coldiron

Yes, I thought the pro looked pretty decent, particularly with stubby screws for the steep ice. I also saw lots of placements for small cams(esp. C3 or TCU 000-1, and KB's. I don't tend to use pickets, but I think you could use one pretty much anywhere in the snow sections in the current conditions.

Trip: Dragontail - NE Couloir Solo Date: 12/5/2008 Trip Report: On Friday, I set out to climb the NE Couloir of Dragontail after reading the good TR's recently. I had read that the climb was now out, but guessed that it could be good after a few days of freeze-thaw last week. The bottom part of the climb was firm neve, with solid sticks when I needed them, mostly straightforward snow climbing, with a short, trickier mixed step. I carried 70m double ropes, a rack of 5 cams, 7 nuts, 4 pins, and 3 ice screws, along with a Silent Partner for self belay, biners, and slings. This made for a pretty heavy pack, but I didn't want to epic high up on this thing with only myself to whine to. As I got into the steeper mixed steps I continued to feel solid. Soon the more difficult part of the climb approached, and I began to see more and more ice. Now I was making good sticks in plastic ice with occasional fun mixed moves. I was so deep into the groove of climbing, I never felt the need to pull out the rope until I got to a steep rock step at the top with ice too thin to take my picks. I pulled the rope out for 20 feet and placed a thin knifeblade and 1 cam, then realized the climbing was more solid than it looked from below, so I stashed the rope and continued on. I rapped off at dark and proceeded to have a slight epic coming down Asgaard Pass. I never realized there are so many opportunities to cliff out on that slope. I wasted lots of energy climbing back up to find a better route again and again. Once I reached the lake I thought my troubles were over. This is when I found out why the standard approach stays high on the boulder field. After an hour or so of wrestling with killer brush in the dark, and gettting turned around by apartment-sized boulders, I finally stumbled on to the trail. The mindless slog back to the car was tempered by the realization that I had just experienced one of those rare days(for me at least) where every stick is good, and you can climb unroped with no fear or hesitation. Gear Notes: I soloed, so use gear list from last TR. However, now you could use stubby screws in the upper sections. Approach Notes: No snow on the approach. Don't stash stuff at the base of the climb. It is a pain in the ass to get back to when descending the pass!

If anyone wants to climb this tomorrow, call me at 509-475-4056, I'll be in the mountains, so no email. -Scott

Nice pics, LePiston!

Damn, that Alpax looks pretty sweet. I like the retractable pinky rest, and the pick and head look a little more aggressive than the Venom. Nice find!

I still need an alpine partner Thursday and Friday. I'm leaving for the cascades in the morning, so call me on my cell phone. If you have another objective in mind, I'm open to other routes and areas, I'd just really like to get out Thursday and Friday. Scott 509-475-4056

Thanks, I searched and found a TR you wrote about the route. It sounds pretty good. The aiding around the cornice sounds interesting!

Thanks for the reply. Did the sticks feel secure on the steep ice steps, or did it feel like you were using a classic straight alpine axe? Were you using Tech or Classic picks?

Yeah Roger's Pass might be the best option, but I'm down to 2 days off now. Is there good snow closer to home? I hear that Nelson is hurting for snow, as is Kootenay Pass.

I saw that the Highway is still open and I've got a bunch of free time in the next 2 weeks. Any suggestions for Alpine ice/mixed routes that might be in good shape?

I'm going to head over Thursday and Friday, then take a longer trip Dec. 12-17. If Dragontail's NE Couloir or TC is in I'd like to hit those. I'd also like to check out North Face of Mt. Maude, New York Gully on Snoqualmie, or Ice Cliff Glacier if any of those are in condition.

I have one 50 cm BD Venom hammer, and am considering buying a Venom adze for a lightweight pair of tools I can use on moderate alpine routes and ski mountaineering trips. I'll run the Tech picks on both. On ski trips I often run into sections that call for two tools, but I am primarily out skiing and don't want the extra weight of my regular ice tools. Sometimes I don't necessarily need to take the technical route, it's just more fun; but I'm done with being gripped in sketchy terrain with an ultralight Camp axe in one hand and a BD Whippet in the other. Has anyone used the venoms for moderate ice? Do you think the weight savings are worthwhile? Are there other tools that are significantly better than the Venoms for ice, but will still function as an alpine axe (plunge and self arrest) and weigh around a pound?

Has anyone had a look at Chair Peak recently? I'm wondering if there is any decent ice on the North or East Face routes.

Yeah, I have a huge list of routes in the area i'd like to do. from what I hear there is not much in right now. have you heard of anything else?

I think the NE couloir will be in good shape with the forecast of cold nights this week. -Scott coldiron12@yahoo.com 509-475-4056

I'm going in search of good climbing and hopefully a peek at the sun this Wednesday through Friday. If anyone else wants join in- pm me. I'm thinking Alpine, but I'd go for cragging somewhere if Vantage or anything else is sunny.

pm sent

I have Thurs. and Friday off, and NWS is calling for cold weather for the next three days. Are you down with checking it out later in the week?

Thanks for the update. NWS is calling for lows in the 20's for the next three days, and I'm hoping that's enough to bring it back into condition. From what you saw on Sunday, do you think 3 or 4 days of cold weather will do it?

I'm interested in climbing the NE Couloir later this week(Wed. or Thurs.). The forecast looks good, I'm just wondering what the weather has been over the past week. Any observations? How much snow is on the approach? I am looking for a partner too, so if you're keen to climb it, PM me.

Snoboy- no sandbagging here. All of you Rossland locals are rippin' skiers anyhow- give me a call when the snow flies. - Scott

pm sent

] McCall is a ways for regular trips, but I'd sure like to get down there once this year if the skiing's that good. Any beta or partner info would be appreciated.

Sounds good Snoboy. What's your schedule like?

I like skiing Red and Whitewater. I just figure my chances of finding partners for the cascades are pretty good on "cascade climbers". Basically, I'll drive a ways for good partners. I'm solo quite a bit as it is and that limits my terrain options somewhat. Lots of people in Spokane seem to have the bad habit of working 9 to 5, So if you've got weekdays off- hit me up for some turns.