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Bigtree

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Posts posted by Bigtree

  1. Yellowhead heli says...

     

    "A lift to the Dome will run you at least $514 per person ($414 per person if you have 4 or more) based on last years pricing. We have seen a significant jump in fuel prices so there may well be a fuel surcharge on that price by August, but that will get you in the ballpark.

     

    Flights depart either directly from our hangar (4 km north of Valemount) or from the Dennison Gravel Pit (approx 1 km east of the Mt. Robson Park Info Centre)."

     

     

  2. Thanks for the quick feedback folks. I appreciate it.

     

    @ Feck - You gave me some good advice last year regarding your descent through the ledges years ago and it was helpful. 15 mins or so traversing under the seracs at the end a long day in August is cause for concern, at least for me. Hence me looking at the Kain Face rte.

     

    I've hiked into Berg lake twice over the years and up to Snowbird Pass and scrambled adjacent peaks once, so have a good feel for the pedestrian approach. Only have a 7 day window though and am trying to deal with the conundrum of making a mountain obsession fit my middle aged plans. Of course its not ideal, but that's life with office job, mortgage, kid blah, blah blah.

     

    @ Robpatterson5 - $400 per head seems about right. Yamnuska is a good suggestion. They do guided trips there all the time, so might be able to work in something. I also have an email out to Yellowhead Heli and am pretty sure they have a hanger and could fly out of Tete Jaune Cache.

     

    @ Glassgowkiss - Innovative suggestion re: bikes, but there's only so much stuff 3 guys can cram in/on a Subaru wagon.

     

    Cheers.

  3. 2010 plans didn't come together as I had hoped and I'm still sufficiently wigged out at the thought of traversing under the seracs along the Schwartz Ledges to consider that rte as strictly a Plan B option. Am instead pondering the notion of flying into base of Kain Face on N/E side and heading up from there. Would appreciate hearing from anyone who has tried it; particularly with respect to rough cost and flight logistics. 3 guys and gear at this stage. First week of August. Would prefer to fly in from around visitors centre as we'll need to pick up permits and a car on the boot out from Berg Lake.

     

    Thanks.

  4. iClimb, I've climbed it twice in recent years via southern approach; once solo in June with an overnight at the Lunch Counter and again with some friends as a day trip from Cold Springs in drier July conditions. Although the route is admittedly a rather pedestrian affair free of drama and hazards (aside from weather), its a classic coastal volcano and great fun - especially on skis. Last time I was on top I even had a couple of military jets do a low fly past and wing dip to say hello - I was tickled pink.

     

    Just get out and climb it and when you get to the top you can decide whether to try Rainier to the north, Helens to the west or Hood to the south and they hatch a responsible plan to tackle one or all of them.

     

    Mt%20Adams%20route%20for%20hammer1.jpg

     

  5. Trip: Vancouver Island Ice - Newman-Foraker rte. - Mt. Arrowsmith

     

    Date: 2/7/2011

     

    Trip Report:

     

    I've been wanting to climb this route for some time and the right conditions and partner finally combined to make it happen. We did it over a leisurely but cold 4 hrs from base of climb to top and back down (could cut that down by 1/3 by a more energetic and efficient team). Grade is ~ alpine ice 3/150m/3 ~ 45-50m pitches and a little simulclimb finish as we topped out.

     

    Route and rough belay stations (this photo was taken previous by someone else a few seasons back and there was significantly less snow this time around):

     

    Newman%20-Foraker%20Rte%20%28Henrik%20Hinkkala%20Photo%29.jpg

     

    Looking up at the start of the climb:

     

    008.JPG

     

    ~ 1/3 way up cruxy first pitch:

     

    173045_10150381189290136_583460135_17111856_3722336_o.jpg

     

     

    Looking down from second belay:

     

    012.JPG

     

     

    Approaching 3rd belay (west ridge of Mt. Arrowsmith in background):

     

    022.JPG

     

     

     

     

    Gear Notes:

    Ice tools, 1 - 60m 9.9 mm rope and 12 screws, slings and a warm gloves/jacket.

     

    Approach Notes:

    3 1/2 hr drive from Victoria. Parked at 2nd switchback on Pass Main. 1 1/2 hr approach hump up to base of climb.

  6. So, I was loading up my coveted 40L WorkSack Sunday morning at the car park for an ice climb when one of the two tie down straps for the top pouch parted ways where it was sewn to the edge of the pouch. The pack wasn't that full but with the rope on top of the sack I was pulling the straps down with some force to clip the strap.

     

    Called CiloGear this morning from the office to make arrangements to send the top pouch in for repairs from Vancouver Island where the pack and I live. Graham answered, we had a short discussion after which he took my name/address and said to forget the repair and that he'd ship me a replacement out by days-end. Impressive when the owner of the company offers this kind of stellar customer service. I'll be buying more packs from this outfit in the future for sure.

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