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Posts posted by spotly
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I like it. I am going to try that out next time. Great solution.
I've used it a few times. Be mindful of where the biner will travel when you pull. It's easy to get it caught up in a crack.
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I can place some gear with you at Minne this Thur at 3:15. If you have time and the weather permits, we could do a route or two as well.
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WHat packs and boots have you seen wear out so soon? (that way we can avoid them! )
Granted, I use this strictly for backpacking/hiking but since you asked....As far as a light pack that I've had problems with, the Montbell Versalite 50. I took one through the Enchantments last year and had a few issues. When I packed the lid compartment only barely too tightly, the seam ripped out way too easily and took a quick stitch job to put back together. Then at Colchuck Lake, the plastic corner of a freeze dried meal cut a largish slice in the fabric. Then just before heading up the pass, the buckle snapped off as I tightened the belt.
That said, it also happens to be the most comfortable pack I've used. I've since learned how to treat it more gently, pack it correctly and to carry a sil-nylon repair kit. For $130 and weighing only 2.5 pounds, if I get a few more years out of it, I'll consider it worth it. I'll use my heavier Gregory for climbing but this is ok for backbacking.
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I see NEB of Goode listed a few times. I might have a chance to do that one this year. What really stands out about it?
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i guess we dont see eye to eye on this one. its like saying that you cant park your car out side of your home for more than 24 hrs. although it doesnt belong to the thief they are still capable of breaking in and taking it. is that ethical?
Actually, it would be like parking your car in the middle of the street.
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Thanks. I took a scrubber to the rusty spots and there was some pitting underneath so I had a shop take that out. The few black (rust?) spots on the shaft probably go pretty deep so I'm going to leave those alone - maybe see if there's a wood cleaner than can pull it out.
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It's a trade-off for sure. But a free camping area there will draw the people that bring the needles. Better to forego the camping and have a clean area to climb in. Vantage isn't any further from Seattle than it is from Spokane and I'm willing to drive there for a day if I wasn't risking a needle in my ass or feces on my tennies. As it is, there's much better climbing closer to Spokane.
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Fence it all off with a small-gate access. Prohibit camping and put a crapper further in, which is maintained via a gated access road. That would keep the concert goers out - maybe.
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Anything in particular that makes the Lowe/Bryne versions better? Since we're on the subject..I've used my a lot but have never fallen on one nor used one for aid. Are they very difficult to clean once weighted?
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Lowell and Dane,
Have you maintained those in that condition - did you have any polishing done on them? I have one that that has a few spots of rust that I'd like to get removed. I'm sure there will be some pitting under them. Plus, it's left a small black spot on the bamboo, just below the head - not sure if that'll come off. I can leave the spot on the wood alone but I don't want the rust to get any worse so thinking about taking it in to get it polished. Any suggestions?
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I don't think I'd go as far as to say dumb and trendy - wouldn't want to risk the public condemnation
But the thing does have enough limitations that I wouldn't see its usefullness for most of what I do. Maybe in the gym but heck, it's only 50 feet from the curb to the gym door so I'd suck it up and carry my "heavy" ATC that far...with some help.
As far as a biner brake, useful to know but I don't wouldn't choose it over my ATC given the choice. No doubt some people can rig it up fast enough but I'd cause an epic rapping a long multipitch with one.
If there was some kind of edge it had over a regular ATC, I'd reconsider.
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Ahhh. I guess I was trying to multitask again. Thought I read Ingalls Lake.
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Seems like the limited use would turn most people away. If having the extra slot ever starts bothering me, I'll just put duct tape over it
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Haven't been up there yet this year but I'm anxiously waiting to hear a report as well. I climbed Fortune Peak up there on June 14th of last year and ran into snow on the trail within a half mile. I'm sure the Longs Pass trail was ok but the trail up to Esmeralda Basin was solid snow. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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I have a few that are ready to be retired. They are more stretched out so I'd think if anything, there'd be less stretch on a fall. I haven't noticed more stretch on mine.
Kevino, could it be the weight of the climber has increased over the years rather than the elasticty of the rope? Just asking
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Are the campgrounds along the creek open/requiring fees?
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Any updates? Also, are the routes on Icicle Buttress free of snow/dry?
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But what is BMW? They are diversifing away from high quality cars?
"Big Malfunctioning"...fingers, of course
Anyone used the Montbell Alpine light parka or jacket?I picked one up about a month ago (jacket). Very warm and not much heavier than the inner jacket and compacts pretty small. It has elastic at the waist and I've read others mention that it "rides" up sometimes. I haven't had that problem yet but have only used it on a few flat hikes so far.
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I like the BM stuff personally. Their inner pants are pretty light too, so they usually get tossed into the bag if there's a chance for an unplanned bivy.
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Thanks for the links. That's an excellent thread on rock climbing .com.
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Pearly Gates is not really doable anymore as an "easy route".
111, what's changed and when? Just curious. We did it in Feb a few years ago and getting to the gates then seemed kinda thin for an "easy" route. The gates were pretty cool - blue ice in the left one and steep powder in the right. Of course, we didn't have any previous knowledge to judge the route by; just figured anyone trying it in heels or with a dog would have to have been an idiot
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This is about like asking who you should poke for your first time, ask 100 dudes get 100 answers, but the best chance for success in either case would be to go with one that is "easy" and that is not too bad to look at.
I came from a small town, where the answer was the same no matter who you asked
My first trad lead was Midway. I thought the little traverse in the middle of the second pitch was lacking in pro but easy enough. The Tooth would be a better option though - plenty of pro and solid stances.
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I'll take you old Chouinard Piolet...$50?
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Size 9 (42.5). Run a bit skinny in the toe box. Lots of tread left.
$60 + shipping.
ultralight ice axe?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
I like my Raven Pro. It's pretty light and performs nicely. I also have a Raven Ultra. I've used it a few times and now it hangs from the gear hook downstairs. It feels way TOO light to me and the spike at the end of the shaft is poorly designed - it jams up wih snow and doesn't give easy penetration, though that's partly due to the weight as well. I'm sure it has it's place somewhere.