Trip: The Tooth - Standard
Date: 5/31/2014
Trip Report:
The winter approach is still in ok condition. Snow was firm enough early morning but post holed a fair about through the basin on the way out.
No big plug at the top of Pineapple Pass and there was even a nice tunnel to crawl through (or go over). There's still a fair amount of snow on the back side of the pass so we were forced to go lower than normal. No biggie though, since there were good steps.
The rock route was snow-free and dry.
Two single rope raps from the base of the rock got us back to mellower than normal snow in the basin. There's a bundle of webbing w/link on climbers left at the base of the first rap.
Fun day out and had the route to ourselves till the last rap. Sure got hot on the way out though...oi.
I twisted my leg up pretty bad post-holing between two boulders in the basin and now my knee is twice normal size. Doesn't seem to hurt though...unless I bend it too far.
I brought an ice ax and used it on the backside of Pineapple Pass. Partner did not and seemed to do fine.
I've used the Yates Rocker for years. For those who have used both, what are the significant differences between the Rocker and the Ushba Basic?
For weighting the rope, a 1 liter water bottle works well for me.
I'm curious where you got on and off the ridge at on the way up. We dropped directly towards the lake then over flattish snow and up the same gully you went up. From the summit me decided to try to stay on the ridge coming down and managed to downclimb the on ledges and hidden chimneys to a col then decided to drop from there towards the lake on steep scree and snow, bypassing much of the ridge.
Nice pictures. I agree - turtle.
We did the West Ridge route and wound up doing an unexpected bivy on the decent too. It was well below freezing and we had an emergency blanket that saved our butts...barely. I always carry an emergency bag now.
Yeah, that green valley sure is nice after something like that
Is anyone here familiar with Split Peak; east and a bit north of Kootenay Crossing? I'm looking for beta of any kind...approach, route, best nearby burger joints.