spotly
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Posts posted by spotly
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My Garmont Towers haved served me well over the last several years though a few winter ascends left my toes somewhat cold whenever I'd stop for too long. I figured they'd be plenty good enough for a run up Rainier in June but mt partner, who's been up it several times insists I'd be better served with plastics. I can't afford to pay for plastics for a single trip so I'd be stuck with whatever REI rents, which are the Asolo AFS Evoluzione. These things look like they'd make for a miserable approach. Anyone here used theses? How about the Garmonts - good enough for June up Rainier (wheather dependent of course)?
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I'm looking to pick up a lighter weight parka than the one I have now. The Vapor looks like it's got the same features I'm used to but at only 16 ounces. Anyone familiar with this one? I'd prefer a removable hood but I can always compensate for that. Any better options in an ubber-light (yet comfy warm) down? I prefer a little more puffy than not but if it's too extreme, I wouldnt be out anyway - at least not on purpose anyway. I have a Montbell inner parka that I use to supplement with when it gets too cold. I'm not interested in synthetics. Thanks
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Yes - nice link. Thanks. Thanks too Steve. The spouse wants a snowshoe and I want a summit, thought this would be a good compromise
Guess we'll head over to Graham instead. Still haven't figured out how to stay upright with sliding sticks on my feet. -
Anyone know how close I can get to the TH this time of year? Any space for a tent or two at the TH or thereabouts? SummitPost says virtually no avi risk on the route because it stays on a ridge most of the way - true?
Thanks.
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I've laid mine out on my walk and sprayed it down (with just a hose - not a pressure washer) when I got mud on it once. I think I'd avoid the drive due to chemicals though.
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You've continued to imply that anyone who would consider using a drop loop is an idiot. Let me remind you that the OP was not about systems, something that has been pointed out to you several times...it was about pulley efficiency. If I had a 6 inch length of rope that I used as an aid for discussing how a rope is made, would you think that idiotic too - after all, who the hell could possibly climb on a 6 inch length of rope.
You think that discussing something here implies that the same discussion would take place on the mountain!? Then you go on to say the "One should think about it before the crap hits the fan, talk it out in the group first." WTF - it's like listening to Tweedle Dee and Tweedle Dum!
At least there aren't many real glaciers in Washington State for you guys to fall into because if you were on a rope team of 3 you would be trying to set up 3 different systems and by the time you got it figured out, the guy would be frozen to death in the hole. This is a very real concern, not just sarcasm. One should think about it before the crap hits the fan, talk it out in the group first.You've made a few good points as it relates to the OP but then you go off on this totally unrelated tangent. Try some ginko or something for that lack of focus.
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Very nice! Great pics of the route. So how do you really feel about the road slog?
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Wasn't a question about the system. The best system to use is based on the situation. This happens to be one possible system and using it as an example for discussion regarding pulleys shouldn't lead you to think that it's the only solution that the questioner is aware of. If the diagram is uncomfortable for your viewing though, feel free to upload your own and we can use it for the discussion....about pulleys.
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"One downside to this system is that there is no ratchet mechanism as shown." I was gonna draw that in at the #1 point but I figured...let the stick-man fall - he's not pulling his weight anyway
Good info from the thread. Thanks.
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Good points. Especially regarding the prusik tending issue. Yes, I was referring to the little wheel. I've looked at the Revolver and I think that makes sense as a second pully, especially with the dual functionality. Thanks
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Using a drop-loop 'Z' pully system, if you had one pully, where would you place it to get the best benefit? How about if you had two? I carry just one and have never had to use it but always assumed that lowering it to the victim was the way to go but area 1 in the pic below seems like it would see more friction. Do most here carry more than one? Any particular brand that you prefer? The $3.95 nylon Petzl seems like an "ok" 2nd pully option but I've read they tend to break - any experience with actual use of one of those?
Thanks
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Thanks G-Spotter! Does the traverse to the base of the route start across the rubbly looking bench midway down and to the left of the glacier or does it start lower down and around the left of the little buttress at the bottom of the ridge?
That's a great looking area! I'm hoping to get in a few climbs in Canada this year - they've been stagnating on my list for too long. Got Bugaboo Spire scheduled and looking at Sir Donald too. Now this comes along and...guess it never ends, which is a good thing
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Looking to head down there later in the month or early March....if I can just find one of those killer deals on flight
Any suggestion? Wife wants to play in town while myself and an as yet uncommited climbing parter play on the rock. -
Well, no luck...anywhere. So now I'm needing to find something else. Any suggestions? I'd prefer 100% (or close) nylon in a heavier material. Something that comes in odd sizes (33" waist) and has the gussetted crotch.
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"Though ridge steepens with elevation, no rope required." Is it mainly 3rd and 4th with just a move or two of 5.6?
That's a nice looking area!
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Thanks G. That's probably all we need to know but I am curious about the guide book you mentioned. A Google search for variations of that title didn't bring up anything that looked correct. Is it still in print?
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Can someone here point me to any info on the NE Buttress route on Gimli? Domo.
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Anyone know where there might be a stash of the discontinued Prana Voyager pants? Size small.
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"it was a full 10 inches shorter than advertised when erect."
Maybe it was cold out.
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Carl on SEWS
Carl on Bonanza Peak
Carl on Stuart WR
Tim in upper Phelps Creek Basin (Dumbell trip)
Tim on Dumbell Peak
Lloyd on Sahale Peak
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Nothing like a mild day out to burn off the rest of that Thanksgiving turkey.
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Thanks Bug.
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Can the west ridge be climbed with a 30M and a skinny 30M pull line without too much pain?
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We finally got up this yesterday...part way. We needed the practice so decided to split it up. The traverse was fun and good placements from .3 to .5 with one 3". I think the small tricams would have been handy (forgot them at home). Couldn't get past the roof without pounding in something and with the sun going down, we decided to bail while there was enough light to gather our gear. I think we'll try again when the rock is warmer and the days are longer. A fun diversion from an otherwise boring weekend.
[img:left]http://www.inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/WhiteRock/WhiteRock_001.JPG[/img]
[img:left]http://www.inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/WhiteRock/WhiteRock_002.JPG[/img]
[img:left]http://www.inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/WhiteRock/WhiteRock_003.JPG[/img]
[img:left]http://www.inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/WhiteRock/WhiteRock_004.JPG[/img]
[img:left]http://www.inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/WhiteRock/WhiteRock_005.JPG[/img]
[img:left]http://www.inlandnwadventures.com/Adventures/WhiteRock/WhiteRock_006.JPG[/img]
Garmont Towers or plastics?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
I wondered about the crampons too. Both sets are strap-on. I'll look into the supergaiter. Sounds like a good backup plan that'll let me plan on the Towers either way. Thanks.