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Honestly, i would be concerned with the lower (crux) pitches as well as getting onto the rock from the glacier. after finishing the lower part of the route the upper slab will be more of a cardio workout than a mental one. great route!

As per your SOP you really feel that you speak for the community at large. Since your so concerned about washington why don't you come up and walk your talk. This is the second time i have said this to you. I am glad you are not a cop.

the last pitch of Mod. times is awesome. don't forget to stop at Baby and get a good laugh watching all the visiting "hard core" climbers getting spanked on a 5.6 ow Gelsa- overhanging 5.4! Broken Sling .8+ Easy Rider .9 this an 11 pitch traverse that finishes on Gelsa and that stays dry in light rain Grand Central .9-

i have it in digital format but i will only give it to you if you allow me to touch your hand and then you sign a baseball for me. pm me if your interested. cheers, hanzie p.s. i would also be interested in an uncensored version of that video if available.

see? that wasn't so hard was it? being a responsible moderator. congratulations!

i did misunderstand you i have a te76 that i have broke 3/4 inch bits with $$$! i just feel that if you are breaking bits hand drilling you are hitting it too hard but it sounds like you already know that you didn't really take me literally on the weaving and bobbing did you??? it wasn't literal, it was a joke. and i wouldn't have responded to the post in the first place if i didn't have experience hand drilling on lead myself.

there's that same non professional ethic i am referring to. three posts into it and YOU are the one engaged in a pissing match, just couldn't resist the little comments could you? it's fun isn't it? i don't think you are realizing your true potential as a mod there whitey. go tell mommy? judging by that comment you must still live with yours. BTW i gave a bunch of "techie" info before YOU and i got into a pissing match. seems like we were getting opinions from several different viewpoints until YOU came along. thanks for keeping the streets safe, keep up the good work

did you really need to use profanity? next time i think it would be a bit more appropriate for you as a moderator to show a bit more restraint. you should be striving for proffessionalism. maybe next time try it like a pro, like this------- " hi guys! i noticed with a slight twinge of dismay that people are starting to get a little "heated" around here. we can't have that on this type of family website. so let's all take a deep breath and remember we are all friends in the end! YAYYYYYYYY!!"

YAADFPOS that's for sure

i've never even broke a 1/4 inch bit let alone a 5/16. bent them though. if you've "shattered" two then maybe YOU should start weaving and bobbing instead of being scared and overzealous. also, you say carbide tipped as though this makes the shaft of the bit stronger, wrong.

do not hit the drill while twisting, twist then hit. doing that causes the bit to get stuck more, or break if they are weaker bits. don't buy it. the human hand is not turning the bit with enough force to keep it moving accross the rock during the point of impact it must take you 45 minutes to drill one hole. believe me when you're a 150 smacks into it you're hitting the drill while twisting it. i've never gotten a bit stuck and i certainly haven't noticed it dulling faster. as for breaking a bit with a hand drill... you would have to seek out the shittiest steel possible. iv'e never seen someone break a bit hand drilling, maybe if you fell on it or something strange like that. i just start hitting and twisting, weaving and bobbing, never had problem to date.

here you go, a piece of the puzzle... go buy drill and hammer, take it to rock, while twisting drill with wrist hit back of drill with hammer, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat...FOREVER or until desired depth is reached, which will be determined by the bolt length. at first you may wonder which will come first! a good way to check your progress is to remove the nut and washer from the bolt and put it in backwards to check your depth and then pull it back out. do not drill your hole too shallow or you risk bottoming the bolt out before it's fully embedded. make the hole a little deeper than you think so as to accomodate any dust that may sit in the back of the hole, which can also lead to premature bottoming of the bolt.all bolts have minimum embedment requirements to reach full strength so don't short yourself! some people think that you should not over drill holes, but in rock it's fine. that whole line of thinking comes from the construction industry where there is often the concern of drilling completely through a concrete slab, some of which can be as thin as 4", or into radiant floor heating systems. if you have a power drill(or alot of excess energy to burn with a hand drill) i would advise overdrilling the hole by roughly an inch so that in the event that the bolt does not expand properly ( a "spinner") you can simply pull the nut off, pound the bolt all the way in and cover it with a two part epoxy. while the epoxy is still wet you can take rock particles and embed them into it. if done properly, you will immediately have a very difficult time of locating where it was, which is a good thing. anyway... so now that you have your hole just how you like it it's time to pound your bolt into it!!! if you are using a wedge anchor back the nut off until it is just below flush with the top of the bolt and put the bolt through the hanger and pound it in until the nut and hanger come tight up against the rock. tighten the nut. generally, from the back of the nut i like to tighten the nut down until three threads are showing behind the nut, inotherwords three rotations of the nut. however, sometimes the nut will require a few extra turns to get the wedge to seat properly. look, just make sure the fucker's tight all right? bolts have torque requirments but i don't foresee climbers anytime soon carrying around torque wrenches with them, i sure as hell don't. a 5 piece is a bit more hassle free in my opinion, more cash though. for these it's really as simple as pounding in the bolt and making sure it is tight. i know this all seems very complicated and technical but i assure you it is about as hard as changing out the bag on a vaccuum cleaner. this is certainly not an order but rather a bit of advice... don't be a fucking moron with your new found toy. you will have to decide what that means for yourself because i sure the hell am not getting into a bolting ethics debate. that having been said i think MOST climbers agree on two things- don't bolt cracks and stay the fuck off existing lines. i promise that if you do either of these things and attach your name to it you will regret it. this is how the process goes- think think think bolt.

wonder bar, grey 2 part epoxy. got my fifth ascent. you will never even know they were there unless you look really hard. just for the record, i love sport climbing and regularly clip bolts, this was flat out wrong. first time i've aided the corner.... on BOMBER gear.

today a friend and i climbed centerfold and were both shocked and quite pissed to find three brand new, shiny 3/8in bolts with the dust still on the rock next to the beginning thin corner crack of the final pitch. i find this to be an absolute affront to climbing in general, the crack is OBVIOUSLY protectable with small cams tcu's nuts or whatever the fuck else you want to throw in there! i have climbed the route four times and i think number five will be this weekend to choppety chop!!! dicks.

walk your talk tough guy