell my ergos to a friend of yours?

9 pages! 9 pages! come on guys. Surely this isn't that important. I don't even have the time to even think about reading this, as a matter of fact why am I even...

Local 1912(King 40) here

You live or work in Quincy right?

Sooo, basically it all looked awesome and your just trying to keep the riff raff out for the upcoming cold snap?!!

I'll try to video the high power rifle ice removal and post it!

My wife and I went over to Banks on Wednesday the 27th. The temp @ 1100 was 25F, Our plan was to climb the punchbowl. I even brought a .22 along to shoot down the ice. Upon our arrival a couple from Idaho just beat us there. Talked to the guy a little and told him that I had a gun to shoot down the ice, he looked at me like I was crazy. So there went our plan for the punch bowl. As far as deathcicles, there are more than normal, and two large ones over the right side, not even a question as to wether it was unsafe to climb without shooting down the ice. BTW the ice looked awesome and phat on the punch bowl. So, we headed to electric ave; nothing in, salt n pepper good at top, Zenith looked awesome if you rap in or don't mind a mixed start on manky rock. Then we headed back to see if the party was off the punch bowl just in time to see a rather large cicle break off and explode all over the route. Luckily the party was just pulling there ropes and barely missed a beating. We'll head bakc next week with an earlier start and a high powered rifle to take care of the cicles.

Definately want a 4X4 in the ghost, saves a lot of headache. As far as routes, I agree that THOS is a great route, and it does have some longer and steeper pitches farther up the drainage. I don't think it's the climbing so much as the surroundings that make the THOS route a great experience. Check out valley of the birds in the ghost as well. Professor Falls is a great intro to canada ice, big, blue, plastic, reliable, with steps to provide relief and chain anchors. Just get an early start for Professor. Grotto falls if it's in, is also a good warm up climb with a cool approach.