jeremyl

I left a pair of QD's on the anchor of Kamikaze/May Day Sunday morning. Was sharing the route and went to do another climb while the other group climbed. Went back and they were gone. 2 draws, red Helium and blue either helium or Omega JC's - BD dogbone. Would love to get them back. Climbed Sunday ~ 11a.

Anyone been up more recently? Hoping to run up Reid Sat AM and wondering if things are still too soft.

Thanks. Will be trackin on GPS too. Ranger Stn. said Killian TR is all snow. Is Divide Cr trail a better way in? Just going off Selected Climbs which says to use Killian (and dont get lost). Good on the water. Hopefully things are still closed up & stay quiet. Its been warm. But people went up last week apparently. Would love GPS tracks. Heading up in the morning from Ptown.

Any more info? (More recent info?) Might head up. Ranger said road to TH is now open. How obvious is the trail? Is there any running water at camp? Haven't been on that side before so any info is welcome!

Can I hijack - and ask when does the Adams Glacier route open up? I belive (unless you want a LONG slog) you wait for the road to open. Any word on when that will be? Wanted to hit it last year but it looked to be in kinda bad shape soon after the road opened.

Brian just reported on KATU that the 31yr old Brooke Colvin died in this accident. Condolences to her surviving husband Thad Stavin who was on the climb. http://www.katu.com/news/38010579.html It is unclear that they were up there that late. But from my experience this weekend I dont think the Sun is at all the only factor. Stuff was coming fown before sun-up. Its a gamble with these high temps and high winds. A deep shame that this gamble turned out as it did.

Conditions were not too bad, except the icefall. Which really wasnt that bad but it turned away ~2/3 climbers that got to the Hogsback. But everyone else did the old chute (or northside routes). These 3 did the Pearly Gates. I met them right as I was descending and they were heading over to the right. I was surprised when he (dont know if it was the injured guy or one of the others) said they were doing the Pearly Gates route. But he said he did it almost every weekend last year and seemed to know what he was getting into (In fact I asked for a TR as I would like to do the route if its in good shape. A little Ice wall makes for some fun). We heard and saw a ton of icefall all day from further right (Steel clifs and such) but I didnt see anything really come down the gates. They were still in the shadows. When I was down below Crater Rock I looked back and saw the team on the wall. For the rest of us climbers, the runells that you can see in some posted (elsewhere) picks had some occasional icefall. People were dropping down below these and making way to the old chute. There is a really nice boot path up the steaper 1/2 of this if you head more left (more towards WCR than the old chute proper - which seemed more exposed to icefall to me). The ridgeline from there to the summit is not too bad. I doubt much more than a dozen summited although much more headed up. I got to the Hogsback at 7:30 because I wanted to be there before the sun warmed things up. A friend went up Friday and didnt get there until 10am and bailed because too much was coming down. If you plan to climb I would say get there early. It is crazy warm up there. Fortunatly dispite what you would think from being in town, there was no wind to speak of, and with the groomers running up Palmer in the AM, I had a spectacular 23min ride down to the car Hope the injured climber heals well. Only talked to the one guy for a couple minutes, but they seemed like very nice guys and great climbers. Frankly I am glad that there was not more bad news from the day. While a lot of people (wisely) baled on the route, a lot did not and crap was coming down. I got hit in the hand by ~1" ice when traversing under the fall line, but a big piece came a little closer than I liked.

Thanks for the TR. Looks like Adams GL might not be in the best shape this year... Was thinking of going up this weekend but the two reports I have found (yours and one other from same time frame) dont really inspire. I hate mosquitos too. Anyone been up in recent days???

Nice TR. Thanks! We are heading up in a couple weeks. How much of what pro did you take? Looks like just a couple peaces for the bowling alley is all that is "needed".

Very cool pics. We are heading in for a 5 day trip ourselfs. Hope the rain stops in time. I will leave the ipod in the car I guess. How are the conditions up top? I am planning on taking minimal rock gear and a 50M rope to rap off... is this sufficient?

FYI for those going up soon. Climbed on Thursday. Weather was great, except it was very windy at Timberline. This turned some groups away. Hiking into a 20+ MPH headwind up to the top of Palmer wasnt really bad. After that the wind died down a lot. Snow was very consolidated so crampons went on soon after Palmer (wouldnt have been bad to have them on up to there). At the hogsback the first guys up were coming down. Said the chute was pretty icy. Some people were bailing as we went up, but we went up (nice and slow - ice tool would be handy, but crampons and an axe did the trick). Summit was perfectly calm. Wont say it will still be that way. I think the winds are dying down on Sunday (I will be at Meadows ). People have said the chute was the worst they ever saw it, including climbers with 15+ and 80+ ascents!

'Schrund was open when we went on the 24th. We jumped over it, but others went around. Gonna go see again Thursday. Maybe we will see you up there, Sandpounder. Let us know what you find, Kioti. I would rather not lug up any gear we dont need.